Whipple 3.25" pulley numbers: 807.45 rwhp, 764.25 rwtq !!


632C2

GT Owner
Oct 23, 2006
86
Puyallup, WA
Update! Whipple 3.25" pulley numbers: 807.45 rwhp, 764.25 rwtq !!

Ok, so those numbers are UNCORRECTED. But who cares, it actually made 807.45 rwhp and 764.25 rwtq. I can't help it if it was 50.6 degrees out, a barometric pressure of 29.8, and a humidity of 48%.:biggrin

Since bony used STD correction factors for his published numbers and I always use SAE, I thought I would really turn this upside down!

The STD numbers are 795.28 rwhp / 752.73 rwtq. The SAE numbers are 771.60 rwhp / 730.32 rwtq.:frown

I was shooting for over 800 rwhp SAE corrected but have decided to give up on this combination for now - even though I could probably get closer with some more tuning. Tony at HP got me going in the right direction then I took over from there. His advice and experience was invaluable.

The boost averaged appx. 22 psi during the run with a few areas in the midrange of almost 25 psi. That kind of boost is a little too high for my comfort zone so I am going to the 3.5" pulley. I ran a 33/67 blend of 92 unleaded pump gas / 101 unleaded race gas but probably should be running a 104 octane unleaded gas for this much boost.

Does Whipple make a killer product here or what?? Not to mention a great company to deal with!

Steve

gt_4_3.jpg
 
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MADAMEA!

I'm leaning way into the Whipple option after the last few posts. Couple of questions:
1. Did you go with the SCT or Diablo option?
2. Did you have to change the idler pulley?
3. What Exhaust do you have?
4. Did you add teh Accufab Throttle Body etc...


Thanks in advance...... and WOW!!!!!:cheers
 
Thanks! Here are the answers to your questions:

1) SCT
2) No
3) Accufab
4) Yes, the Accufab throttle body

The Whipple is the way to go! I'm sure you will be happy. I did my own install and it is as easy as it gets.

Steve

MADAMEA!

I'm leaning way into the Whipple option after the last few posts. Couple of questions:
1. Did you go with the SCT or Diablo option?
2. Did you have to change the idler pulley?
3. What Exhaust do you have?
4. Did you add teh Accufab Throttle Body etc...


Thanks in advance...... and WOW!!!!!:cheers
 
Awesome numbers!:thumbsup
 
I ran a 33/67 blend of 92 unleaded pump gas / 101 unleaded race gas but probably should be running a 104 octane unleaded gas for this much boost.
gt_4_3.jpg

Great numbers congratulations.

Agree that pure race fuel is required.

25 lbs of boost = a CR of about 22.00 and a requirement of about 117 ++ octane.
22 lbs of boost = a CR of about 21.00 and a requirement of atleast 113 octane

CRs from http://www.blowerdriveservice.com/techcharts.php

So it does not seem that 91 octane or 93 octane is suitable if you get on it as detonation would be the first issue along with others leading to potential serious trouble.

Dave
 
Have you thought about using the 3.625" pulley which should yield closer to 19lbs boost. Less power? Yes, but safer for the engine and pump gas. The extra 1+psi may be pushing the stock internals and I am sure the 20hp will not be noticeable at those levels.
 
Have you thought about using the 3.625" pulley which should yield closer to 19lbs boost. Less power? Yes, but safer for the engine and pump gas. The extra 1+psi may be pushing the stock internals and I am sure the 20hp will not be noticeable at those levels.

lthlvpr

Still would be about 19 CR which requires race fuel no matter what.

Dave
 
F%&$ ME :eek

Congrats big time!
 
Nice numbers!

I would strongly suggest richening your tune in the 3100-4200, 4400-5100, 5200-5600 and 6000-redline. You are on the high side of the not quite safe zone. Ideally you'd like to be in a 11.7-11.9 a/f range the whole way though.

David
 
Regardless of fuel the engine internals have certain limits and this is the main reason why I think being more conservative (ie 3.625 pulley) might be something to consider. At 19psi the engine is in a safer range and you could probably get away with pump fuel as long as you have the right plugs and the run conservative timing. The adjusted compression ratio is just part of the equation as you can always dump in fuel and retard timing to avoid detonation at these boost levels.
 
ROCMAN said:
Awesome numbers!:thumbsup
Thanks, and I agree!

barondw said:
Great numbers congratulations.

Agree that pure race fuel is required.

25 lbs of boost = a CR of about 22.00 and a requirement of about 117 ++ octane.
22 lbs of boost = a CR of about 21.00 and a requirement of atleast 113 octane

CRs from http://www.blowerdriveservice.com/techcharts.php

So it does not seem that 91 octane or 93 octane is suitable if you get on it as detonation would be the first issue along with others leading to potential serious trouble.

Dave
Thank you! I definitely need to find a tune-up with my 92 octane unleaded that will work with the 3.50" pulley.

lthlvpr said:
Have you thought about using the 3.625" pulley which should yield closer to 19lbs boost. Less power? Yes, but safer for the engine and pump gas. The extra 1+psi may be pushing the stock internals and I am sure the 20hp will not be noticeable at those levels.
I am with you on lowering the boost and who cares about 20 rwhp at these levels. I will now go to the 3.50" pulley and see what the boost level is. Hopefully the boost will not be much greater than 20 psi or so.

DBK said:
F%&$ ME

Congrats big time!
Thanks! I just wish that I could get a chance to drive the car. Unfortunately, the weather is crap up here.

dgussin1 said:
Nice numbers!

I would strongly suggest richening your tune in the 3100-4200, 4400-5100, 5200-5600 and 6000-redline. You are on the high side of the not quite safe zone. Ideally you'd like to be in a 11.7-11.9 a/f range the whole way though.

David
Again, thanks! I am wondering what the real world ramifications are when comparing an A/F of 12.0:1 (which I like) to an A/F or 11.7-11.9 that you suggested? Your feedback will be appreciated.

lthlvpr said:
Regardless of fuel the engine internals have certain limits and this is the main reason why I think being more conservative (ie 3.625 pulley) might be something to consider. At 19psi the engine is in a safer range and you could probably get away with pump fuel as long as you have the right plugs and the run conservative timing. The adjusted compression ratio is just part of the equation as you can always dump in fuel and retard timing to avoid detonation at these boost levels.
Your comments and concern are appreciated. I have been told by a number of tuners that the motor is incredibly strong and 23-25psi is of no concern. That being said, if something happened it would be my dime and not theirs. What I am wondering is where you come up with the 19psi number. A case could be made that 18psi is a safer range than 19psi - where does it end?

Steve
 
Thanks for posting boost pressure throughout full run.
 
Thanks for posting boost pressure throughout full run.
You bet! You can't have enough data.

Steve
 
Again, thanks! I am wondering what the real world ramifications are when comparing an A/F of 12.0:1 (which I like) to an A/F or 11.7-11.9 that you suggested? Your feedback will be appreciated.

having been around the modular scene for quite some time now and playing around with boost levels mirroring yours, I am just coming from experience. 12.0 is much safer than what you have going on. There are many parts where you're up over 12.7. The power differences from 11.7-11.9 are going to be insignificantly different (they may even be better) than a 12.0-12.5 a/f. Longevity is key, 10rwhp isn't going to make a difference when you're at 700+rwhp.

David
 
Congrats, big numbers....
I agree, Whipple is the way to go...
Drove my car 300 miles on Saturday without a hickup:biggrin
 
having been around the modular scene for quite some time now and playing around with boost levels mirroring yours, I am just coming from experience. 12.0 is much safer than what you have going on. There are many parts where you're up over 12.7. The power differences from 11.7-11.9 are going to be insignificantly different (they may even be better) than a 12.0-12.5 a/f. Longevity is key, 10rwhp isn't going to make a difference when you're at 700+rwhp.

David
Agreed. My goal is right around 12.0:1. That is what I will shoot for when I start tuning with the 3.50" pulley. Thanks.

Steve
 
Congrats, big numbers....
I agree, Whipple is the way to go...
Drove my car 300 miles on Saturday without a hickup:biggrin
Since your numbers are the first I saw using the Whipple, I am using them as my benchmark.

If I am not mistaken, you are running 730+ SAE rwhp (750+ STD) on 91 octane California gasoline with the 3.50" 19 psi pulley - and so far with zero problems!!

You've got to be happy with that!

Steve
 
Since your numbers are the first I saw using the Whipple, I am using them as my benchmark.

If I am not mistaken, you are running 730+ SAE rwhp (750+ STD) on 91 octane California gasoline with the 3.50" 19 psi pulley - and so far with zero problems!!

You've got to be happy with that!

Steve

I am very happy, my pulley is 3.75 and I run pump California gas.
I wasn't sure what size pulley Dustin installed, the GT GUY's found the stamping.
 
One of the many amazing numbers, and there are many, from the dyno chart posted, is before 3k rpm, the engine is making over 700 ft/lbs of "rear" wheeel tq. The Whipple positive displacement sc does use engine power to turn it, but it is an absolute beast.
 
Congrats Steve!!!! I knew you would get your 800!!!

Some info that I would like to share with you guys.. The sweet spot for peak power with the GT's whether it is Supercharged or Turbocharged has been 12.3...

Now with that being said, the cars never leave the shop at that A/F.. I strive to send them out with 11.8-12.0 (sometimes a little richer depending on the persons right foot!)



TonY G
 
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