Clutch and Brake Fluid
- Thread starter MDT
- Start date
Fubar
Totally ****** Up
BlackICE
GT Owner
Shadowman and Shadow Boy came by for a visit and the Shadowman brought some Motul 600 to bleed my clutch. I did the open/close routine while Shadowman did the press/release routine. The clutch line is next to the exhaust so that could be causing a problem for some.
I decided to go with ATE super blue and 200 for brakes and will try the Motive pressure bleeder by myself. The boiling point of the ATE isn't quite as good as the Motul but it has the advantage of different colors so that you know when the entire line is flushed and it cost a bit less too.
After reading this maybe I shouldn't use the Motive
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_brakefluid_1a.shtml
Brake Fluid Dry Boiling Point Wet Boiling Point Suggested List Price
AP SUPER 600 590°F 410°F $18.00/16.9oz. .
CASTROL SRF 590°F 518°F $69.99/33.8oz.
NEO SUPER DOT 610 610°F 421°F $15.00/12oz.
MOTUL RACING 600 593°F 420°F $15.00/16.9oz.
MOTUL DOT 5.1 509°F 365°F $6.50/16.9oz.
ATE SUPER BLUE 536°F 392°F $11.99/33.8oz
VALVOLINE SYNPOWER 503°F 343°F $4.97/16.9oz.
ATE SL 500°F 329°F $7.95/16.9oz.
CASTROL LMA 450°F 311°F $3.50/16.9oz.
AP 551 528°F 288°F $12.50/16.9oz.
Great post!
Thanks.
JJayB
GT Owner
Seems like brake fluid is getting like religion or what's the best oil. I've owned other marque cars where the same discussion got ugly thankfully the FGT forum is civil to one another. Since I'm a new owner I appreciate the information others have contributed and respect those that have personal knowledge first hand. I've always used the expensive stuff (Castrol SRF) for racing and had no issues in porsches but I'm willing to listen to other points of view. I see that some of the racers make a good case for the AP 608.
It seemed to me that the discussion and advertising implied that NASCAR was using AP. I contacted my NASCAR source a former owner and asked whata ya run. He says that some of the teams are running the AP and they seem to be more budget conscious and others are running the Castrol. Then he says run the expensive stuff and pay attention to the wet boiling point numbers if you want to compare. FWIW, I tend to run for the highest use of the car. If i'm doing even a few track events, I go more with a track orientated equipment rather than stretch the street equipment. Looks like I'll remain in the Castrol camp.
It seemed to me that the discussion and advertising implied that NASCAR was using AP. I contacted my NASCAR source a former owner and asked whata ya run. He says that some of the teams are running the AP and they seem to be more budget conscious and others are running the Castrol. Then he says run the expensive stuff and pay attention to the wet boiling point numbers if you want to compare. FWIW, I tend to run for the highest use of the car. If i'm doing even a few track events, I go more with a track orientated equipment rather than stretch the street equipment. Looks like I'll remain in the Castrol camp.
2112
Blue/white 06'
Wwabbit
GT Owner
TO AWSUM
Ford GT Owner
Another month has gone by and still no answer. I guess that must be a fast squirrel. So, do our clutch slaves have any magnesium components that would prevent us from using this AP fluid?
Wwabbit
GT Owner
shesgotlegs
GT Owner
- Jul 20, 2006
- 1,181
Indy GT
Yea, I got one...too
Clutch Fluid Comments
Guys, why is everyone so bore sighted on using the most expensive, exotic brake fluid in our hydraulic CLUTCH circuit?
Yes the clutch line “may” run somewhat close to a heat source (exhaust manifold) but do you actually think the radiant heat energy from this source while driving on a track under high power loads is going to heat up the fluid in a clutch line which happens to be routed “maybe” close to boiling levels? This is certainly a much different fluid environment that that of the fluid in the brake caliper with a hot rotor spinning in between the inboard and outboard caliper sections with heat conduction from the rotor to pads to caliper.
IMO this clutch fluid issue is way over blown. I would be more concerned with time between change outs rather than fluid temperature capability. I think the formation of “snot balls” is a fluid time function issue. Just flush the system out every 18 – 24 months and I think the Motorcraft DOT 3 fluid (12 oz, approx $4.69, minimum wet boil temp 284°F,dry boil temp 500°F ) is probably just fine for most FGT owners who drive and track their vehicle.
http://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubrican...Fluid&category=Brake and Performance Products
Over the years I have talked to engineers who designed (well some of the system components were borrowed from the Aston Martin family) and tested the car for DOT certification. And there was extensive brake testing involved in releasing a 200+ mph vehicle to the public with the Ford Blue Oval prominently affixed. The only fluid used in the full development program was the Motorcraft DOT3 (PM-1C) fluid. And they had no problems with using this fluid in all development/certification testing.
http://www.fordgtforum.com/forums/showthread.php?23724-Motorcraft-Brake-Clutch-fluid-ES-M6C25-A
Guys, why is everyone so bore sighted on using the most expensive, exotic brake fluid in our hydraulic CLUTCH circuit?
Yes the clutch line “may” run somewhat close to a heat source (exhaust manifold) but do you actually think the radiant heat energy from this source while driving on a track under high power loads is going to heat up the fluid in a clutch line which happens to be routed “maybe” close to boiling levels? This is certainly a much different fluid environment that that of the fluid in the brake caliper with a hot rotor spinning in between the inboard and outboard caliper sections with heat conduction from the rotor to pads to caliper.
IMO this clutch fluid issue is way over blown. I would be more concerned with time between change outs rather than fluid temperature capability. I think the formation of “snot balls” is a fluid time function issue. Just flush the system out every 18 – 24 months and I think the Motorcraft DOT 3 fluid (12 oz, approx $4.69, minimum wet boil temp 284°F,dry boil temp 500°F ) is probably just fine for most FGT owners who drive and track their vehicle.
http://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubrican...Fluid&category=Brake and Performance Products
Over the years I have talked to engineers who designed (well some of the system components were borrowed from the Aston Martin family) and tested the car for DOT certification. And there was extensive brake testing involved in releasing a 200+ mph vehicle to the public with the Ford Blue Oval prominently affixed. The only fluid used in the full development program was the Motorcraft DOT3 (PM-1C) fluid. And they had no problems with using this fluid in all development/certification testing.
http://www.fordgtforum.com/forums/showthread.php?23724-Motorcraft-Brake-Clutch-fluid-ES-M6C25-A
Wwabbit
GT Owner
^^^ agree 100%
the only counter is that the clutch system is such low volume that sometimes it's easier just to to use the same fluid everywhere.
the only counter is that the clutch system is such low volume that sometimes it's easier just to to use the same fluid everywhere.
topshot
GT Owner
twobjshelbys
GT Owner
It is real...
The First-Gen Dodge Viper Actually Had Blinker Fluid
Due to a rejected headlight design from BMW and General Electric, the first-generation Dodge Viper had leveling bubbles with fluid in its headlights.
www.thedrive.com
Not that it's servicible
HOOKED ON GT
GT Owner
I just finished a track day at Sebring and use the Castrol SRF for brakes/clutch and its been in there for 3 years (4 track days)
At this Sebring event it began to be too slow on initial brake bite late in the day, so called it quits (disconcerting feeling) and threw it on the trailer and headed back to Orlando.
Ive added Scotts Girodisc to the fronts and rears to come later.
Rear brake temps run way hotter then the fronts (+100 deg)
I working on a way to get some fresh air into rear brakes.
I run the Cooltech trans cooler and a Spec clutch and never had heat invading the clutches function at any time.
Next freshen will be Oil/filter (2,000 miles since last change 15 months ago) and a new dose of brake/clutch fluid.
At this Sebring event it began to be too slow on initial brake bite late in the day, so called it quits (disconcerting feeling) and threw it on the trailer and headed back to Orlando.
Ive added Scotts Girodisc to the fronts and rears to come later.
Rear brake temps run way hotter then the fronts (+100 deg)
I working on a way to get some fresh air into rear brakes.
I run the Cooltech trans cooler and a Spec clutch and never had heat invading the clutches function at any time.
Next freshen will be Oil/filter (2,000 miles since last change 15 months ago) and a new dose of brake/clutch fluid.
2112
Blue/white 06'
Do you have front brake cooling ducts?
Maybe a small air scoop on a couple belly pan bolts could direct some air toward the rear brakes.
MTV8
GT Owner
Since the cooling vanes are directional, any noticeable difference in temperature on the one remaining rotor that faces the opposite direction?