aftermarket gauge installation & illumination


As a safety measure while all my gauges are functional and until Ford/Autometer decide how and when to resolve the issue(s) (if the problem exists of course), I'm thinking about taking my factory OEM setup out (shelving them) and replacing the entire assy. with the whole setup. Anyone else thinking the same?

I have a VM out right now - cost $500 to $781. Been through a $1,300 Tach... Expect more to fail (even Frank dropped his gas gauge)... Thoughts are to eventually replace the VM but for now put the money toward this replacement set.... As such my pre-order is in for a replacement set. I have the Free Flyer 30# gauge and will use that instead of the standard boost gauge


DBK -Aaron of Speedhut has also sent you an e-mail about wanting to be a $ponsor...........
 
First of all, the set in your Heritage will never break. Second, even if Ford comes out with a fix do you expect them to swap out new gauges for your working old ones. I don't see how this solves a problem.

There are two possibilities on gauge failures:

1. The gauges
2. The gauge controller

I strongly suspect the gauge controller is "taking out" the gauges rather than the gauges just failing on their own. If I'm right the fix is to the controller, not a set of replacement gauges. Of course, any fix to the controller could be to make the gauges themselves less susceptible to the bogus controller stimulus.
 
There are two possibilities on gauge failures:

1. The gauges
2. The gauge controller

I strongly suspect the gauge controller is "taking out" the gauges rather than the gauges just failing on their own. If I'm right the fix is to the controller, not a set of replacement gauges. Of course, any fix to the controller could be to make the gauges themselves less susceptible to the bogus controller stimulus.

It depends on how you look at it. My best guess is an voltage spike that is prevalent in all cars is taking out the gauges. You can either design the gauges to be immune to the spikes or design the controller to filter out the spikes before the power and signals go to the gauges. I don't know which way Ford defined the specs. My guess is Autometer did there part and designed gauges fitting Ford's specs. But somehow the expected spikes are larger than anticipated so the gauges are dying. Hard to definitively prove since the failure is very rare and intermittent, you would have to instrument up a few cars and drive them with many start and stop cycles. I don't see how anyone is going to pay for testing included Ford.
 
First of all, the set in your Heritage will never break. Second, even if Ford comes out with a fix do you expect them to swap out new gauges for your working old ones. I don't see how this solves a problem.

I still start the Heritage every month and bring it up to normal operating temperatures and I put my hand on my heart every time I start it. With buying this replacement set, I can at the least have a set of working instruments tucked away for the future. Regardless, I do agree with you that Ford/Autometer have a consumer loyalty responsibility and not a legal responsibility to step up and help us out. Of course the final decision is theirs.

BTW and I am just postulating here, will BMW find a fix for a Z8 gauge years after production have seized?
 
It depends on how you look at it. My best guess is an voltage spike that is prevalent in all cars is taking out the gauges. You can either design the gauges to be immune to the spikes or design the controller to filter out the spikes before the power and signals go to the gauges. I don't know which way Ford defined the specs. My guess is Autometer did there part and designed gauges fitting Ford's specs. But somehow the expected spikes are larger than anticipated so the gauges are dying. Hard to definitively prove since the failure is very rare and intermittent, you would have to instrument up a few cars and drive them with many start and stop cycles. I don't see how anyone is going to pay for testing included Ford.

Military grade helicopters design for a dirty power filter to insure clean electrical systems while in flight. I wonder if I can find one in a Heli Junkyard and retrofit it to work with the GT. :lol:lol

I will bet money it is a Voltage Spike!
 
Not sure about the GCM theory... my new Speed Hut Dash/Gauges cluster has been performing perfectly
for the past two months during testing with the original GCM... no other changes made.

My car had three dead gauges, speedometer, boost and temp... yeah, I could have spent the $4K+ and had 'em
all replaced, or I could take a different route.

With the seeming reluctance from the OEM to even admit there might be a problem, and the further lack of availability and reliability of the replacement OEM parts.. my choice was an easy one.

I welcomed the opportunity to work with Aaron & Wade over at Speed Hut to resolve the gauge problem on my FGT...
and they have certainly delivered on their end of the deal.

For the cost of replacing a FGT speedometer and two other small gauges (maybe about $4K+) an FGT owner can now
purchase a complete dash cluster, made in the USA, with gauges that are guaranteed for about 30% of what the OEM wants for three gauges alone?

And they're available right now (as in today); And you get to pick your own design; Are you kidding me?

If this whole scenario isn't a win-win for our small community.. they'll never be one.

mardyn
 
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Mardyn,

doyou know if a 30lbs boost gauge is in the offing?
 
Let me ask a dumb question here, is the tach and speedo 100% excat fit ? if not, then how will the SH tach and speedo fit ? (Ford or Kip's CF gauge cluster)
 
They are not an exact fit. Thats my only problem. Call me dumb but I love the way the tach looks with the flat bottom. I'm just weird that way I want it to look like the original.
 
They are not an exact fit. Thats my only problem. Call me dumb but I love the way the tach looks with the flat bottom. I'm just weird that way I want it to look like the original.
I generally use the 6 month rule, 6 months from now will I know the difference?
 
They are not an exact fit. Thats my only problem. Call me dumb but I love the way the tach looks with the flat bottom. I'm just weird that way I want it to look like the original.

You're probably right. But when I sit in my car, the top of the airbag pretty much exactly covers the bottom (flat bit) of the tach. So I can't actually tell it's flat from the driver's side. It looks like all the other dials from where I sit, ie-round. And for me, Paul is right, 6 months from now, I wouldn't know the difference.

What I'd REALLY like to know, is if we can get a tach with a revised redline to match the tunes we have in our cars? I assume the shift light could be programmed for that, but it'd be nice to have the redline part matched to it also.......I mean, if I'm getting a new tach and all.......

Here's a sort of view from the drivers seat (camera is a little forward (lens in front of face), so it's a little lower than it should be in order to see the dials) but you get the idea of the flat bottom part of the tach being invisible to the driver. Well, to THIS driver anyway (and being taller than 6', it's not like I'm particularly short, so maybe it's just the way I sit in the car).
 

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do you know if a 30lbs boost gauge is in the offing?

The higher level boost gauge was discussed during our initial planning phase and is a
definite possibility in the future, but for the first round, we elected to go with the gauge
increments that were compatible with the existing data stream from the GCM.

I'm sure they can do a matching one right now, but it would have to use an independent
sensor as opposed to reading through the MAF/GCM/PCM.

As the project & product line continues to evolve, I suspect a 30 psi boost gauge is eminent.

The tach is round rather than D shaped, so it really can't easily fit into the existing GT dash panel,
hence the requirement for a different panel with a round hole. I also believe the "redline area" on the face of the tach
can be ordered at different increments (maybe 9K rather than 8K for example) but that is
all up for you to decide. The built-in shift lights are programmable and are really a cool feature as well ( I've currently
got mine set kinda' low just to watch 'em light up as I progress through the RPM range).


100_2249.jpg

{Better pic of tach}

The Speed Hut speedometer is smaller than the OEM unit. 4" as opposed to the FGT 5" piece. The 4" speedo
could easily be installed in an existing OEM panel using an flat adapter ring (kinda' like a large diameter washer). Painted
or anodized black, it would hardly be noticeable as much of it would remain behind the bezel anyway.

A 5" Speed Hut speedo version might be a possibilty as well, but I suspect it would depend on the demand.

Again, I appreciate everyone's interest and comments. As I understand it, Aaron over at Speed Hut is currently working with
the FGT Forum to obtain vendor status and become an official forum supporter.

mardyn
 
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Do you have a "how to" post with pictures for the swap/R&R procedure for the instrument panel? My Mustang forum has these for just about everything, I even contributed a few myself.
 
Let me be the first, the search button is your friend. I always wanted to say that, in this case it's true. Plenty of info and pictures.
 
I like bringing up topics that are new to us new guys, even if they have been discussed before because;

1) Things do change over time
2) Keeps the forum lively and worth checking into often to see what is new.

Searching through old threads sure shows how many guys used to contribute alot and don't show up any more. I am sure there are many reasons but rehashing older topics probably is not one of them.
 
I'm sure they can do a matching one right now, but it would have to use an independent
sensor as opposed to reading through the MAF/GCM/PCM.

mardyn

Is that how the "other" OEM looking 30lb gauge does it?
 
I'm not sure how the other gauge gets the data.

It's my understanding that the GT's stock PCM and associated
electronics are signal limited to about 15 psi worth of boost.

More than that requires an additional interface (Mafia) device that interacts with the
on-going magic and reduces the signal count from the MAF and allows
the higher boost level data and different fuel maps to live/act happily within
the domain of the GT's existing PCM. (and also sneak out to the gauges)

I'm at the very edge of my knowledge on this topic (and maybe beyond the edge)
but hopefully some of the wiser members can chime in and give us the real scoop.

mardyn
 
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I think most of us with more boost have something like the Mafia, I know I do.

Are you saying we need to run a wire from the dash to the Mafia to make the 30Lb gauge work?
 
Are you saying we need to run a wire from the dash to the Mafia to make the 30Lb gauge work?

No, I think the modified data stream travels the conventional path through the PCM/GCM and then on to the gauge.

What kind of boost gauge do you currently have in there?

mardyn
 
No, I think the modified data stream travels the conventional path through the PCM/GCM and then on to the gauge.

What kind of boost gauge do you currently have in there?

mardyn

I have a Whipple with the MAFIA and a useless OEM gauge. I refused to spend $2000 for a 30 Lb. Boost Gauge and have done without - until now! Please please please talk to the guys. and see if they will get one done for us Whipplers..