New owner with a few Q's


agentf1

Active member
Oct 21, 2005
44
As my other post said my fried chose the GT over the Gallardo. The only things he does not like so far are trying to get in and out in his garage with another car next to him. I am assuming there is nothing you can do about this but live with it or get a bigger garage/parking spots. :lol He also isn't thrilled with the A-Pillar but again I do not think there is much you can do there either. I wish I had such problems. He does have a few Q's.

Can you raise the seat? What is the best way?

What are the best mods?

I am sure more will follow.

Thanks for all your help again guys. :thumbsup
 

Neilda

GT Owner
Oct 19, 2005
3,559
London, UK
You can't raise the seat, although there is a modification through a third party - from memory, check posts by 'carbuildergirl' - and that might give you some information.

Mods are the transaxle cooler and perhaps also the extended transaxle breather vent. There are a few here who are tinkering with different exhausts and pullies for the supercharger - mine's fast enough so I don't require this extra stuff.

Any help? N
 

CHAD

GT Owner
Feb 17, 2006
124
Sarasota, FL
Call Heffner for a pulley, filters and tune good for 100rwhp.
 

Gruntled

GT Owner
Dec 11, 2005
203
For starters, get the floorjack pads from analogdesigner.
 

MAD IN NC

Proud Owner/ BOD blah bla
Mark IV Lifetime
Feb 14, 2006
4,211
North Carolina
WP I agree.

The first aftermarket product I bought was Jay "jack pads". They saved the car's underpan from being crushed as we have heard of many times on this forum....
 

agentf1

Active member
Oct 21, 2005
44
What are jack pads? Is there a link where I can get them? Thanks.
 

Neilda

GT Owner
Oct 19, 2005
3,559
London, UK
I'd forgotten about the jack pads (sorry Jay!). Very useful - in fact, vital.
 

gtjim

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Apr 28, 2006
238
Neilda said:
I'd forgotten about the jack pads (sorry Jay!). Very useful - in fact, vital.

If one decides to have a dealer do necessary work, oil changes, etc., are the jack pads something that should still be purchased or will the dealer know better?

At this point in time I don't even know where I will take the car for an oil change. I ended up purchasing from Bentley Long Island, not a Ford dealer. So a second question is; Does anyone have suggestions on a qualified dealer (one used to workng on GTs) anywhere in the area? I live in SW Wisconsin so any number of large cities are within reasonable travel (Chicago, Milwaukee, Madison, Twin Cities, etc.).
 

nota4re

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Feb 15, 2006
4,200
The difficulty of an oil change has, IMO, been largely overrated. Better stated, almost the entire oil change trauma is in entrusting the car to someone who won't damage it. The oil change itself is straightforward - for someone willing to glance through the service manual recommendations. Lifting the vehicle is probably the most worrisome part. Most shops/dealers now employ 2-post lifts and some care needs to be taken to position the arms exactly over the specified lifting points. Jay's pads very much help this process as they are correctly shaped and they have a tab that locates them properly at the jack points.

If possible, I'd recommend a shop with a 4-post lift. With a 4 post, you have easy access to remove the pans and you simply don't have to deal with the jacking points. Having recently changed the oil myself, I'd make sure to watch/advise on the following points - especially the last one.

1. Change the oil filter first from the topside of the engine. Make sure a new o-ring is used on the screw cap.
2. Oil must be drained from the reservoir and the two drain bolts on the cast "pan". 3 drain plugs total to be removed. (Completing the filter change first allows the oil in the cartridge area to drain down to the "pan".)
3. Fill with 5-50w full synthetic. 9.5 quarts. You can use motorcraft or Castrol Syntec. (Castrol Syntec exceeds ford's requirements and can be purchased at Pep Boys ~$6/qt.)
4. When re-installing the bottom cover plates, make sure the mechanic hand-starts each screw to mitigate any chances of stripping.
5. After re-filling, and as a dry-sump system, it should be primed BEFORE starting the car. (I'll bet this step is skipped a lot.) You need to turn the key all the way to the "on" position, hold the accelerator to the floor, and crank the engine for a full 20 seconds. The car will not start as long as the pedal is floored. watch you Oil pressure gauge while doing this. You will see that it takes 10-15 seconds of cranking before the first sign of oil pressure.

Make sure you watch or tell you mechanic these steps. This isn't intended to be a substitute for the Service Manual instructions as it is just a summary.
 

gtjim

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Apr 28, 2006
238
nota4re, thanks for the imput.