FRPP Header install question-

[csx289]

For those of you that have installed the FRPP headers, I have a (hopefully) easy question:

Did you use the supplied header bolts for mounting the headers to the cylinder heads, or the factory studs? The bolts that were supplied with my headers did not fit the recessed hole in the header flange, so we used the factory studs and hardware to attach the header. Although everything torqued up to specs and appeared to be perfect, I have what sounds like a small header gasket leak on one side.

It could also be a leak from the slip joint collector, I don't have much faith in that being a good leak proof connection.

If anybody has any thoughts or first hand experience on these headers and the above issues, I'd love some insight.

On a related note (no pun intended), wow, this thing is LOUD with the FRPP shorty headers hooked up to the FRPP muffler! I was expecting a little quieter sound from that big box muffler, but apparently it is not much more than an empty box :biggrin

Thanks,
Colin

 

[EasyEric]

PM forum member Nota4re. He has these installed on his GT and did the install himself.

Eric

 

[nota4re]

Hi Colin,

I think you have the Ford Long Tube Headers (and muffler) and I have the Rear Exit Headers. Nevertheless, I would assume the flanges are the same. My headers shipped with Stage 8 Locking Fasteners. It is impossible to use their locking tabs with the design of the header flange, so I'm not sure what Ford/Borla was thinking. Nevertheless, I chose to use their supplied bolts (sans locking tabs). I too contemplated to re-use the stock studs - but there's a couple of places where I thought that their length would interfere with the header tubes. I checked the torque of all of the header bolts after 5-6 full heat cycles, and found that none of them have loosened.

Regarding your symptom, I would almost think that you can visually check all of your studs to make sure the flange is snugged up against the head and not causing a leak anywhere as a result of a gap.

Not to make you paranoid, but I can't hear any leaking from mine - even from the slip joints.

 

[csx289]

Thanks, that is all good info. We checked the header flanges again, and they are all tight and not leaking. I used the stock studs and everything cleared. Didn't feel comfortable using the supllied hardware because of the lock tab not fitting as you saw. Leave it to Ford :wink

With the engine cold, we ran it and checked by hand for exhaust leaks. The slip joints are leaking a considerable amount on one side, and slightly on the other. So it looks like we will have to pull the pipes back and use some high-temp rtv to seal these slip joints.

My guess is the added back pressure of the muffler would make them leak on my car, and not on yours with just the resonators? I bet your car is really loud with the rear exit headers, have you had any problems on the street, ie, Johnny Law?

Thanks for the reply, much appreciated.

Regards,
Colin

 

[Jason Watt]

I just started my headers install today, and I found the flanges to be less than straight - and I'm talking BIGTIME on the piss :thumbsdow (did you guys check yours?)

I'll post some pictures one of these days...

A friend of mine has installed his headers and he also has the leaking problem, I suspect that it could be from the flanges. Futher more he gets the engine light going off - I read somewhere that we need to do something to the lamda sensors.. But ecactly what to do I don't rember...

Anyone?? :shrug

 

[csx289]

The SCT flash tuner turns off the rear (post-cat) O2 sensors.

I am just hoping that those headers don't have to come out again. You'd think for $2500 they would at least be as good as a $179.99 set of Hooker Headers for a regular old V-8!

Overall, all I can say is that I am not overly impressed with the quality of the FRPP, nor their instructions. How about throwing in a couple of header gaskets with the headers? Little stuff like that goes a long way towards customer satisfaction. At least in my business.

Keep sending those header ideas and experiences....

Colin

 

[nota4re]

I just started my headers install today, and I found the flanges to be less than straight - and I'm talking BIGTIME on the piss (did you guys check yours?)

My flanges were PERFECT - and yes I checked them with a straight edge before install. The flange itself is a cast piece with a lot of ribbing (turned edges) for additive strength. Do you have the Long Tube Headers or the Rear Exit Headers?? (The long tube headers still require you to use a muffler - stock or otherwise.)

 

[Jason Watt]

How about THIS?? :frown

I havn't got a flash unit - and when I ordered the headers I wasn't told that I needed one... hmmmm

I read somewhere that the Viper people had a quick solution using a resister of some sort...

My flanges were PERFECT - and yes I checked them with a straight edge before install. The flange itself is a cast piece with a lot of ribbing (turned edges) for additive strength. Do you have the Long Tube Headers or the Rear Exit Headers?? (The long tube headers still require you to use a muffler - stock or otherwise.)

 

[Jason Watt]

BTW - this is how I fixed it..

 

[californiacuda]

101, are you sure your metric ruler is straight :biggrin

 

[B O N Y]

I would be fit to be tied if I found such sloppy workmanship on a TOP dollar piece, no excuse for that :thumbsdow :bs :thumbsdow

 

[SuperB]

This is AMERICAN engineering, if you want straight you gotta go to Japan or Germany :lol

 

[Jason Watt]

Work is completed and it sounds a little like THIS

 

[Bill Briley]

Damn....makes your Hair stand up !!

 

[B O N Y]

...that wasn't the only thing to stood up for me :willy :willy :willy :willy

 

[Jason Watt]

TOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO Much!!!!

Well - drove withe the Borla can for 2 days and most places I went I had people greeting me with fists in the air as I flew past... ha ha ha. I've put back my original european mufler which together with the headers makes is sound VERY tasty indeed.

For you guys who don't know about the Euro mods in detail, the mufler is fitted with a device looking like this:

It's operated by the engines vacum, so at cruising speed they will be closed and then they open as throttle is applied. The tips are fitted with some sound deadner of some sort.

I realize that this item perhaps steals a bit of horsepower, but for sure the headers makes up for this - and a bit more I would guess...

Dyno figures will follow...