Jacking Pucks and Tire Blocks

[partssmann]

I am sure this subject has been discussed many times but here is my take on the subject. When going to have new tires put on the FGT and not trusting tire jockeys decided to make my own Jacking Pucks and Tire Blocks. I had seen the hockey pucks and pucks with centering knob. Here is what I made using 3/4" plywood, Ace Hardware tapered rubber plugs, drywall screws and non-skid wood routering mat. Rear pucks measure 3-3/4" square with 7/8"x3/4" tapered rubber plug. Front pucks are 4"x3-1/4" with 3/4"x5/8" tapered rubber plug. Advantages, jacking pucks stay in without having to be located and easily seen vs. black pucks. Even forgot to pull 2 of them after driving home from tire shop but still in place. Tire blocks are 12"x18"x1-1/2" with non-skid router mat glued to bottom. Advantages are they do not slide on smooth concrete floors and allow jack clearance under car.

 

[GTJack]

Innovative!

 

[w.a.nelson]

Pretty cool!

Certainly solves one of the "fudging around" issues of the hockey pucks.

I routed slots in the bottom of the hockey puck, to straddle the yoke of the jack stand. I will now attach the tapered plug to the top of the puck, and that should allow for much easier alignment of the support system. More critical in the rear, due to the seam of the adjacent panels.

Thanks for posting.

 

[twobjshelbys]

Pretty cool!

Certainly solves one of the "fudging around" issues of the hockey pucks.

I routed slots in the bottom of the hockey puck, to straddle the yoke of the jack stand. I will now attach the tapered plug to the top of the puck, and that should allow for much easier alignment of the support system. More critical in the rear, due to the seam of the adjacent panels.

Thanks for posting.

I just went to the sporting goods store and bought some real hockey pucks.

 

[Howard]

I drilled holes in the hockey pucks and screwed in large, hex head bolts (1/2"?, I forget). I countersunk one side so the bolt head didn't protrude from the puck surface. I then pushed rubber tygon tubing over the threaded bolt so that its diameter was slightly larger than the FGT jacking position holes. That way the pucks stay in place while the jack, or jackstand, is positioned. The tapered plug, above, is an excellent alternative.

Howard

 

[pauls]

I am sure this subject has been discussed many times but here is my take on the subject. When going to have new tires put on the FGT and not trusting tire jockeys decided to make my own Jacking Pucks and Tire Blocks. I had seen the hockey pucks and pucks with centering knob. Here is what I made using 3/4" plywood, Ace Hardware tapered rubber plugs, drywall screws and non-skid wood routering mat. Rear pucks measure 3-3/4" square with 7/8"x3/4" tapered rubber plug. Front pucks are 4"x3-1/4" with 3/4"x5/8" tapered rubber plug. Advantages, jacking pucks stay in without having to be located and easily seen vs. black pucks. Even forgot to pull 2 of them after driving home from tire shop but still in place. Tire blocks are 12"x18"x1-1/2" with non-skid router mat glued to bottom. Advantages are they do not slide on smooth concrete floors and allow jack clearance under car.

I can be dense at times. So you don't want to jack up the car without centering the pucks into those jack point holes so as to center and/or prevent the jack from slipping?

 

[gtinmyblood]

clever remedy!

 

[SMOKDU]

Great idea for the front . I cut the pad to fit the opening in the rear so I can take off the under pannals while the car is in the air. Way easier then on your back under jack stands.

 

[Specracer]

Not fancy but I use hockey pucks. When under load, they don't slip, and prefect sized to hit the lift points, but not the sheet metal.

 

[junior]

Do these come in Carbon Fiber ? :biggrin-

On a serious note, I used Hockey pucks with an eye hook inserted into the pucks for my Z06, works great because they attach to the jacking hole portion on the car, put in and half twist-