WARNING: Front Hood Bumper Plate Adhesion


usmcfred

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Oct 26, 2006
546
Massachusetts
I don't know if anyone has posted on this subject previously, but thought I would warn of possible poor adhesion of the black powder coated "stop plates" that are epoxied to the underside of the hood at each trailing corner. The rubber height adjustable stops at each rear corner of your front compartment bump up against these plates which I assume are provided so that the rubber bumpers have something more rigid than fibreglass to butt against. I opened my hood the other day and the right side plate let go and bounced off the top of the right fender before hitting the floor. I was very lucky that the plate hit flat, not on its edge, so no dent on the fender resulted. Upon inspection, I found a coating of epoxy was still stuck to the inner fiberglass panel however, it had almost completely released from the underside of the plate taking the powder coating with it. The steel that was exposed showed surface rust so my guess is after stamping, this part rusted while sitting in a parts bin before being powder coated, thus resulting in poor adhesion between the coating and the steel.

The fix was simple. After cleaning up the surface rust from the underside of the plate using the wire wheel on my bench grinder, and then drilling a single 1/8" hole, I mixed some two-part epoxy and after removing the remnants of the old epoxy from the inner hood panel, I re-epoxied the plate holding it in its former location with masking tape until I could drill through the hole in the plate and through the inner fiberglass panel in order to pop rivet a single (black) rivet for extra security just in case. The left side plate seemed secure however for peace of mind, I also drilled a single hole and pop riveted that one in place without removing it from the panel. The rivets are virtually undetectable and now, even if the epoxy were to fail, those plates are no longer a threat to dislodge and possibly strike the front fenders causing a major ding.

I suggest everyone check their stop plates for good adhesion as it's likely there are others out there that rusted before coating. If you have or can borrow a center punch, drill and a pop rivet tool, I also suggest you perform, or have someone else do this simple 5 minute rivet fix in place for added insurance and peace of mind. usmcfred
 
Fred to Fred

I don't know if anyone has posted on this subject previously, but thought I would warn of possible poor adhesion of the black powder coated "stop plates" that are epoxied to the underside of the hood at each trailing corner. The rubber height adjustable stops at each rear corner of your front compartment bump up against these plates which I assume are provided so that the rubber bumpers have something more rigid than fibreglass to butt against. I opened my hood the other day and the right side plate let go and bounced off the top of the right fender before hitting the floor. I was very lucky that the plate hit flat, not on its edge, so no dent on the fender resulted. Upon inspection, I found a coating of epoxy was still stuck to the inner fiberglass panel however, it had almost completely released from the underside of the plate taking the powder coating with it. The steel that was exposed showed surface rust so my guess is after stamping, this part rusted while sitting in a parts bin before being powder coated, thus resulting in poor adhesion between the coating and the steel.

The fix was simple. After cleaning up the surface rust from the underside of the plate using the wire wheel on my bench grinder, and then drilling a single 1/8" hole, I mixed some two-part epoxy and after removing the remnants of the old epoxy from the inner hood panel, I re-epoxied the plate holding it in its former location with masking tape until I could drill through the hole in the plate and through the inner fiberglass panel in order to pop rivet a single (black) rivet for extra security just in case. The left side plate seemed secure however for peace of mind, I also drilled a single hole and pop riveted that one in place without removing it from the panel. The rivets are virtually undetectable and now, even if the epoxy were to fail, those plates are no longer a threat to dislodge and possibly strike the front fenders causing a major ding.

I suggest everyone check their stop plates for good adhesion as it's likely there are others out there that rusted before coating. If you have or can borrow a center punch, drill and a pop rivet tool, I also suggest you perform, or have someone else do this simple 5 minute rivet fix in place for added insurance and peace of mind. usmcfred

Fred,
Sounds like good advice.
What was your year & VIN?
Fred
 
Thanks for the tip. I'll take a look at mine.
 
Spirit, My car is an '06 #1790. usmcfred
 
Thanks

Spirit, My car is an '06 #1790. usmcfred

Thanks Fred,

I was wondering how far "away" from mine your's was :shrug [as if that has anything to do with anything].:confused

We are 1160 apart.

I will take a good look at mine tomorrow to see if it appears to have a similar situation.

Thanks for your post.

Fred
 
I have a late '06 car (1778) and it doesn't have the plates. The bumpers make direct contact with the hood. I can see concours judges 40 years from now agonizing over such details....
 
Very strange indeed. My '06 car is #1790 so presumably built after yours. Is there any epoxy residue indicating plates were once attached? usmcfred
 
No plates here

USMCFRED, Could you post a picture of this? My car doesn't have these plates, and it appears that it never did.
 
My car has no evidence of the plates. I do have the brackets that slip over the bumpers when the hood is closed.
 
It is becoming obvious from these posts that some GT's have the plates and some don't. I have read that Ford used two different inner panels on the front hoods ... one "rough" and one smooth. Perhaps the rough finished fiberglass does not require these bumper stops for rigidity. My inner hood panel is the smooth version and has the plates.

I would say the bottom line is if you don't have them, not to worry. However if you do, I suggest you check them for adhesion and I also suggest the easy pop rivet fix for extra security. usmcfred
 
It would be great to see photo's of each style. Could someone post these?
 
My '06 #1740 does not have the plates either. It makes direct contact with the hood.

David
 
 
Another GT Mystery

Fred

Finally got around to checking mine.

No 'plates', and no evidence of there ever being such.

Does have the 'smooth' type inter hood panel.

Another GT 'mystery'.

Still, thanks for the warning notice.

Fred
 
Just so the cynics here don't think I'm smoking funny cigarettes ... does anyone else have these black powder coated plates that cover the flat area above the "step" under the braket with the hole for the rubber stop, or is my '06 GT #1790 the only one? All I've read is from guys without these plates. Thanks.
 
usmcfred finally got around to checking my front hood. Below is the pic. As you can see mine have 4bolts holding the bracket/plate in place. My car is an 06 # 1955.


http://www.fordgtforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2072&stc=1&d=1170625547
 

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06fordgt, It is the flat plate (behind the guide plate that's held with four screws) that is in question. It appears from your photo that your back plate already has a single fastener as insurance for an epoxy failure. As a very late 2006 car, perhaps Ford discovered the adhesion problem and did a version of my pop rivet fix at the factory. usmcfred
 
usmcfred now I understand what you meant. next time I will check to see if there is something there or is that little whole is filled simply with a guide bump.
 
I don't know if anyone has posted on this subject previously, but thought I would warn of possible poor adhesion of the black powder coated "stop plates" that are epoxied to the underside of the hood at each trailing corner. The rubber height adjustable stops at each rear corner of your front compartment bump up against these plates which I assume are provided so that the rubber bumpers have something more rigid than fibreglass to butt against. I opened my hood the other day and the right side plate let go and bounced off the top of the right fender before hitting the floor. I was very lucky that the plate hit flat, not on its edge, so no dent on the fender resulted. Upon inspection, I found a coating of epoxy was still stuck to the inner fiberglass panel however, it had almost completely released from the underside of the plate taking the powder coating with it. The steel that was exposed showed surface rust so my guess is after stamping, this part rusted while sitting in a parts bin before being powder coated, thus resulting in poor adhesion between the coating and the steel.

The fix was simple. After cleaning up the surface rust from the underside of the plate using the wire wheel on my bench grinder, and then drilling a single 1/8" hole, I mixed some two-part epoxy and after removing the remnants of the old epoxy from the inner hood panel, I re-epoxied the plate holding it in its former location with masking tape until I could drill through the hole in the plate and through the inner fiberglass panel in order to pop rivet a single (black) rivet for extra security just in case. The left side plate seemed secure however for peace of mind, I also drilled a single hole and pop riveted that one in place without removing it from the panel. The rivets are virtually undetectable and now, even if the epoxy were to fail, those plates are no longer a threat to dislodge and possibly strike the front fenders causing a major ding.

I suggest everyone check their stop plates for good adhesion as it's likely there are others out there that rusted before coating. If you have or can borrow a center punch, drill and a pop rivet tool, I also suggest you perform, or have someone else do this simple 5 minute rivet fix in place for added insurance and peace of mind. usmcfred

On my 2006 #1860 there are no plates behind the quides.:confused
 
no plates on my 05