Looking for a fuel vapor cannister for my 2006 FordGT. Part #467Z-9D653-CA. Ford says they are not in stock. Any tips would be appreciated or if you have one available I would be willing to name my next born after you-understanding your chances given that I'm 75 years old. Thanks so much for any help you can give me to get my rig back on the road.
Fuel Vapor Cannister
- Thread starter Orcas
- Start date
twobjshelbys
GT Owner
Are you referring to what is called the "charcoal canister"? First, it is very rare that the evap canister actually fails. What is leading you to this conclusion? Are you getting a evap slow or large leak code? These are usually in the P04xx (e.g, P0444 or P0456) depending on where the ECU decides to allocate it. In more than 90% of the cases where equipped the cause is the gas cap O-ring seal. The GT doesn't have one of these though - there is an integrated flapper in the fuel filler port. It's nasty to replace. The second most likely cause is the purge valve assembly and the third cause is the evap vacuum pump (which in the cases I've ran across is attached to the evap canister but separate from it).
I've often wondered what happens when critical emissions components are no longer available. I ran into this exact problem on my 2004 truck. I had a fuel pump replaced and in the process the dealer damaged my gas tank. The symptom was a series of P04xx (evap leak) check engine lights. Now I think it is extremely unfair to throw a CEL on these since the evap test itself can be incomplete for OBDII tests. In any case, the gas tank was no longer available and they only were able to fix it by finding one in a salvage yard. But the issue here could be that there is a CEL (which is an automatic emissions fail) ... The dealers ought to be required to maintain supply on any component which can cause such a code.
I've often wondered what happens when critical emissions components are no longer available. I ran into this exact problem on my 2004 truck. I had a fuel pump replaced and in the process the dealer damaged my gas tank. The symptom was a series of P04xx (evap leak) check engine lights. Now I think it is extremely unfair to throw a CEL on these since the evap test itself can be incomplete for OBDII tests. In any case, the gas tank was no longer available and they only were able to fix it by finding one in a salvage yard. But the issue here could be that there is a CEL (which is an automatic emissions fail) ... The dealers ought to be required to maintain supply on any component which can cause such a code.
Had one but sold it. I think it cross refs to motorcraft CX2002. Double check my memory.
Try SUMMIT https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mof-cx2002
or amazon https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-Fuel-Vapor-Storg-Can/dp/B000W9LEJU
Try SUMMIT https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mof-cx2002
or amazon https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-Fuel-Vapor-Storg-Can/dp/B000W9LEJU
PeteK
GT Owner
It's just a canister with activated charcoal in it. You can substitute one from another vehicle if you must get through emissions inspection. Maybe not what you want to see, but it will work. After passing test, then remove.
But I echo what TwoShelbys said: Since its such a simple part with no moving parts, it rarely fails unless physically damaged. IF it is physically damaged, and not squished, you can seal up the cracks with epoxy or some such. One other problem that can occur is if the gas tank was so overfilled at some point that liquid gasoline flooded the canister. It takes a long time to dry our after that. Maybe bake it in an oven at 190 degrees for a few hours. But I don't think that would cause it throw a code. If Rich or Kendall or one of you knows better, please jump in.
But I echo what TwoShelbys said: Since its such a simple part with no moving parts, it rarely fails unless physically damaged. IF it is physically damaged, and not squished, you can seal up the cracks with epoxy or some such. One other problem that can occur is if the gas tank was so overfilled at some point that liquid gasoline flooded the canister. It takes a long time to dry our after that. Maybe bake it in an oven at 190 degrees for a few hours. But I don't think that would cause it throw a code. If Rich or Kendall or one of you knows better, please jump in.
twobjshelbys
GT Owner
We'd need to know what code is being set (if any). But the only way the canister can be at fault for a vacuum (slow or fast) leak is if it is physically damaged.
I don't know what this one looks like but on my truck where I chased the evap leaks for about two months the evap vacuum pump attached to the charcoal canister. There were also hoses attached to the canister that can come loose. Any of those hoses being loose will also trigger the code. They were held on by the spring-type hose clamps. I never trust them so backed off the clamp and gave the host a twist and reclamped.
All of these are also usually diagnosed with a smoke test. Was one done on this vehicle? It would be a smoking gun
if the test actually showed leakage at the canister. But I've been driving for lots of years and have never seen one of these fail.
It is true that getting gasoline into the canister (which is always caused by overfilling the gas tank) can cause evap issues. However, I'd be very reluctant to put a gas soaked chunk of charcoal in a plastic container into an oven. Those are often referred to as bombs
I don't know what this one looks like but on my truck where I chased the evap leaks for about two months the evap vacuum pump attached to the charcoal canister. There were also hoses attached to the canister that can come loose. Any of those hoses being loose will also trigger the code. They were held on by the spring-type hose clamps. I never trust them so backed off the clamp and gave the host a twist and reclamped.
All of these are also usually diagnosed with a smoke test. Was one done on this vehicle? It would be a smoking gun
if the test actually showed leakage at the canister. But I've been driving for lots of years and have never seen one of these fail. It is true that getting gasoline into the canister (which is always caused by overfilling the gas tank) can cause evap issues. However, I'd be very reluctant to put a gas soaked chunk of charcoal in a plastic container into an oven. Those are often referred to as bombs
I had the small EVAP leak code on my Lexus. Lexus chased the problem for a few years until a tech finally found it was a filter/line for the gas tank.
I got thru emissions testing by clearing the code immediately before driving thru the testing station and testing before the computer could declare a problem and set the code.
I got thru emissions testing by clearing the code immediately before driving thru the testing station and testing before the computer could declare a problem and set the code.
twobjshelbys
GT Owner
Exactly! I was very close to doing this myself. Clear the code clears all the readiness indicators, but the evap code won't throw until the evap test fails two (three?) times in a row and since it only runs on cold start it's easy to get the rest first. So if you run the drive cycle you can get all but evap ready and most OBDII emissions tests allow one not ready although I heard CA is now moving to disallowing a evap not ready. The down side is that you're left with the CEL on and if a real problem happens it's hidden.
I found my truck one was a faulty new gas cap. I got it from Amazon and replacing the vac pump and purge valve got a new Stant cap. The comments on the Amazon part say I'm not the only one...
PeteK
GT Owner
Okay, Tony, here's the semi-lawyerly language: Use common sense! E.g., if it's dripping gas out, let it stand on one end in the sun for a few days, DON'T do this using a gas oven (or propane torch), etc. I feel safer now.It is true that getting gasoline into the canister (which is always caused by overfilling the gas tank) can cause evap issues. However, I'd be very reluctant to put a gas soaked chunk of charcoal in a plastic container into an oven. Those are often referred to as bombs
2112
Blue/white 06'
It seems the OP is chasing an emissions problem as he was looking for the Purge valve last month
I guess in this scenario, you go down the line until you nail the problem. On his last thread, the first thing I thought of was his fuel fill assembly up front. I remember someone modified an F150 fuel fill assembly years ago to address this issue.
Hope Orcas finds it and shares the solution with us.
I guess in this scenario, you go down the line until you nail the problem. On his last thread, the first thing I thought of was his fuel fill assembly up front. I remember someone modified an F150 fuel fill assembly years ago to address this issue.
Hope Orcas finds it and shares the solution with us.
twobjshelbys
GT Owner
What was the failure symptom of the filler tube assembly seal? I just remember seeing reports that it was somewhat fragile and subject to failure of the gas pump wasn't inserted carefully.
To the OP: Have you had a smoke test done on the system?
2112
Blue/white 06'
Thanks for all your comments and suggestions. The canister filled with gas(car has never been topped off with fuel)and according to the mechanic is not salvageable. He feels it was caused by a faulty purge valve. Thanks to you I now have the purge valve in hand but am seeking the canister charcoal insert. Thank you Tipo874. I will see if Summit or Amazon have the cross referenced part.
Poor idle. (surging). Car would die at a stop light. There was a large number of post about failures. The flapper valve/seal pin would get damaged or back out and the system would not seal. Most where able to replace the part. Being less abrupt/forceful when filling the tank seemed to solve the issue. Some people used the plastic funnel part that came with vehicles when the fuel tank opening size changed years ago, to a smaller opening.
Here is the link to the F-150 fix..
Here is the link to the F-150 fix..
To OP: twobjshelbys has given you the recipe to drive you car while you figure it out. Reset the code, drive with a scanner until there is only one monitor that hasn't cleared, Get the emissions test before the CEL is set for the Evap issue. I did this for years until the leak was big enough to find.
twobjshelbys
GT Owner
I had to check if my GT tune was OBDII emissions test compliant (it wasn't) and bought a bluetooth OBDII reader for $20 on Amazon and use the Torque (Light) and Car Scanner android apps. Torque only runs on android but there are IOS apps too. The apps let you clear codes and monitor the emissions readiness indicators (in real time). The free Torque version actually has some basic real time logging as well.
I actually use it alot more often than I thought. Like I said I went through the evap system on my truck and my daughter just threw a P044 code on hers. I flipped the gasket on the cap (usually works) but it came back and have sent her after a new cap.
The canister shows to be readily available from Ford Parts or discount suppliers on line. You posted an incorrect part number. The correct number is: 4G7Z-9D653-CA.