DynoJet Air/Fuel Wide Band Commander installation

[632C2]

I am right in the middle of installing a DynoJet Air/Fuel Wide Band Commander in the Ford GT. I have these in 3 of my other cars and love them.

I am wondering if anyone out there has installed one in their Ford GT yet? If so, I would like to see where you installed the gauge.

With the Whipple installed, I feel this is a critical gauge to have. The hard part was trying to figure out where to mount the gauge. It needs to be easily viewable and I don't want to bugger anything up. That means using nothing but factory holes, etc. Being able to remove it with no "witness" marks is important.

I have it mounted and while it doesn't look "factory stock", I consider it acceptable. The good thing is that DynoJet uses a gauge made by Autometer and although it is only 2-1/16" in diameter, it looks just like the gauges in the Ford GT. I am in the process of finishing up the wiring and will post some pics when I get it finished.

Steve

 

[MAD IN NC]

I have seen installs in GT's where the center air conditioning vent - just right of speedometer is replaced with eitehr a guage (Joe's TT GT) or the navigation unit mount of "heritage bruce". It looks easily removable.

http://www.fordgtforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3753&highlight=navigation

 

[lthlvpr]

While I love the Dynojet Commander, the downside is space for the gauge. That is why I tend to lean toward the low, flat panel, rectangular boxes which can easily mount on top of the steering wheel arm. A few companies make them and one shows both driver and passenger side measurements simultaneously so you can see if one side is leaner than the other.

Otherwise, I would mount it on the A-pillar or center console area.

 

[632C2]

I have seen installs in GT's where the center air conditioning vent - just right of speedometer is replaced with eitehr a guage (Joe's TT GT) or the navigation unit mount of "heritage bruce". It looks easily removable.

Thanks!

While I love the Dynojet Commander, the downside is space for the gauge. That is why I tend to lean toward the low, flat panel, rectangular boxes which can easily mount on top of the steering wheel arm. A few companies make them and one shows both driver and passenger side measurements simultaneously so you can see if one side is leaner than the other.

Otherwise, I would mount it on the A-pillar or center console area.

I do have an Innovate Motorsports box like you describe. The thing I love about the DynoJet Wide Band Commander is the fact that they use an analog gauge to display the A/F. I prefer this over a digital display any day of the week.

The big thing for me is to have it located where I can keep an eye on the gauge and the road. The closer to the steering wheel, the better. The problem with locating something on top of the steering column is that it puts the gauge in the same area as the tachometer.

I will have to throw up a pic tomorrow of my exact location.

Steve

 

[632C2]

Here is the pic of the gauge location:

I have placed it in front of the battery voltage gauge since I consider this the least valuable gauge on the dash. When driving, this gauge is easily in full view. Now, all I have to do is finish up the wiring...

Steve

 

[RWTD]

As some helpful advice for everyone who purchases a WBC, follow my instructions below to get your MAF Voltage and TPS signal hooked up to your WBC. It will allow you and/or your tuner to easily perfect any MAF transfer changes they may need to make. You could also instead just analog out of the WBC, or whatever wideband you may use, into your Xcal2, or both methods, if you so choose, to keep everything on one datalog.

Just download the latest software here: Wide Band Commander - Software Download . The latest software has a section for "analog set up", and you can actually watch the tutorial (http://www.widebandcommander.com/tutorials.htm). There is a gray wire (analog 1), and all you'd have to do is tap into the vehicles MAF signal. Hook up the TPS on "analog 2" (Wide Band Commander - Tech Tips) . When you get things figured out, you can label and display the appropriate channels with MAF_V and TPS (use analog 1 for the MAF Voltage, as if you do not datalog directly to a laptop the WBC will only log analog 1 to its internal memory).

If the pcm pin out is mostly the same in the GT as it is in most other EECV pcm equipped Fords, the MAF wire should be pin #88, and it is a light blue/red striped wire. The TPS wire should be #89, Gray/White striped wire. You should also tap into your RPM lead at the pcm. Coil on plug 1 is pin #26, which should be the same on the GT. I've attached a Mustang pcm pin out diagram for everyone to see (down below), but please verify first it is the same on the GT.

I hope this helps!

Sincerely,

James

 

[632C2]

James,

Thanks for taking the time to post this info. I have the service manual that gives all the pin outs, etc. but am a little apprehensive about splicing into the wiring harness on this car in order to enable the TPS and RPM. I can't stand the way those plastic splice units look.

I am currently using the Wide Band Commander in conjunction with my DynoJet 248c and like the fact that I don't have to install (and then remove) the standard DynoJet O2 sensor.

BTW, any chance you are going to come out with a GT specific "Killer Chiller" kit for the GT?

Steve

 

[RWTD]

James,

Thanks for taking the time to post this info. I have the service manual that gives all the pin outs, etc. but am a little apprehensive about splicing into the wiring harness on this car in order to enable the TPS and RPM. I can't stand the way those plastic splice units look.

Steve,

Not a problem, sir! I'm here to help!

I can't stand those plastic splice connectors either. Short of soldering, another option would be to careful remove the pins at the pcm, get some new pins, carefully undo the wiring from the old pins, and then hook up both wires into a single pin, and plug straight back into the harness. You could remove later should you want. Steve at Tousley Ford can get you the pins quite easily.

I am currently using the Wide Band Commander in conjunction with my DynoJet 248c and like the fact that I don't have to install (and then remove) the standard DynoJet O2 sensor.

Definite big plus!

As for removing the front O2 sensor (can be a PITA!), I bought a nice O2 sensor removal tool. It's basically just a long 7/8" socket with a cutout down the side for the wiring harness to fit into (you can get it at Sears). This easily allows the front O2 sensor to come out. You can then force the car into OL, and tune the WOT. When done, put it back in, and then tweak out the STFTs for idle and part throttle (I always tune from idle to at least 5k rpms for STFTs, this way you can get the entire MAF transfer tuned out). Otherwise, you will be missing a big chuck of the WOT transfer. These methods will allow you to perfect all 30 points on the curve.

Also, when testing WOT, start at 1500 rpms or less, and go immediately WOT (this will not harm the car, trust me. Some are concerned about the car pinging at such low rpm. Well, if they are pinging, this means they didn't tune the spark table properly. The car should never ping, even starting at 1000 rpms in 4th gear, if fueling and spark is proper.

BTW, any chance you are going to come out with a GT specific "Killer Chiller" kit for the GT?

Actually, yes! I just need a guinea pig to come by and let me take measurements for the hose, and find a place to mount the KC core. I'd have to talk to Joe, but if there are any GT owners close to Albuquerque, NM, we could work something out. I'm in Mobile, AL, and there are approx. 4+ GTs within a 100 mile area of me, tho I don't know how many would care to have this system. The KC core can mount anywhere, provided a place that will allow 4 hoses to pass through (1 in and 1 out for refrigerant, and 1 in and 1 out for coolant).

Speaking of, the setups really do work, and are literally awesome! My best friend just did the first Lightning install (yesterday, actually), and his results are amazing (nearly freezing). Here's some pictures:

http://www.putfile.com/evilsvt/images/72082

We'll be putting up datalogs and dyno testing results next weekend. Even without raising spark or boost, just the "2nd order effect" gains should prove this system to be worthwhile (as in the efficiency gained by the blower; less drive power to spin it, due to the cooler temps), plus the added safety margin this gives.

Now, I don't want to get in trouble here with advertising, as I promised I wouldn't do it. Since it is 2007, I am now eligible to become an advertiser here, so I do plan on doing that very soon (within the next 30 to 60 days). The Admin sent me all the information a couple of weeks ago, and I look forward to joining everyone here.

Steve, are you the gent that BJ has been telling me about? Let me know if I can help you with anything!

Sincerely,

James

 

[632C2]

I can't stand those plastic splice connectors either. Short of soldering, another option would be to careful remove the pins at the pcm, get some new pins, carefully undo the wiring from the old pins, and then hook up both wires into a single pin, and plug straight back into the harness. You could remove later should you want. Steve at Tousley Ford can get you the pins quite easily.

Great idea! I will investigate it a little further.

As for removing the front O2 sensor (can be a PITA!), I bought a nice O2 sensor removal tool. It's basically just a long 7/8" socket with a cutout down the side for the wiring harness to fit into (you can get it at Sears). This easily allows the front O2 sensor to come out. You can then force the car into OL, and tune the WOT. When done, put it back in, and then tweak out the STFTs for idle and part throttle (I always tune from idle to at least 5k rpms for STFTs, this way you can get the entire MAF transfer tuned out). Otherwise, you will be missing a big chuck of the WOT transfer. These methods will allow you to perfect all 30 points on the curve.

Also, when testing WOT, start at 1500 rpms or less, and go immediately WOT (this will not harm the car, trust me. Some are concerned about the car pinging at such low rpm. Well, if they are pinging, this means they didn't tune the spark table properly. The car should never ping, even starting at 1000 rpms in 4th gear, if fueling and spark is proper.

I use the rearmost O2 position. The PCM doesn't throw any error codes and since I now have the Wideband Commander installed, I am able to permanently leave the O2 sensor in that position. I have a similar routine to dial in the STFTs as you have outlined but I only go to 3500 rpm. Once I am satisfied with the STFTs being within +/- 5% of a value of 1, I start the dyno runs on the DynoJet.

Actually, yes! I just need a guinea pig to come by and let me take measurements for the hose, and find a place to mount the KC core. I'd have to talk to Joe, but if there are any GT owners close to Albuquerque, NM, we could work something out. I'm in Mobile, AL, and there are approx. 4+ GTs within a 100 mile area of me, tho I don't know how many would care to have this system. The KC core can mount anywhere, provided a place that will allow 4 hoses to pass through (1 in and 1 out for refrigerant, and 1 in and 1 out for coolant).

I think the demand for the system will be based on positive results and a VERY clean installation.

We'll be putting up datalogs and dyno testing results next weekend. Even without raising spark or boost, just the "2nd order effect" gains should prove this system to be worthwhile (as in the efficiency gained by the blower; less drive power to spin it, due to the cooler temps), plus the added safety margin this gives.

I hope the results are better than the ones I got from testing the GMS coil packs.:ack Seriously though, Ford GT owners are spoiled by the huge leaps in power that this platform is able to deliver with relative ease. Just tuning the stock PCM gained me an additional 40+ rwhp and a simple swap to the Whipple supercharger gained me an additional 200 rwhp.

Steve, are you the gent that BJ has been telling me about? Let me know if I can help you with anything!

Yes I am. Maybe you can talk B.J. into using his car as the guinea pig!

BTW, where do you find all your time to run your tuning shop as well as help everyone on the different forums? I have a feeling it is called "no sleep".

Steve