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Sort of...ask if you can purchase their solution for the Ford GT cooling challenges at higher RPM/Load. I don't want to give out their design/IP. They saw the problem first hand and found a straight-forward fix. It is not related to fan operation. I believe it is a fix they do for FGT engine...

If you want to stay in the throttle... give Accufab a call and see if they have a solution for you that is relatively inexpensive.

lol...Dr. Frank you're a peach

Ha! depends on the track. Lower profile Sport Cup 2's would be better at most places, but your rough Sebring it is tough to say. Our custom Gen 2 Ahlman Performance Stage II Ohlins TTX's for the FGT were finalized on the bigger sidewall Bridgestones. And we call them Stage II as it is still...

Agreed, well over twice as long for Bohmer and company (Klassless?) to go only 10 more mph at smooth Kennedy Space Center is a long way off of fast compared to M2K's record at the rough Texas Mile...

Huh, my R8 wheel bolts (not studs) are 14 mm and the Audi torque is 90 ft-lb with the stock forged aluminum wheels. I check the torque often and run at the track with significant heat cycles and they never back off at all. I don't understand what has happened on the Ford lug joint design.

OK, thank you. Standard. Do you guys see many lug nut torques over 100 ft-lbs? 150 ft-lbs seems very high.

Yeah we finished 6th in the Kelly Moss Road And Race Brule' 66 Cayman GT4 at VIR (I race engineer for this 3 race GS car - We took 3rd at Road America - The Kohr Stang/Billy Johnson got DQ'd afterward at VIR for much too large of a fuel cell) ...we were poised to finish second at VIR with 5 laps...

Agreed on all...especially your question on their target bolt load (tension). What diameter is the stud? That is a very high lug nut torque. Typical is 90 to 100 ft lbs. If the joint is correct they will not loosen once torqued...unless the torque is actually yielding the stud, the nut or the...

Up to a nearly a trillion reasons! lol ...its too low to be our debt so there's that

I understand fully. I wish I could support you guys with these right now. One of my Forum friends is having me check with another machinist (a many FGT owner with a significant machine shop). Possible, but not probable as our complexity, tight specifications and very limited run (10 sets) is not...

I am very sorry guys. In the past year I cannot find a machinist who will machine to our long standing design and specifications for these safety critical parts. The 3 different Wisconsin machinists we used the past 5 years are booked for about 2 years. And one local guy who quoted early last...

Howard, No, we were not at Limerock. This GS effort was just a mid season three race run...Watkins Glen, Road America and VIR. Scott

Thank you, much!

The same on our shock mounts. I drew the general icon for "SA" and the "AHLMAN" font at 13 years old (I had a little PVC hockey goal company with custom nets)...so 39 years. However, 7 years ago when I started Ahlman Performance I made it the same design as Ahlman Engineering. I cleaned it up...

Absolutely! Glad to keep after it. Just far more painful of a process than it was before this worldwide mess. Yep will keep working with Aaron and his machinist to see if we can get these made within reasonable timing and price.

Hi Guys, I am sorry I have not been here in a while and supply issues are large for this stuff. Been buried with IMSA GT4 stuff also, but my normal machinists have been booked and can't get their time...

Yes I should have mentioned this option (the best alternative to me). Good call.

Correction to above and @GT@50 is correct. The rear lower cross axis joint (at the lower balljoint location) and the outer toe link joint boots were both a different clear rubber. I believe we sourced those both from NMB instead of ZF Lemferder as we did for the rest. Unfortunately, that...

OK just talked to Rich Brooks to remind myself about the coil-over removal. Disconnecting the anti-rollbars makes this possible without prybars...but the front ARB disconnection is a PITA and requires a slim non-standard open end and allen wrench. So Rich agrees with Kendall and uses this prybar...