over at corvette road racing forum, this is generally thought of to be a waste of time.
Yup, 100% that is what they say. That is because we can buy NAPA rotors for $25 each front and rear. It's more cost effective to use them than to cryo. When the rotors are more expensive, the game changes.
I have been down both roads. But I do not like the extra labor of swapping the rotors all the time. I generally get 5-6 weekends from the cryo ones. But they are about $120.00 each for a Vette. They start with a better rotor as well. I thought the first set was going to go forever vs. the OEM/NAPA ones. But I finally cracked a rear rotor. I always carry spares and put the NAPA's on. They were toast in 1.5 days.
There are schools of thought on Cryo. Some like it for trans parts, axles, rods and other gear. The extra hardness makes them stonger in some stress applications.
The rotor itself will become harder, meaning the brake pad may not grip as quickly. We did this test with Performace Friction for Cop car replacement rotors and pads. On the dyno, that was true, but the gap was real small. If you were to use a more aggressive pad it's comes back and under in bite. So, since you are using a more aggressive Hawk pad you should be fine.
Just a couple thoughts on the vibration.
1. Bedding the pads is a big deal with race pads as they are not cured like OEM or typical street pads.
2. Were the same rotors run with two different pad materials?.
3. If 1 or 2. ICE may have the fix as the material left on/in the rotor is causing the vibration. It is more of a skipping/sliding action vs. a run out issue. The two materials do not like each other very much. You could have someone check run out on the car. If not run out, it is the material issue.
4. To solve 3. a very light scuff on a well calibrated lathe should clean them up and you can check run out on the lathe. Warning, 98% of all shops never calibrate and lathe and have no clue how to do it. This is an art from and they will spend about $400 to have it done. One of my guys teaches this.
5. At 170 mph run out is a huge issue. GM specs are just .03 on about everything they build. Guys with air guns on lug nuts are not your friends. Torque by hand in the star pattern. Clean up any rust or corrosion on the Hubs with a roloc disc and the back of the rotor.
Note on Trust: I have a reputable corvette shop flush my system once in awhile for track prep as I get in a jamb for time. It requires a GM tech2 scan tool I do not have. As he put the stuff back on, he slammed the lugs with an air gun and not torque stick. He knows better, and was just lazy. I just happened to walk in while he was doing it. He then see's me, and grabs the torque wrench to verify like nothing happened or he had the gun on low. They click easy, I grab the wrench and they click easy at 135 ft lbs as well. :frown
If you want to send me the bad set of Ford Racing Rotors or stock rotors I can check them and tell you the real story. I can turn this around in about 2 weeks, depending on my travel schedule. PM me if interested or give me a phone # and I can call. And yes, if they can be cleaned up and trued up you can run them again. I am curious to see what is causing the problem. In either case keep us posted as to what you find.
