Problems starting the engine
- Thread starter Fubar
- Start date
- Aug 25, 2006
- 4,436
Thank you
Now with the OEM throttle body in place this reduces the options.
I asked once before; any check engine light and or have you had the opportunity to look for codes with the nand scanner?
FYI: I went through a similar situation on my personal gal when she only had 100 miles on her and found it most frustrating as such when time permits I intend on designing a filler cap setup that will cure this once and for all as I have several DOA filler assemblies to work with in my facility.
Chats soon
Shadowman
- Aug 25, 2006
- 4,436
So the fact that it has not thrown another code is unusual however not without history
The P1000 code is as follows;
Ford OBD-II Trouble Code P1000 = OBD-II Monitor Testing Incomplete
Typically this will mean that the gal is not in OBD II readty mode meaning that one or more of the systems has not checked in and happy.
I just looked in my programming software and it is a code that can be disabled however there is no clear description
Here is what I would say;
1. ground issue = no
2. general electrical issue = no
3. condition of fuel issue = no
4. spark plugs = no
5. coils = no
6. general air flow into and around the intake = no
Now having said this I would say that the number of possibilities are minimal;
1. fuel filler tube assembly = maybe and most likely
2. IAC valve = possible but would remain low on my list
3. throttle switch = possiblke but would remain low on my list
4. pcv valve = possible but would remain low on my list
I am simply attempting to walk the distance with you
Regards
Shadowman
cobrar1339
GT Owner
Sorry to but in.
If the tune is in a hand held tuner. Your OEM tune should be in there now. It can be reloaded to determine if this is the issue.
If the tune was for a pulley, remember the problem described was not when you were in boost. You could load the stock tune and drive easy out of boost to see if the OEM tune cured it.
You should not hurt anything as long as you do not get into boost.
If the tune was not loaded like this and it has been this way since day 1, then yes it could be the tune IMO.
If the tune is in a hand held tuner. Your OEM tune should be in there now. It can be reloaded to determine if this is the issue.
If the tune was for a pulley, remember the problem described was not when you were in boost. You could load the stock tune and drive easy out of boost to see if the OEM tune cured it.
You should not hurt anything as long as you do not get into boost.
If the tune was not loaded like this and it has been this way since day 1, then yes it could be the tune IMO.
- Aug 25, 2006
- 4,436
No
I say this because shortly after you fire the gal she goes into closed loop mode and there she remains during her normal drive cycles. The only time she is operated in a place that is tweaked by the tuner is while in open loop. No one typically tweak the closed loop variables; now having shared this if one did is it possible however I would be both surprised and then suspect of the tuner unless such was done to compensate for a specific exotic fuel.
Now as for the idle, it is a fixed point as such you can define it to be whatever you desire as an example I twist the gals up to closer to 750-775 RPM rather that the extremely low OEM idle however I do so not because of poor idle but rather because I feel that the motor sounds better and tends to be a bit crisper off idle.
Until you correct the problem I would not encourage this as it would be akin to a patch-work quilt.
Now lastly; as I recall you installed a pulley or ?? on your gal correct? If this is the case you can simply return the PCM programming to OEM and drive her to confirm as long as you drive her modestly; NO WOT throttle pulls and this too will validate another item.
Standing by
Shadowman
hmmm I need to check and see if the stock tune is still there in the handheld tuner. I dont think it is. Pretty sure Hennessey only has their tune on there.
Oh well, its going to be in the 20s the next couple of days. Will drive the car on Sunday and update.
thanks
Oh well, its going to be in the 20s the next couple of days. Will drive the car on Sunday and update.
thanks
- Aug 25, 2006
- 4,436
It has to be there; the process of loading a tune whether with the SCT or the Predator is the same and both have the return to stock feature
I will await your update in a few days
All the best
Shadowman
- Aug 25, 2006
- 4,436
No worries and you are likely correct
The SCT will hold 3 custom tunes however the OEM tune is automatic and can not be viewed.
When you hook it up and look at the menu you will see the return to stock or ?? option at which point you press select and walk through the steps as the menu defines. Then once you have done the drive test you can reload the custom tune which will be the one as you described and it will be as if you did NADA.
If any questions just let me know
Takes care
Shadowman
- Aug 25, 2006
- 4,436
update: well Ive driven the car on 4 seperate occassions and it hasnt died while driving yet. However, I just got back from lunch. Parked the car outside in the sun and when I came back to restart it, it died. Restarted it again and it wanted to die. Held the rpms at 700 and then it idled fine and didnt give me any trouble on the way home.
damnit
come to think of the it, the last time it died was also when i parked it outside at chipotle during lunch. damn u chipotle.
damnit
come to think of the it, the last time it died was also when i parked it outside at chipotle during lunch. damn u chipotle.
Empty Pockets
ex-GT Owner
Like th' ol' joke: "Doc, it HURTS when I do this."
"Well then! Don't DO that!"
STAY AWAY FROM CHIPOTLE. Pblm solved...
ok im a little concerned. i looked inside both openings and didnt see any filter. stuck my hand all the way down in there and didnt even feel anything.
edit: reached around inside and upward in the airbox and did feel a webbing so some kind of filter is in there. do i need to disconnect the maf to take off the airbox?
Last edited:
Yep. Two screws on each side of the box. The MAF connection and loosen the ring clamp at the top. The whole box comes out then you will need to turn it over and unscrew all of the hex screws (I would lay a towel down so you don't damage the "FORD GT" graphics on the top side).