oil change time


oil

You must remove three drain plugs.Two are on the oil pan and one on the dry sump tank.It took 10 quarts to fill mine,I can't imagine yours being much different.You do not use the small brass washer,It must be for another application. The O-ring goes in the groove above the threads on the oil filter cover.
Guy
 
where is the dry sump? i can not find it in the service manual.
 
sump tank

Frank,
The tank is on the rh side to the car just to the right of the engine.It's the oil fill tank.The bottom has a plug that's identical to the ones on the pan.It sits up above the lower frame rail.It actually is in the manual,but you really have to search for it.I marked the pages but the book is at my shop.BTW the torque is 18lb/ft for all three plugs.
Guy
 
Thanks....I guess i will re change my oil. So i actually only drained the oil sitting in the oil pan? Now at least i know the oil fill tank holds the additional 1.5 quarts.

Now for a question? How can an oil fill canister also double as a dry Sump.

What is the difference between a dry sump & wet sump?

i will sit back & listen.
 
Always be carefull when lifting your vehicle and do not follow the factory dealer handbook as it pertains to the rear lift points. I unfortunatly damaged my belly pan in the rear because the chassis does not exist at the rear illustrated lift points. The best point to lift the gt in the rear is at the chassis index points (machine aluminum pads with a half inch hole in the center)
I use a piece of 2x4 with a rubber hockey puck on top right on the pad, you can still remove all the fasteners using this technique. Have Fun...
Pete. 1644
 
I'm fortunate enough to have a 4 post to remove the bellypans, then transfer GT to 2 post lift. I like the hocky puck idea.
 
They really should have slots for lift pucks as used on the C5 Corvettes. It would just make the whole lifting thing easier and remove the guessing.

Dave
 
Changing Time

Its Time To Change The Oil On My Gt, I Am Very Anxious Over The Dealership Performing The Task.......i Like The Idea Of Removing The Oil From Above With The "suction"....seems Could Avoid Some "major" Malfunctions By The Help At The Dealership...and If There Is Only "one" Qt Of Oil Remaing Out Of 9.5....i Will Follow This Thread...has Anyone Tried/performed The Remove With The Suction Tech.....dallas
 
DALLAS said:
Its Time To Change The Oil On My Gt, I Am Very Anxious Over The Dealership Performing The Task.......i Like The Idea Of Removing The Oil From Above With The "suction"....seems Could Avoid Some "major" Malfunctions By The Help At The Dealership...and If There Is Only "one" Qt Of Oil Remaing Out Of 9.5....i Will Follow This Thread...has Anyone Tried/performed The Remove With The Suction Tech.....dallas
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I think it's more like 3 quarts left in the engine. I would definitely take the extra time and drain it correctly. It's far too expensive a car to cheap out on maintenance! :frown
 
At what interval (miles?) did you guys change the oil?
 
My first change was at 1000 miles and I plan to follow the manual for all future changes, if not more often.
 
DALLAS said:
Its Time To Change The Oil On My Gt, I Am Very Anxious Over The Dealership Performing The Task.......i Like The Idea Of Removing The Oil From Above With The "suction"....seems Could Avoid Some "major" Malfunctions By The Help At The Dealership...and If There Is Only "one" Qt Of Oil Remaing Out Of 9.5....i Will Follow This Thread...has Anyone Tried/performed The Remove With The Suction Tech.....dallas
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Dallas- where do you get the "suction tech"- got a website for it?

I was looking at the oil extractor from Griot's - it mentions not suitable for new Porsches with dry sump. I assume that the new Z06 and our beloved Ford GT will soon be added to that list due to dry sumps as well. Is the extra 1-3 quarts held in by the dry sump after suction-extraction of oil the ONLY reason not to use one of these devices? If so, couldn't we just change the oil, drive it around a few blocks , and change it again to get out virtually all the old oil ? I know this sounds excessive, but so does a 3-4 hour oil change with removal of dozens of bolts, etc. as described above! :biggrin

Here's a link to the extractor at Griot's.
http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?&SKU=10122 Here's a link to the extractor at Griot's.
Here's a link to a description of someone using it on a BMW. http://www.bmw325i.net/maint_oil_extractor.shtml

Like Dallas I am scared of the dealership, but will probably take the car there for the oil change.
 
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"CHEAP" OIL CHANGE

If I Was Misunderstoood.....i Am Not In The Least Concerned Over The Price Of The Oil Change....i Hav Owned And Sold Several Autos At This Price .....the Dealership Has "zero" Experience Working On A Ford Gt......and I Dont Wont Them Learning At "my" Expense....and I Dont Mean Money!!!!! My Opinion...i Dont Wont To Be Called And Told, "we Are Very Sorry. But Your Car Was Damagec During The Oil Change".........if The Suction Would Have Worked And Only Left Behind 1 Qt...my Plan Was To Take The Car To My Porsche Mech, And Pay Him To Do The Job......again "money" Is Not "my" Major Concern! Taking Care Of My Gt Is My Major Focus!....thats Why I Read This Thread.

Dallas
 
Dallas, I think I am with you on this one. It seems to be a lot of effort for the difference of a quart or two of synthetic oil. Especially with frequent oil changes. More harm can come from constantly undoing the belly pans than any harm that might come from a small amount of slightly aged synthetic. Based on the way most of us will drive these cars we are probably going to be changing the oil to frequently anyway?? PD :confused
 
Is the extra 1-3 quarts held in by the dry sump after suction-extraction of oil the ONLY reason not to use one of these devices? If so, couldn't we just change the oil, drive it around a few blocks , and change it again to get out virtually all the old oil ?
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That makes a lot of sense to me.

The dealer told me, after conferring with his tech, the first oil change was at 5,000 miles.
 
agree..nowadays you don't need to change the oil as often or as soon
 
Guys, I did some checking on the oil filter cap and it is pretty high.
List is $373
Sell is $270.
Please be careful with it if you decide to change oil yourself.
If you end up needing it just PM me.
 
92NSX said:
Guys, I did some checking on the oil filter cap and it is pretty high.
List is $373
Sell is $270.
Please be careful with it if you decide to change oil yourself.
If you end up needing it just PM me.
Click to expand...


Buy the individual item not the whole assembly. Drill down and get the O-ring and element part numbers. They are available.
 
92NSX,
Please drill down into it a bit more.
The filter and large black color "O" ring that go around the plastic filter screw top and can be purchased separately for less money than the kit that includes the cap.
The cap is very expensive but can be reused if you are careful not to cross thread it when putting it back on however I would always recommend putting on a new “O” ring.
I’ve also been reusing the inner plastic “baffle” (don’t know the exact term) that the filter itself slides over. This inner “baffle” also has a small “O” ring on the end / tip. It’s green in color and I suspect it is of synthetic compound so I’ve only changed this “O” ring once (so far).
I keep one screw cap in stock in case I cross thread the old one along with one inner “baffle” as a spare just in case.
Like others I did my initial first oil change with very low mileage (can’t remember but something under 500 miles). My GT has about 6 oil changes on it thus far and I’m changing it much sooner than the recommended 5,000 mile intervals but always before and again after each track event. High temperatures and mechanical stress beat on the oil and it's inexpensive when compared to potential internal engine damage.
Driving the heck out of it and enjoying every minute.
When you find the part numbers please post them here for our reference.
Thanks.
 
I will call FMC on Monday and get them to tell me the part # for the O-ring since my pic doesn't show it seperate. However, whenever I call Ford for techinal questions they require a VIN # for the vehicle in question. So therefore I need someone to provide that for me. It doesn't go on record or anything like that with FMC but rather lets them verify what I'm working on and what my concerns are.
That is a good idea about the oil change 'kits' that can be put together. Obviously I would need to know what everyone could agree on to be put in the kit.
 
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