Changing the oil


guywwagner

GT Owner
Sep 22, 2005
69
Nazareth,Pa
I'm getting close to my first oil change and have a few questions. What is the p/n for the oil filter? What kind of oil are you using?It seems that availability is limited in the required 5w-50 grade.I will probably use Fords oil for the first change or two.Is there anything else I should know?
After looking at the bottom on the drive on lift I thought that adaptors to extend the lift points down 2" would be a great help.This would allow you use a frame lift and still be able to remove the belly pans.The jack points are all recessed slightly into the pans making it hard to use a frame lift at all.
Thanks in advance,
Guy
 

AMER SPD

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Oct 18, 2005
135
Northern California
Guy,

I haven't done mine yet but understand the following are the procedures, hope this helps:

Please be careful with the "o" ring on the cap. I understand it is only available when you purchase the cap & filter assembly.

Filter:
4G7Z-6731-AC or Motorcraft(FL2024)

Oil: Full synthetic
XO-5W50-QGT or WSS-M2C931-A spec oil

This should also be in your Owner's manual.

******************



Ford GT Oil Change Procedure

1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. Refer to section 100-02. Open the engine cover.
2. Remove the oil filter cap (6A832) from the oil filter adaptor. The used oil in the oil filter housing will automatically drain into the engine when the cap is loosened. The sealing o-ring will remain with the cap.
3. Remove the oil filter element from the housing and discard the element.
4. Install a new oil filter element and replace the cap. Ensure that the sealing o-ring is in place. Tighten the oil filter cap to 25Nm (18 lb-ft).
5. Raise the vehicle.
6. Remove the 21 bolts retaining the rear engine underbody panel (63106B08) and remove the panel. (illustration A0094313)
7. Remove the 19 bolts retaining the front engine underbody panel (115A74) and remove the panel. (illustration A0094314)
8. Remove the drain plug from the bottom of the oil reservoir and drain the oil reservoir. (illustration A0089407)
9. Remove the two engine oil sump / oil pan drain plugs and drain any residual oil from the engine. (illustration A0000058, with modification to point arrows to the drain plugs) .
10. Reinstall the engine oil pan / oil sump drain plugs. Tighten the plugs to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
11. Reinstall the oil reservoir drain plug and tighten to 25Nm (18 lb-ft). (illustration A0089407)
12. Lower the vehicle.
13. Refill the oil reservoir with 9.5 quarts of Motorcraft 5W-50 full synthetic oil (XO 5W-50 QGT) or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSS-M2C931-A..
14. Start the engine check for oil leaks.
15. Raise the vehicle.
16. Reinstall the front engine underbody panel and the 19 retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 7Nm (62 Lb-in). (illustration A0094314)
17. Reinstall the rear engine underbody panel and the 21 retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 7Nm (62 Lb-in). (illustration A0089407)
18. Lower the vehicle.
19. Check the oil sump level after running the engine. The level must be checked with 1 minute of shutting off the engine.
20. If the oil level is between the MIN-MAX marks on the dipstick, the oil level acceptable.
21. If the oil level in the sump is below the MIN mark, add oil in small amounts to raise the sump level to within the MIN-MAX range. Do not overfill the reservoir past the MAX mark on the dipstick.
 

barondw

GT Owner
Sep 8, 2005
1,109
When I get a chance I will post pictures. Be extremely careful of stripping the screw heads, its real easy to do.

What was not mentioned is that you will probably have to drive the GT onto planks to raise it sufficiently for the lift arms to fit under. Of course if you use a drive on you don't have to worry about this step.

Then get under the car and locate where the lift pads will be and remove those screws first. If you don't the two rear most under belly panels cannot be removed and you will have to lower the car to remove those screws hidden by the pads adding greatly to the time involved.

Also use the filter box to form into a funnel; when you drain the oil so it doesn't get on the frame.

An oil change can easily run 2 - 2 1/2 hours, especially the first time you do it.

Dave
 

barondw

GT Owner
Sep 8, 2005
1,109
In re-reading Amer Spd's excellent post I noticed two items that I would change:

After a bunch of prodding the garage I used was able to get his local Ford dealer to drill down into the GT parts listing and find the O ring by itself and the filter by itself. The O ring is also provided when you purchase a new oil filter cover but this is a very expensive part and not necessary to change at every oil interval.

I've changed the oil filter cover once and all other times just the filter and O ring.

No I don't have the individual part numbers but if I got them some one else can do the same. Get friendly with the parts guy at your Ford dealership.

Dave
 

guywwagner

GT Owner
Sep 22, 2005
69
Nazareth,Pa
oil change

I did mine yesterday.Yes, the O-ring does come with the filter.I would not try to change by sucking the oil out,the two plugs in the pan hold at least a quart of oil and there is no way to remove it other than remove the plugs.The belly pans take some time to remove but I believe it's well worth it.They collect lots of small stones and other debris that can only be removed by taking down the pans.There are also three different fastners used so some care must be taken with them.I found a small power steering pump leak when I got under there so that was worthwhile.I'll check the leak next time I change oil and if it's still leaking I'll change it myself.I can't imagine the problems that could be caused by someone not taking a lot of care just to R&R the pans.Also I torqued the fastners to 50in/lb,69 just seemed too tight.
Guy
 

FrankBarba

Permanent Vacation
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Oct 16, 2005
544
Harrisburg, PA
Oil Change almost complete. Now for a few questions?

1. The rubber O- ring seal? I believe that it is placed at the top of the Oil Filter housing screw? Top of of threads?

2. In my oil filter kit is also a brass washer? where does this go? The service manual is not real user friendly. I can not find where this piece goes.

3. Owners Manual states: 9.5 Quarts. When i drained oil pan i know 9.5 quarts did not come out. I use both drains to drain the oil. I proceeded to add new oil. Only took 8 quarts. What am i missing? Could 1.5 quarts be left in the sump? Where is the sump?
 

guywwagner

GT Owner
Sep 22, 2005
69
Nazareth,Pa
oil

You must remove three drain plugs.Two are on the oil pan and one on the dry sump tank.It took 10 quarts to fill mine,I can't imagine yours being much different.You do not use the small brass washer,It must be for another application. The O-ring goes in the groove above the threads on the oil filter cover.
Guy
 

FrankBarba

Permanent Vacation
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Oct 16, 2005
544
Harrisburg, PA
where is the dry sump? i can not find it in the service manual.
 

guywwagner

GT Owner
Sep 22, 2005
69
Nazareth,Pa
sump tank

Frank,
The tank is on the rh side to the car just to the right of the engine.It's the oil fill tank.The bottom has a plug that's identical to the ones on the pan.It sits up above the lower frame rail.It actually is in the manual,but you really have to search for it.I marked the pages but the book is at my shop.BTW the torque is 18lb/ft for all three plugs.
Guy
 

FrankBarba

Permanent Vacation
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Oct 16, 2005
544
Harrisburg, PA
Thanks....I guess i will re change my oil. So i actually only drained the oil sitting in the oil pan? Now at least i know the oil fill tank holds the additional 1.5 quarts.

Now for a question? How can an oil fill canister also double as a dry Sump.

What is the difference between a dry sump & wet sump?

i will sit back & listen.
 

escman

GT Owner
Nov 16, 2005
52
Long Island, NY
Always be carefull when lifting your vehicle and do not follow the factory dealer handbook as it pertains to the rear lift points. I unfortunatly damaged my belly pan in the rear because the chassis does not exist at the rear illustrated lift points. The best point to lift the gt in the rear is at the chassis index points (machine aluminum pads with a half inch hole in the center)
I use a piece of 2x4 with a rubber hockey puck on top right on the pad, you can still remove all the fasteners using this technique. Have Fun...
Pete. 1644
 

nota4re

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Feb 15, 2006
3,588
LEMANSZ, ROCMAN, and any other SoCal owners, please consider that you have an open invitation to stop by my home for an oil change. Last year, I completed the construction of a small shop attached to the home - perhaps the centerpiece being a BendPak 12k lb 4-post lift. The ramps are extremely low and I have never had to use anything more that a 2x12 place in front of a ramp to get an exotic up. The 4-post is ideal for the GT oil change (great planning, huh?) because you don't have to mess with jack points, etc.

I have the tools and the skills and you can choose to help or not, that's fine. It's a weird offer, I know, but if you want to have the car in a safe environment and be with it during minor surgery, you're more than welcome. I figure it's a way to get to know a few local owners.

If you have any tire balancing issues, we can take care of those too as I just installed a state of the art balancer.....

Here's a pic of the lift with an inferior vehicle...

 

MAD IN NC

Proud Owner/ BOD blah bla
Mark IV Lifetime
Feb 14, 2006
4,170
North Carolina
DON'T FORGET the PRIMING OF THE OIL SYSTEM!

from a nota4re post in another thread.....


PRIMING INSTRUCTION AFTER OIL CHANGE:
"After re-filling, and as a dry-sump system, it should be primed BEFORE starting the car. (I'll bet this step is skipped a lot.) You need to turn the key all the way to the "on" position, hold the accelerator to the floor, and crank the engine for a full 20 seconds. The car will not start as long as the pedal is floored. watch you Oil pressure gauge while doing this. You will see that it takes 10-15 seconds of cranking before the first sign of oil pressure."

Once you see oil pressure, stop cranking reset key and start car normally....
 

blkdiablo33

Active member
Nov 27, 2006
37
los angeles
great info.this is why thses forums are so important
 

Indy GT

Yea, I got one...too
Mark IV Lifetime
Jan 14, 2006
2,403
Greenwood, IN
Prime Procedure

What Mike points out above regarding dry sump engine priming after an oil change is absolutely correct. However, the listed steps MUST be FOLLOWED EXACTLY as he lists. Do each step in listed order....!
  1. Turn the key to the on positiion.
  2. Hold the accelerator pedal on the floor.
  3. Push the start button.
  4. Let it crank until you see oil pressure via the gauge in the dash.
Upon seeing pressure, let up on the start button, BEFORE you let up on the gas pedal.

Release the pedal and then start normally.
 

Empty Pockets

ex-GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Oct 18, 2006
1,239
Washington State
Thanks....I guess i will re change my oil. So i actually only drained the oil sitting in the oil pan? Now at least i know the oil fill tank holds the additional 1.5 quarts.

Now for a question? How can an oil fill canister also double as a dry Sump.

What is the difference between a dry sump & wet sump?

i will sit back & listen.

In a nutshell, a wet sump system is the std system used in most cars. The oil is contained in the oil pan directly under the engine & the oil pump pickup sits at the bottom of it (the pump itself is bolted to the bottom of the block). The 'pump pulls oil from the pan and gravity drains the oil back to the pan.

A dry sump system uses an external 'pump and oil tank. The dry sump pump has a pressure section and scavenge sections. The pressure section of each feeds oil to the block, while the scavenge sections pull oil from special pickups in the dry sump oil pan and return the oil to the external storage tank.
 

Indy GT

Yea, I got one...too
Mark IV Lifetime
Jan 14, 2006
2,403
Greenwood, IN
Excellent description, Empty!
Why does the GT have a dry sump system?
  1. Allows a lower engine placement (lower to the road surface) to lower overall car center-of-gravity which enhanses maneuverability. There is no need to have a large, deep "catch basin" below the engine to pool the drain-back oil and provide a well for the oil pump to sit in. Dry sump engines have shallow, flat pans that are not intended to store any oil. As soon as the oil drains into the shallow pan, the suction side of the external pump sucks it away to the external tank.
  2. Allowed the team to "fit" the engine in the rear engine compartment (lower to overall roof-tail shape and enabled Camilo to keep the beautiful car asthetics.
  3. Gets run-off oil and pooled oil away from the spinning crank journals and connecting rods and thus minimize crankshaft "windage". Windage robs engine power when the crank must splash the oil out of the way.
  4. Provides more consistent bearing lubrication under high "G" loads as in high speed cornering where the oil in a wet sump system would be sloshed to one side of the pan and could momentarily unport the oil pump pickup.
Disadvantages:
  1. Higer cost than wet sump.
  2. External pump is driven by a crankshaft belt which could fail and I am sure the engine monitoring system would shut down the engine immediately due to no oil pressure. Wet sump pumps are usually mechanically driven off the camshaft and little likelyhood of mechanical shafting failure.
 
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paul b

GT Owner
Nov 2, 2006
809
I've read two different methods of installing the oil filter, one on the filter assembly cap and one into the filter housing. I found putting the filter into the housing and then installing the cap easier. In the end does anyone think it makes a difference?
 

BlackICE

GT Owner
Nov 2, 2005
1,412
SF Bay Area in California
Disadvantages:
  1. Higer cost than wet sump.
  2. External pump is driven by a crankshaft belt which could fail and I am sure the engine monitoring system would shut down the engine immediately due to no oil pressure. Wet sump pumps are usually mechanically driven off the camshaft and little likelyhood of mechanical shafting failure.
Indy, you forgot one, more weight due typically from a larger oil capacity. Off course more oil can also be an advantage extending change intervals.
 

Indy GT

Yea, I got one...too
Mark IV Lifetime
Jan 14, 2006
2,403
Greenwood, IN
Thanks ICE

Absolutely correct, and thanks for the addition!

That is why this forum is so great!
Depth of knowledge from participants (owners) is unparalleled.