Electrical gremlins


The Ford battery is a Optima Red Top. As I recall the price of a Ford branded battery and the Optima from O'Reilleys wasn't that much (O'Reilley's a little less). But... Ford dealer had to order one - two weeks - or O'Reilleys had a whole shelf of them.
 
Yea I don’t care if it says FGT on it. I just want the best battery and I know this is similar to an “oil” question.
 
The red is fine.....drive it and test the volts. You need an evap loop heat cycle..drive on!
 
gtjoey said:
The red is fine.....drive it and test the volts. You need an evap loop heat cycle..drive on!
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I think what Joey is saying is that after removing and replacing the battery you will need to run a drive cycle. So, if you need OBDII emissions test done soon, do it before replacing the battery or you'll have to go through the cycle to get all the emissions subsystem tests run.

Or... This worked for me.

Before disconnecting the battery connect up the Ford trickle charger (that plugs in to the accessory plug).

When you remove the battery cables be absolutely positively careful not to touch the positive cable to ground. Wrap it with electrical tape after removing the cable and before removing the battery.

The trickle charger kept the ECU "alive" enough that it didn't reset the test status.
 
Thanks guys. Thankfully no emissions testing in AL!!! I'm catless!!!
 
The 9 volt is the right way for backup ecu storage, BUT he didn't do that.
I have a big feeling, DRIVE the car for an hour and all will be ok.
 
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