Running Hot

[Bman33]

good info, great thread!! :thumbsup

 

[Michael Murray]

new ford exhaust system

I just ordered new stainless steel headers with the muffler in the 3" exhaust pipe from my dealer.

M-9430-GTX header& muffler $4495.00
BBK-1675 catalyst eliminator 109.00
labor not to exceed 800.00

Dealer gave me 10% off on parts, they'll be here in a week. Benefits, less weight, less heat, more power and a healthier sound. I'll post pictures of the system before install and after. These parts are not in the book yet.

Shoboat

 

[AMB]

I am a SCT Pro-Racer !! I have a SCT Xcalibrator 2 Programmer using their Advantage III software. I can set the on/off temps. for the fans etc. I can change anything in the computer under the SCT Advantage III software.

AMB

 

[nota4re]

For significant reductions try the Ida Automotive exhaust.

TrackDay, I enjoy your posts a lot and I find them quite informative. However, I must admit to having my fill of your advocacy of the Ida exhaust... Please wait at least to you have installed it and witnessed the results before you are recommending it as the cure-all for the high engine temps. I don't mean to offend but your advocacy does not yet have pragmatic credibility..... and as I have said before - I hope you will be right and I look forward to your experiences when installed. Summer is coming and the roads are waiting!

 

[Bart Carter]

While your observations are appreciated unfortunately its comparing apples and bananas.

Just about everyone who tracks the GT has the same high temp issues. Several have similar problems driving the car in traffic or just driving their car. Thus the two vehicles can't be objectively compared IMO.

A front engine car is also different and Cobras have air circulation in the engine compartment/bay which the GT doesn't.

Dave

Dave,

I wasn't comparing a Cobra to a GT. I was comparing the efficiency of water to a anti-freeze mix. The water is more efficient. Add water wetter and it is even better. My Cobra has what is basically a Cup engine, 690 HP and 8,000 RPM. It needs to shed a bunch of heat and using water instead of anti-freeze helps a lot. Many tracking their cars have seen 20 degrees or more drop in coolant temperatures when using water/water wetter mixtures.

My GT is on order so I can't do any testing until I get it. But I will as soon as it arrives. :biggrin

 

[nota4re]

While your observations are appreciated unfortunately its comparing apples and bananas.

Dave, I respectfully disagree. While you're right in that we cannot make cooling comparisons to another automobile, Bart makes the very valid points that a higher % of water and the addition of commonly available water Wetter will both help the cooling efficiency in ANY car. Would it be enough to solve the GT temps? Probably not. However, for those that routinely track their cars, these changes might be worth a few degrees and therefore advantagous. As Bart points out, you do need to keep track of the antifreeze ratio so that you do not reduce your boiling points too much.

Higher water % = Better Cooling Effciciency (a good thing)
Higher water % = Reduced boiling point (typically a bad thing)

 

[barondw]

Bart & Nota4re

I guess that is what makes horse racing, or in this case GT racing, having different opinions and beliefs. That's what makes things interesting.

As to water wetter I have heard good things and I have heard horrible things about it.

Dave

 

[TrackDay]

Dave, I too have heard mixed things about water wetter. However, gave it a try anyway in my GT (with standard coolant mixtures) and did not see any significant improvement to the engine temperatures.
Basically still use my car on the street so want to keep the standard coolant mixture and need some kind of “muffler / baffle” to keep sound levels reasonable to maintain tags on my GT.
How about it guys any one else out there have any data showing significant temperature reduction under track conditions or for extended slow moving traffic?

 

[dbtgt]

Dave, I respectfully disagree. While you're right in that we cannot make cooling comparisons to another automobile, Bart makes the very valid points that a higher % of water and the addition of commonly available water Wetter will both help the cooling efficiency in ANY car. Would it be enough to solve the GT temps? Probably not. However, for those that routinely track their cars, these changes might be worth a few degrees and therefore advantagous. As Bart points out, you do need to keep track of the antifreeze ratio so that you do not reduce your boiling points too much.

Higher water % = Better Cooling Effciciency (a good thing)
Higher water % = Reduced boiling point (typically a bad thing)

Ford specifically warns against using anything other than a 50/50 mixture of Motorcraft Premium Gold engine coolant and specifically states that in extremely hot climates it is still necessary to maintain coolant concentrations above 40% or engine damage from corrosion may result! :eek

 

[50 BMG]

How about it guys any one else out there have any data showing significant temperature reduction under track conditions or for extended slow moving traffic?

Evans NPG+ is what the serious street and track guys in 03/04 Cobra's use. If it's legal for your track/race series and your car isn't exposed to under freezing temps I'd seriously check into it. You'll have to blow out the factory fluid which is just crap for a serious driver anyways, but the results are well worth the 150 bucks for a flush job and 4 gallons of coolant.

My 04 cobra flows over 90 gpm (which is double the factory output); not sure what the GT flow rate is. Anyways, down here in Phoenix last summer I beat on my car doing repeated 40-140 blasts. The temps don't get above 200 unless I have the AC on or come to a complete stop after a pull and let it idle.



As far as the water wetter, I personally only use that for the supercharger fluid in low amounts (although I have a 7 gallon intercooler fluid reservoir). Water wetter = surfacant = basically dawn hand soap.

 

[Neilda]

Trackday - that's very good to hear about the now dry vent, thanks for that. My transaxle rad is on order and hopefully will come to the UK before my summer 2,000 drive in August....

I find the 'hard users' insights extremely useful - those that track their cars or attempt hard quarter mile runs etc. Whilst I might not do the same in mine, it's always encouraging to hear how stable and bullet proof the GT is.

 

[Derry]

I am new to the forum and am waiting for my GT. I have the VIN number but not a build date yet. I currently have a modified C5 (460 RWHP) and previously a ZR1 corvette. I ran Redline water wetter in both and reduced heavy traffic and track temps by 20%. Has anyone tried this? Any fears of adding the wetter? Thanks.

Derry

 

[Fords4life351]

Ford specifically warns against using anything other than a 50/50 mixture of Motorcraft Premium Gold engine coolant and specifically states that in extremely hot climates it is still necessary to maintain coolant concentrations above 40% or engine damage from corrosion may result! :eek

Thats what Water Wetter is intended for, to be mixed with straight water and prevent corrosion in the water jackets of the Engine as well as the rest of the system. But as others have pointed out if you're living in a weather climate with temperatures reaching below freezing you'll want to keep you 50/50 mix.

 

[Derry]

I added the water wetter to the 50-50 coolant water mix. The instructions did not phrobit thisand the temps did drop. It is made for aluminum blocks.

 

[B O N Y]

I added the water wetter to the 50-50 coolant water mix. The instructions did not phrobit thisand the temps did drop. It is made for aluminum blocks.

I am a believer in water wetter, but for everyone how uses it there are five guys how say it is hogwash. I have done tests and am convinced it is the way to go.

 

[MAD IN NC]

I also have a 69 Mach1 thats been punched up and it run HOT! Tried adding a triple core radiator with some miniomal improvement but worked best was waterweter which took 30 degrees out.

Like Bony :cheers - I use Waterweter! Haven't thought about it yet in the GT but I'm sure that by the time the Detroit trip hits it will be added..

 

[analogdesigner]

Cooling system notes, Water Wetter

I used to have serious cooling problems with my 535 HP supercharged 1923 Ford Model-T roadster. One thing that made the greatest improvement was using straight water (demineralized) plus Water Wetter (I use two containers). Ethylene Glycol (anti-freeze) is about the worse thing you can add to a cooling system from a cooling performance perspective. It has lousy cooling properties, however, it's necessary as an anti-freeze for many regions of the world. Anti-freeze and Water Wetter both contain additives which reduce electrolysis. This is due to the coolant being in constant contact with dissimilar metals within the cooling system (brass, copper, iron, steel, etc., I know this is off the subject). I use Water Wetter in all of my cars and I usually double-up on the suggested amount. I live in Southern California and do not need to be concerned with freezing temperatures. Under pressure, pure water still has a fairly high boiling point. Why do you think that NASCAR engines are running caps with a >22 PSI relief rating! This means that they are sometimes running their water (and engine) very hot.

Turning the cooling fans on at a lower temperature will not do anything beneficial on the track. It could help on the street by limiting the peak temperature, especially in stop and go driving conditions when the ambient temperature is not too high, say <100 degrees.

Doing an oil analysis on a car that's been "tracked" at 230-240 F, versus a car that's been driven in stop and go traffic at 230-240 F should give different results. I would expect the tracked car to contain much more metal contamination in the oil due to the higher stress levels when pushing everything to the limits. Oil in any car that has been operating at higher temperatures should be replaced more frequently. This is referred to in some owner's manuals as severe driving conditions.

A few GT unrelated notes on cooling engines. NEVER remove the thermostat from your car's cooling system! The car's cooling system was designed with this component within the cooling system path. It is usually a dominant restriction in the system and can prevent the water pump from cavitating on older engine designs, i.e. the SB Chevy. Newer, more efficient water pump designs are more immune to cavitation. NEVER use more 50% ethylene glycol unless you live in very cold temperatures. Your cooling system actually works more efficiently when the coolant is as hot as possible. However, higher temperatures have adverse effects as all of you have discussed.

So, for best cooling performance, use straight (demineralized) water with a product such as Water Wetter. Your engine will run cooler because you are eliminating the ethylene glycol (anti-freeze). Just don't let things get too cold... meaning below freezing!

WARNING! Do not use straight water with WaterWetter in any cooling system that is exposed to magnesium! If you have any magnesium in your system, you must use anti-freeze!

So, does anyone know if there's any exposed magnesium in our GT's cooling system?

One final note, I had used Water Wetter in my '83 DeLorean from about 1986. When I pulled the intake manifold about 15 years later, the water cooling passages were immaculate! Not a trace of corrosion.

 

[LEMANSZ]

Jay, I got a headche listening to you...(brilltant as youa re)

 

[analogdesigner]

Blah! Blah!...

Yeah, I'm sorry. After fighting cooling problems for over 10 years, I just had to share some of life's experiences!

Jay, I got a headche listening to you...(brilltant as youa re)

 

[nota4re]

Jay,

Very informative. When are we going to see the little blue engine light in production or did it go the way of our beloved Spiderman?