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I just started to hook up the ground and my visual judgement on the bolt was wrong - It is T 27

The wife came to my rescue - Leave Jays device connected to the original ungrouded screw and connect one end of your ground wire with connector to that screw. Run the other end with connector to the Torx bolt - Use the bolt to the right of my black probe wire. I'm going to bed...

I've been short on free time the past week or I would post pictures. Buy a assortment pack of ring terminals(connectors with a hole punched) and use something around 18G wire to bridge the area - crimp or solder the the rings to the wires. I was also hoping for someone to jump in with...

I should have been more specific - There are 2 black Torx bolts on the right of the footwell - that hold the piece of sheet metal that secures the metal base cover to the fuse panel area. They are kind of tucked out of the way on the right side. There are 2 pairs of silver Torx bolts that...

The McIntosh power supply casing is grounded - so you could use the phillips screw at the bottom. All the other Torx bolts in the footwell area are grounded. The only thing not grounded was the original screw that was used and the large hexhead bolt below it. If you use the screw at the...

The other day when I scanned the area, I was thinking that one of the silver torx bolts under the 'fuel reset' emblem - on the left- would work. But I misplaced my digital testing meter, so I can't test it tonight. I will check it out tomorrow, unless someone comes up with another idea.

Thanks, I guess we all assumed there was sheet metal beneath the plastic. I'll get on my knees tomorrow and look for a nearby ground to complete the circuit.

I installed the Stillen X-pipe. Their brackets replace the stock heat shield bracket. With the X-pipe, the exhaust is clear of that area - so no heat shield is needed.

If you find a solution - short of replacement - let us know. Mine are OK , but its just a matter of time.

Right "heat shield" is not used for X pipe. It looks like the car "bottomed out " and bent the 2 rear support brackets below the bumper horns that secure the back side of the rear pan. That could be fixed but it would be wise to pull the rear pan off and check the transmission housing to...

I don't think any of us have any unreasonable expectations. If it gave me a 10% less chance of having a gauge failure, it was worth the investment. If it proves to have no positive results, it was at least worth the try. No one else has stepped forward with an answer

Or - it finally caught up with the valve it was chasing.

Thanks Jay Picked up mine at my house. Haven't been there in a while so it probably had been there a few days. Never had a gauge problem so the timing is great.

Accufab recommends Blue. I'm not saying you can't use Red - You are just going beyond what is recommended by the manufacturer of the bolts. FOR ME - It would not be worth it.

The JB Weld was just an attempt at humor. I just was trying to comment on the down side of too much 'glue'. Eventually someone will have to drop the half-shaft - and they will curse you if they break a bolt or strip the head of the fastener.

I suppose you could use JB Weld if you never thought the parts would have to be taken apart. Red Loctite requires heat to remove the fastener. I think Blue is what is recommended.

Check in the mail Thanks

Count me in - Thanks