Putting the GT in a time capsule.....

[HHGT]

I started this on another thread with no response to the second part question, so here goes, I really would appreciate a response.

I may have located the 2nd GT and if I do pull the trigger, I will be storing it -for years to come.

What fluids will have to be drained?
Jacking the car up off the wheels?
What plastic to keep on/off?
Dust issues?
Electrical component preservation?
Brake/clutch fluid?
Sump Pump gaskets drying up?
Draining the gas tank?
Draining the Radiator?
Heat and Humidity in SoCal?
Anything else?

Sam

 

[Shadowman]

I saw your earlier post but was reluctant to ramble.

Very long term storage (over 5 years) with no usage is a death nail over time to most if not all of the seals and hoses not to mention various other items throughout the gal. This has been done by many other exotic owners with cars such as the Lamborghini Countach and when placed back into service years later most required a complete going through. Museums have to deal with this all the time as such many of the gals are finally into a ‘no run” display only condition after several years. All of the rubber will dry up and retract in size resulting in leaks over time. Gaskets will shrink and may never come back to life even once fluids and heat are introduced to them this would still be the proverbial “crap shoot”. Unless your goal is to have a perfect Museum piece that will never see the road …period in which case none of this matters. In addition to the rubber parts and gaskets internal items such as cylinder walls will eventually rust. This sadly is simply a by product of moisture in the air and yes the process generally takes a long time and yep…. there are ways to “reduce” it from happening and yet I have seen some very cool cars that have sat for years in what were at one time considered ideal conditions and when the heads were removed….. wholla rust. Then the process of electrolysis can be an issue because as apart of the aluminum engine and transmission there are many dissimilar metals used as a part of the build process so items such as the cooling system will not remain happy. Some would same to simply drain the fluids and yet many of the pieces within live best when constantly moist such as seals at the water pump. Brakes fluid draws moisture out of the air so it will continue the process of becoming more contaminated and if not flushed will allow secondary corrosion to form and eat the system from the inside out.

As for dust and the electrical system; I would saw they are the least of your concerns. You can remove the battery and then keep the mice out and the electrical will be fine and as for dust whether a plastic bubble or cover….. either will do the trick

Most would share (if they had had experience with the results) that a program of running the gal at least once a year should be done. This could be a process where during the safest of times a 25 miles drive (not sitting and idling this is VERY bad) is undertaken so that all fluids come up to full operating temperature and all accumulated gasses mostly water vapor is expelled completely then you should top her off with fuel add a bit of Stabil or ?? drain the engine oil and swap the filter. Then fire her only long enough to get oil pressure and then put her to bed for another year.

You will want her off her feet so a means to keep the tires off the ground is ideal if not possible then over inflate then to 50 ish lbs and then every month or two roll her a couple feet to help reduce flat spots. With today’s tires most will come back to life once fully warmed up.

Good luck

Shadowman

 

[HHGT]

I saw your earlier post but was reluctant to ramble.

Very long term storage (over 5 years) with no usage is a death nail over time to most if not all of the seals and hoses not to mention various other items throughout the gal. This has been done by many other exotic owners with cars such as the Lamborghini Countach and when placed back into service years later most required a complete going through. Museums have to deal with this all the time as such many of the gals are finally into a ‘no run” display only condition after several years. All of the rubber will dry up and retract in size resulting in leaks over time. Gaskets will shrink and may never come back to life even once fluids and heat are introduced to them this would still be the proverbial “crap shoot”. Unless your goal is to have a perfect Museum piece that will never see the road …period in which case none of this matters. In addition to the rubber parts and gaskets internal items such as cylinder walls will eventually rust. This sadly is simply a by product of moisture in the air and yes the process generally takes a long time and yep…. there are ways to “reduce” it from happening and yet I have seen some very cool cars that have sat for years in what were at one time considered ideal conditions and when the heads were removed….. wholla rust. Then the process of electrolysis can be an issue because as apart of the aluminum engine and transmission there are many dissimilar metals used as a part of the build process so items such as the cooling system will not remain happy. Some would same to simply drain the fluids and yet many of the pieces within live best when constantly moist such as seals at the water pump. Brakes fluid draws moisture out of the air so it will continue the process of becoming more contaminated and if not flushed will allow secondary corrosion to form and eat the system from the inside out.

As for dust and the electrical system; I would saw they are the least of your concerns. You can remove the battery and then keep the mice out and the electrical will be fine and as for dust whether a plastic bubble or cover….. either will do the trick

Most would share (if they had had experience with the results) that a program of running the gal at least once a year should be done. This could be a process where during the safest of times a 25 miles drive (not sitting and idling this is VERY bad) is undertaken so that all fluids come up to full operating temperature and all accumulated gasses mostly water vapor is expelled completely then you should top her off with fuel add a bit of Stabil or ?? drain the engine oil and swap the filter. Then fire her only long enough to get oil pressure and then put her to bed for another year.

You will want her off her feet so a means to keep the tires off the ground is ideal if not possible then over inflate then to 50 ish lbs and then every month or two roll her a couple feet to help reduce flat spots. With today’s tires most will come back to life once fully warmed up.

Good luck

Shadowman

Thanks. I appreciate the time it took to write the response.

 

[K-P Garage]

service book also speaks to this

The GT sevice book contemplates longterm storage and addresses several "three year" replace items even with no mileage. I remember one is the belt that drives the oil pump.
Years ago, Fords used to come with a tag that hung from the turn signal switch that stated to move the car "25 feet every 90 days" or something like that in the event of long term storage. Good luck with it.

 

[Neilda]

Shadowman's post is comprehensive and accurate from my experience.

I bought a 25 year old Aston Martin* a couple of years ago with only 19,000 miles on the clock. 'Woo-hooo' I thought! Bodywork excellent - it all worked.

I've had to have the engine out, split etc etc etc. Eye-wateringly expensive surgery has been performed to get it running properly - from specialists that know this particular V8 engine. The reasons for all of this are as Shadowman has posted - dried out rubber bits deep (deep, deeeeep) in the engine. Oil turning a bit acidic etc

Will there be garages out there in 5+ years that know the GT? Should be - there's 4,000 out there (many more than my old Aston).

It's a specialist subject and one you should take some expert advice on as it's clearly one that needs some thought an planning. I had a little hunt on the internet but couldn't find anything particularly useful - I wonder if an historic racing club would have anything useful on the subject? Maybe you'd be advised to put at least 100 miles a month on the engine? From little I know, non-driven cars are not the bargain they first appear to be.....

Edit: *Aston Martins were never that reliable anyway! :lol

 

[Shadowman]

Thanks. I appreciate the time it took to write the response.

You are most welcome

Shadowman

 

[piplani]

I bought a Lotus 7 from a museum with 80 miles on the clock.Lucky me but guess what happened - its taken 2 months and a full strip to get it back on road.Heed good advice and use the car sparingly to keep it in top nick.

 

[ChipBeck]

Wow!

Outstanding post Shadowman. :thumbsup

Chip