2005 GT Fuel delivery problem(s)


custodian

Member
Apr 27, 2018
15
2005 GT
Went to start after sitting idle for about 2 weeks and all it would do is crank, no fire. After checking all fuses, found both fuel pump fuses were blown. Replaced fuses and tried again, both fuses blew approximately 2 seconds apart.
Plugged in analyzer and received the following code: P0190 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor.
Replaced fuses and Unplugged the fuel rail sensor, cranked engine,no blown fuses this time and of coarse I knew it would not start without this sensor just checking to see if this may had been the problem.
Replaced with new (Ford) sensor, cranked engine, both fuses blew again. Plugged analyzer back in and this time received the following codes:
P0190-Fuel rail pressure sensor (again)
P0191-Fuel range pressure sensor Range/Performance
P0463-Fuel level sensor A circuit high impute
P1233-Fuel pump driver module disabled or offline
Anyone experienced this challenge or have a suggestion.
 

Johntpr

GT Owner
Jan 18, 2017
139
Rockland County, NY
This may help you:

I doubt it is in the rail. Those codes are likely secondary to the pump or pump driver issue.

http://www.fordgtforum.com/forums/showthread.php/23467-Code-P1233
 
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PeteK

GT Owner
Apr 18, 2014
1,210
Great Falls, VA
No experience yet, but I'd want to measure the pressure on the fuel rails. I'm thinking it could be the fuel rail pressure regulator stuck and causing the rail pressure to go very high, in turn causing the pumps to work against that pressure and popping the fuses. That could also cause the other errors if the sensors are reading pressure beyond their limits too.
 

nota4re

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Feb 15, 2006
3,605
My $.02. 1) Seems to be more to the story, "Went to start after sitting idle for about 2 weeks" OR 2) Possibility of rodent(s) playing havoc with wiring.

Such an unusual and peculiar problem.
 

68Rcodeman

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Apr 5, 2008
542
Spring Hill, FL.
Possible rodent nesting in the right side front fender and fuel level circuit chewed on. These codes are memory faults. Can you clear them and perform key on engine off self test ? The KOEO will be a hard fault and that would be the code to perform pinpoint test on. If you do that and post the code I will copy and paste pinpoint test directions for you. Hope this helps.
 

custodian

Member
Apr 27, 2018
15
Not sure how to perform a KOEO test. Have googled for information but all links seem to indicate that you need to let the engine warm up prior to testing. This GT will not start, I will do more research on how to perform this test on a car not running and get back with you. I do appreciate the help you have offered.
 

2112

Blue/white 06'
Mark II Lifetime
Subscribing to thread
 

GT101

*UK Support*
Supporting Vendor
Jan 20, 2010
292
Colchester, Essex, UK
I’d also suggest checking or swapping the fuel pump module relays in the fuse box below the stowage latch - we’ve had relays go very sticky on cars which have had little to no use.



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custodian

Member
Apr 27, 2018
15
Ok, been away from vehicle for a couple of weeks due to personal issue. First off, I would like to thank everybody for the advice and suggestions that have come my way. Let me bring everyone up to date on what I have done and noticed.
I had not noticed that the wipers are not functioning correctly, all I have is the high "fast" wipers, no slow or intermittent. The relays for these are in the same box as the fuel pump relays and fuel pump fuses which keep blowing. However, when I checked the wiper fuse in the fuse box in the passenger cabin, it was fine (I knew it would be since the motor does operate on high).
The a/c relay is in the same box, but since the car does not start/run. I cannot check that. Same thing goes for the anti-lock brakes, the relay for these run through the same box.
The fog light relay is in the same box and the fog lights work, no problem there.
Starter relay same box, engine will crank but not run.
Wiring harness looks good at the auxiliary relay box. My next step was to remove the console to get to the fuel pumps and sending unit and check for shorts at this point. What is puzzling me know is the fact that the wipers only work on high and the wiring runs a total different direction from this box to the wiper motor than the fuel pumps.
I have swapped all the relays around using the fog lamps as the base for my test and all relays will operate the fog lamps so I am pretty confident they are okay.
Would anyone please be able to navigate me through the removal of the console? I have an idea how to do this, just want to make sure there are no hidden tricks I need to know.
Thanks in advance.
 

Xcentric

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Jul 9, 2012
5,209
Myakka City, Florida
Wipers run on high when the trunk lid is open.
 

GKW05GT

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
May 28, 2011
2,455
Fayetteville, Ga.
Check short shifter install threads requires console removal
 

68Rcodeman

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Apr 5, 2008
542
Spring Hill, FL.
Trying to log in and copy and paste directions. Fords sight down. I will try again later.
Here you go.
501-12 Instrument Panel and Console 2005 Ford GT
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Procedure revision date: 06/23/2004
Floor Console

Item Part Number Description
1
63045K69
Center console side panels
2
W708149
Screw (6 required)
3
14401
Electrical connectors
4
63045A06
Center console

Removal and Installation

Disconnect the battery. For additional information, refer to Section 414-00.
Remove the engine cover trim panel. For additional information, refer to Section 501-05.
Unscrew the shifter lever knob.
Remove the parking brake bezel and position the parking brake in the set position.

Remove the smart junction box (SJB) cover.
Remove the screws and remove the cover.

Disengage the center console side panels from the center console, then remove the side panels.
Remove the 6 center console screws.
To install, tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
NOTICE: To avoid damaging the floor console, do not let it contact the instrument panel radio bracket.

Raise the center console at rear to access the electrical connectors at the climate control switches.
Disconnect the electrical connectors.
Remove the center console from the vehicle.
To install, reverse the removal procedure.
 
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custodian

Member
Apr 27, 2018
15
Thank you for that information. That helps me narrow the problem down quite a bit. I will concentrate on a fuel pump(s)/sender issue now.
 

nota4re

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Feb 15, 2006
3,605
Those Ford instructions are horrible. No need at all to touch or remove the SJB cover, etc.

You must first remove the subwoofer. When re-installing use a small punch in an adjacent hole to help you align holes and get screw threads started. Small perimeter panel around parking brake needs to be pulled straight up to remove.

But honestly, I don't think you are looking in the right place in terms of probability. You should be removing the front right passenger wheel well liner and then examining and diagnosing from there - where the control modules are. You can also directly access the fuel pump wires and do all of the test you wanted to do under the console. I highly recommend that you start there before going into the interior as there is much more to learn/diagnose/confirm in that location.
 

STORMCAT

GT
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
May 25, 2006
7,403
Ft. Lauderdale
I’d also suggest checking or swapping the fuel pump module relays in the fuse box below the stowage latch - we’ve had relays go very sticky on cars which have had little to no use.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
+ 1 .. I see you mention the fuel pump fuses but did you swap out the 2 fuel pump relays? mine have failed twice..

You can also by pass the fuel pump driver control modules to make the run constant on for a volume check . disconnect the line a the fuel rail and pump into a container..

also , did you check for a plugged filter ??
 
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custodian

Member
Apr 27, 2018
15
Yes, I did swap out the fuel pump relays and no change. Also, did verify fuel pump was not clogged. Thank you for your suggestions.
 

custodian

Member
Apr 27, 2018
15
I have the inner fender off and have located the modules. Is there a way I can bypass the modules and send power directly to the fuel pumps one at a time? Tomorrow I will ping the wiring in both directions to verify I do not have a short. All the wiring I see from the front to the fuel pump itself all look good with no sign of overheating or rodent chewing. Even behind the inner fender well, it is extremely clean.
What is puzzling to me is the fact that both fuel pump fuses are blowing when I try to start the car, not just one. I could understand a single fuse blowing but not both since I cannot locate a position where both pumps wiring come in contact with each other.
This may sound crazy but I am wondering if a poor ground could be causing this issue.
I do appreciate your input.
 

custodian

Member
Apr 27, 2018
15
Does anybody have the wiring diagram for the fuel system? Electrical to the pumps? Went to the local Ford house and they truly were not much help with this problem nor could they help me with any technical information.
 

nota4re

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Feb 15, 2006
3,605
op - I hope the following is readable to you otherwise let me know and I'll upload a pdf.

Epson_06072018132207.jpg
 

custodian

Member
Apr 27, 2018
15
Thank you. I was able to print it off.
What book is it this came from? I asked at the local Ford house if there was any technical literature available to purchase on this car and they were not able to help me with obtaining anything. I would really like to purchase something that shows breakdowns such as electrical schematics, mechanical and body.