Accessory Drive Belt Tensioner BAD...."squealing banshee". ?
- Thread starter HOOKED ON GT
- Start date
No squeal....
I followed the manual on the oil pump belt loosening and removal.
Was tricky to get the belt off over the tensioner and back on.
I took a pic of the position pre removal of the tensioner and basically copied that on the return.
As it acts like a cam moving in/out to loosen/tighten and probably could go slightly tighter? but its tight now.
I watched its travel path and tracks perfect around main wheels (very slight wobble over tensioner)
Any thoughts/advice id take.
SA
I followed the manual on the oil pump belt loosening and removal.
Was tricky to get the belt off over the tensioner and back on.
I took a pic of the position pre removal of the tensioner and basically copied that on the return.
As it acts like a cam moving in/out to loosen/tighten and probably could go slightly tighter? but its tight now.
I watched its travel path and tracks perfect around main wheels (very slight wobble over tensioner)
Any thoughts/advice id take.
SA
Yeah... inconvenient but not so bad if you should happen to lose any other belt... but you don't want to lose the oil pump belt! Proper tensioning is important and is somewhat a PITA the first time. We always use a mirror in order to be able to see the alignment marks. See the image below. You need to use a hex key to rotate the cam and align the "gunsight". If you didn't do this, you may want to consider to take that $%^& cover back off and have another look just to make sure.
Regarding install/removal of the belt, it is always easier to remove that tensioner pulley completely - which then allows you to get the belt on and off without fear of damaging one of the ribs.
IIRC
If you rotate CW, the tang with the red scribe doesn't land on a machined boss on chain cover(I think it's the chain cover). If you rotate CCW like the stamped arrow denotes, the tang WILL rest on the machined boss. I think the manual states CCW but I don't have it in front of me. I wouldn't shy from nota4re though.
If you rotate CW, the tang with the red scribe doesn't land on a machined boss on chain cover(I think it's the chain cover). If you rotate CCW like the stamped arrow denotes, the tang WILL rest on the machined boss. I think the manual states CCW but I don't have it in front of me. I wouldn't shy from nota4re though.
Checked the oil belt tension setting.... it was very close but I made it sight up a bit better.
Also added some race tape to the heads for waaaay easier finger spinning in/out.
The cover is a poor design when used on the GT.... just a parts carry over I guess.
What would be ideal would be a 15mm cylinder thats welded on the head of the bolt, so it protrudes enough from the cover so your fingers can spin it in/out freely once loose
The up side would be that the T30 would seat easier if it has to enter a cylinder to "hook up"
Wish I had the fine welding skills to take it on.
I think you could get the cover on/off in 5 min.
Also added some race tape to the heads for waaaay easier finger spinning in/out.
The cover is a poor design when used on the GT.... just a parts carry over I guess.
What would be ideal would be a 15mm cylinder thats welded on the head of the bolt, so it protrudes enough from the cover so your fingers can spin it in/out freely once loose
The up side would be that the T30 would seat easier if it has to enter a cylinder to "hook up"
Wish I had the fine welding skills to take it on.
I think you could get the cover on/off in 5 min.
Attachments
HighHP
GT Owner
I replaced mine with hex head bolts. Far, far easier. Much, much easier. Oh and by far, much easier.
I bought some Allen wrench round heads with etched edges but they were not actually physically big enough to grab and twist I might investigate your idea but I’m not sure if you think it’s worth doing I can’t tell by your last post
2112
Blue/white 06'
HighHP
GT Owner
It was easier because your selection of sockets is much better to match up to the limited space. I seem to remember using a 1/4 inch socket to turn the screws. The socket also instantly fits onto the hex head.
2112
Blue/white 06'
HighHP
GT Owner
HighHP
GT Owner
This is from one of my posts a few years ago. Maybe it will be helpful.
- The oil pump belt cover is held with the same style screws used extensively throughout the car. These cover screws are a PIA to remove and install. I had to remove some through the cabin engine cover and some from the bottom. They can be replaced with hex bolts and washers from Fastenal. These replacements are very easy to install and remove all from the bottom. You can easily get a 3/8" torque wrench on all of them, from the bottom.
Fastenal Part No:
M6x25mm, Class 10.9, Bolt, Part No: 40653
Washer, Part No: 33075
- The screws used extensively on the car are a round head torx with washer. These cannot be turned by hand. For straight on access like the belly pans, they are easy to install and remove. However, any that are out of position, at an angle, around a corner, etc, are very hard to work with; the torx bit wants to wobble out. I have replaced many of these OEM screws with the following, for much, much easier removal/install. The original purists may groan over this, but, you can bag and mark the removed screws for future use. Also, all the out of position screws are mostly out of site anyway. You may want to have a box of 50 on hand so when you are tired of dealing with the OEM screws you are ready to go. Also, this will give you a few extra OEM screws that cost $6.00 - $10.00 each. If you shop on line for the following, you can get a box of 50 for $9.00.
Fastenal Part No:
M6x25mm - 17mm washer, Class 9.8, Part No: 0162790 - This works most of the time
M6x25mm - 24mm washer, Class 9.8, Part No: 0162791 – Some places the OEM washer is not quite big enough and this works better
The only drawback to these is when a plastic part is under the integrated screw washer, it may tend to cut into the plastic. Two options are available 1) use the OEM screw, 2) install a flat washer under the replacement bolt integrated washer.
- The oil pump belt cover is held with the same style screws used extensively throughout the car. These cover screws are a PIA to remove and install. I had to remove some through the cabin engine cover and some from the bottom. They can be replaced with hex bolts and washers from Fastenal. These replacements are very easy to install and remove all from the bottom. You can easily get a 3/8" torque wrench on all of them, from the bottom.
Fastenal Part No:
M6x25mm, Class 10.9, Bolt, Part No: 40653
Washer, Part No: 33075
- The screws used extensively on the car are a round head torx with washer. These cannot be turned by hand. For straight on access like the belly pans, they are easy to install and remove. However, any that are out of position, at an angle, around a corner, etc, are very hard to work with; the torx bit wants to wobble out. I have replaced many of these OEM screws with the following, for much, much easier removal/install. The original purists may groan over this, but, you can bag and mark the removed screws for future use. Also, all the out of position screws are mostly out of site anyway. You may want to have a box of 50 on hand so when you are tired of dealing with the OEM screws you are ready to go. Also, this will give you a few extra OEM screws that cost $6.00 - $10.00 each. If you shop on line for the following, you can get a box of 50 for $9.00.
Fastenal Part No:
M6x25mm - 17mm washer, Class 9.8, Part No: 0162790 - This works most of the time
M6x25mm - 24mm washer, Class 9.8, Part No: 0162791 – Some places the OEM washer is not quite big enough and this works better
The only drawback to these is when a plastic part is under the integrated screw washer, it may tend to cut into the plastic. Two options are available 1) use the OEM screw, 2) install a flat washer under the replacement bolt integrated washer.
extrap
GT Owner
HighHP
GT Owner
How often should the belts be changed and if there’s a priority in a time line scale for which ones
HighHP
GT Owner
In reality, not very often. I changed mine after 15 years and 20,000 miles. They seemed fine. However, if the front of engine is being worked on and the cabin access hole is open, change all three. Most engines run over 100,000 miles with the original belts.