Superformance or Race Car Replicas GT40
- Thread starter djs
- Start date
mardyn
GT Owner
Both are good choices... want originality? go with the SPF, want the coolest aluminum chassis with a bunch of beautiful CNCd parts, RCR has it down to a science.
I might lean a bit towards the SPF as they're pretty much assembled, painted, & ready to go.. just add your own power and a T/A and hit the road... but I'm sure RCR could work up a similar deal for the right dough.
mardyn
I might lean a bit towards the SPF as they're pretty much assembled, painted, & ready to go.. just add your own power and a T/A and hit the road... but I'm sure RCR could work up a similar deal for the right dough.
mardyn
gtinmyblood
GT Owner
Talk to TeamJeff on this forum. He's in Phoenix and has a really nice superformance GT 40. He is a wealth of information and a really nice guy.
Nathan
Nathan
B O N Y
MODERATOR & FGT OWNER
Gordo has a CAV.
Superformance is a quality piece. Visited Jimmy Price 's factory in Port Elizabeth.
Jeff tracks his car, as does Gordo so they should be very helpful.
Superformance is a quality piece. Visited Jimmy Price 's factory in Port Elizabeth.
Jeff tracks his car, as does Gordo so they should be very helpful.
Jones
GT Owner
Silverbullitt
GT Owner
If you love near DFW there is a SPF showroom in Plano. Lookup Kieth Craft Engines. The dealer is in the same facility. They brought a black one down to Austin last march for the Texas Cobra annual event. It looked perfect and can probably spank my stock GT since it is so light.
ByeEnzo
GT
GT40s.com has all the lowdown on SPF and RCR recreations of the GT40. Lots of info on members' cars including some of the headaches associated with getting one built and track worthy. I looked at an SPF Mk II roller in Plano, TX. The car was extremely tight for me with a helmet on, even with the bubble. At 6'4" I would have to really thin down the padding in the seat. I think one of these would go like stink since they weigh in at about 2200 lbs. as I recall.
GT38
GT Owner
+1 on talking to Team Jeff re the Superformance GT40. He knows the car very well both mechanically and on the track, and can give you some helpful suggestions if you decide to go the SPF route - particularly important if you're going to track the car. The key is to get the roller completed and sorted by someone who is out in front on the learning curve. Not all SPF dealers/completion shops are equal. Factory build quality is excellent, but remember that it's built just like the original was 40+ years ago. If properly completed the SPF GT40 is a lot of bang for the buck. Just like the original GT40s, it's a no-nonsense street-legal race car that's a real brute compared to the GT.
Real-world actual weight of a fully completed and sorted SPF GT40 MkII with a small-block carbureted 427 (351W), LHD with cable-shift RBT is 2,395# (of course this can vary +/- a few pounds depending on which induction system, tires & wheels, etc. you would choose). A MkI RHD sill-shift ZF should be very close to the same weight. Add full fuel (22.5 gal/135#) and a 200# driver, and you're at 2,730# ready to roll. Flywheel HP for the 427 will be about 550, resulting in just under 5.0#/hp - compared to about 6.6#/HP for a stock GT in the same configuration. Accelerating side-by-side on the track, the SPF GT40 and the GT with pulley & tune and Ford Racing muffler are very closely matched, with perhaps a slight edge going to the GT.
If you're over 6' tall and are wearing a helmet, you will need the bubble or will have to remove the seats at the track - or both. The seats come out easily. Jeff & I are both 6'-1", and will fit (just barely) with a helmet, no bubble, and fire-retardant foam in lieu of the factory seat - and it's actually comfortable. You absolutely need to make sure you will fit in the car before you buy it!
Real-world actual weight of a fully completed and sorted SPF GT40 MkII with a small-block carbureted 427 (351W), LHD with cable-shift RBT is 2,395# (of course this can vary +/- a few pounds depending on which induction system, tires & wheels, etc. you would choose). A MkI RHD sill-shift ZF should be very close to the same weight. Add full fuel (22.5 gal/135#) and a 200# driver, and you're at 2,730# ready to roll. Flywheel HP for the 427 will be about 550, resulting in just under 5.0#/hp - compared to about 6.6#/HP for a stock GT in the same configuration. Accelerating side-by-side on the track, the SPF GT40 and the GT with pulley & tune and Ford Racing muffler are very closely matched, with perhaps a slight edge going to the GT.
If you're over 6' tall and are wearing a helmet, you will need the bubble or will have to remove the seats at the track - or both. The seats come out easily. Jeff & I are both 6'-1", and will fit (just barely) with a helmet, no bubble, and fire-retardant foam in lieu of the factory seat - and it's actually comfortable. You absolutely need to make sure you will fit in the car before you buy it!
Kingman
GT Owner
Team Jeff
GT Owner
- Sep 8, 2007
- 559
Djs,
While I have no experience with the RCR it appears to be a fantastic piece of machinery (art) that is as capable, or more capable on the track as any GT40.
The SPF is an extremely accurate reproduction and a great track & weekend car. A friend of mine who has, and may still maintain 1075 was impressed by the accuracy of the SPF and commented about how after working on it he really liked it & appreciated the accuracy in production. Your wise to get a rhd version with sill shift, the cable in my opinion while certainly functional and competent on the street can be vague and potentially expensive at the track.
I love the raw race car feeling... it's almost the polar opposite of the GT. Both are incredible cars, just different enough to justify having one or more of each! :biggrin There is a absolute gold mine of information on GT40s.com, not quite the caliber of this site... but close :wink.
For track days all the SPF needs a brake pad upgrade, a good alignment, and a fire extinguisher. For a more experienced or aggressive driver; Tires- Avons or equivalent, don't bother with the Yokohama Avids, sway bar fix- read about that on GT40s.com, dampers- the stockers are sealed, non adjustable, non rebuildable and imo are way to cushy/loose for track use. I was particularly dissatisfied and uncomfortable with the rebound rate in the rear. We ended up replacing them with a set of double adjustable QA1's and are happy with them.
Don't expect the SPF to compare to a modern car in terms of driveability and reliability. There will always be some little rattle, squeak, adjustment, or quirkiness of some sort that needs to be dealt with (as with any vehicle of this sort) but in my opinion that just adds to the experience of a car like this. Fun if your a nuts and bolts kinda guy! :thumbsup Potentially expensive if your picky and want someone else to do the work.
While I have no experience with the RCR it appears to be a fantastic piece of machinery (art) that is as capable, or more capable on the track as any GT40.
The SPF is an extremely accurate reproduction and a great track & weekend car. A friend of mine who has, and may still maintain 1075 was impressed by the accuracy of the SPF and commented about how after working on it he really liked it & appreciated the accuracy in production. Your wise to get a rhd version with sill shift, the cable in my opinion while certainly functional and competent on the street can be vague and potentially expensive at the track.
I love the raw race car feeling... it's almost the polar opposite of the GT. Both are incredible cars, just different enough to justify having one or more of each! :biggrin There is a absolute gold mine of information on GT40s.com, not quite the caliber of this site... but close :wink.
For track days all the SPF needs a brake pad upgrade, a good alignment, and a fire extinguisher. For a more experienced or aggressive driver; Tires- Avons or equivalent, don't bother with the Yokohama Avids, sway bar fix- read about that on GT40s.com, dampers- the stockers are sealed, non adjustable, non rebuildable and imo are way to cushy/loose for track use. I was particularly dissatisfied and uncomfortable with the rebound rate in the rear. We ended up replacing them with a set of double adjustable QA1's and are happy with them.
Don't expect the SPF to compare to a modern car in terms of driveability and reliability. There will always be some little rattle, squeak, adjustment, or quirkiness of some sort that needs to be dealt with (as with any vehicle of this sort) but in my opinion that just adds to the experience of a car like this. Fun if your a nuts and bolts kinda guy! :thumbsup Potentially expensive if your picky and want someone else to do the work.
FB GT40
GT Owner/B.o.D
Gt 40
I'm writing this from Cape Town, South Africa - having just spent 3 days at the Killarney Circuit. Used my CAV GT-40 as the pace car (Also a new Galardo!) for several of the races this week-end. Did not race the GT-40 - as it's a street car - simply not competitive. For my money as a street car - I'd go with the CAV - but, if you are going to track the car, I buy an SPF from Dennis Olthoff. He's (and his late Dad) as good as it gets in setting these up. And set-up is critical. Dennis is a driver and good race tech. By the way - Sarel van der Merwe (ex-Daytona Champ) drove the wheels off an old 7-liter 1963 Galaxie against an 1967 Camaro driven by a scrappy Brit in a very entertaining race. B-16's Chevrons right behind...
By the way - Lord Irvin Laidlaw (908 Porsche, Brabham F-Jr. and a Ferriari 312P) was here too - and tomorrow will be loading his 3 cars into (yes, into) his personal Boeing 737 for transport to East London, South Africa for next week's four wheel party...'a'int life grand? :cheers
I'm writing this from Cape Town, South Africa - having just spent 3 days at the Killarney Circuit. Used my CAV GT-40 as the pace car (Also a new Galardo!) for several of the races this week-end. Did not race the GT-40 - as it's a street car - simply not competitive. For my money as a street car - I'd go with the CAV - but, if you are going to track the car, I buy an SPF from Dennis Olthoff. He's (and his late Dad) as good as it gets in setting these up. And set-up is critical. Dennis is a driver and good race tech. By the way - Sarel van der Merwe (ex-Daytona Champ) drove the wheels off an old 7-liter 1963 Galaxie against an 1967 Camaro driven by a scrappy Brit in a very entertaining race. B-16's Chevrons right behind...
By the way - Lord Irvin Laidlaw (908 Porsche, Brabham F-Jr. and a Ferriari 312P) was here too - and tomorrow will be loading his 3 cars into (yes, into) his personal Boeing 737 for transport to East London, South Africa for next week's four wheel party...'a'int life grand? :cheers
B O N Y
MODERATOR & FGT OWNER
Great advise Gord! Olthoff was an amazing driver, may he RIP!
Sounds like some great vintage racing taking place in S.A.
Wish I was there!
Sounds like some great vintage racing taking place in S.A.
Wish I was there!
J. Salmon
Member
I am building an RCR, and I seriously considered a SPF. I think the previous comments here are spot on.
The SPF is much more a replica and is meant to be very, very close to the original. Since it is a rolling chassis, the quality is very high but you only have a limited number of options. The drivetrain is more limited but is original (Ford motor, many are sourced from Roush). Understand that the only transaxle is going to be the ZF or an equivalent (such as the newly designed ZFQ from quaife or the RBT). These can be very hard to source and have delayed cars, sometimes near to two years. As mentioned, it is VERY important to have someone who knows what they are doing complete the drivetrain installation. Olthoff is one of the best, and you'd be silly to go anywhere else if you are on the east coast.
I ultimately went with the RCR for two main reasons: I wanted a more modern car and I wanted much more flexibility in my options. The body is a Mark I, with molds taken directly off an original. At that point, originality pretty much goes out the window. It is an aluminum mono, with billet aluminum suspension arms, modern geometry, double adjustable QA1 shocks, Wilwood race brakes with Nascar rotors, and a unique drivetrain. I wanted a readily available bullet-proof transaxle, so I went with the Ricardo that you know and love. I am mating that to an LS7, partly because the GM block is short enough to let the Ricardo fit, and partly because it is a crate motor with all the boxes checked (all aluminum, dry sump, Ti rods, Ti valves, 7k rpms, 500+ hp, near to 500 ft/lbs).
RCR will do and has done turn-key cars. You will lose some originality and you will not have a continuation VIN (which is purely marketing if you ask me). But the options are much more varied and the car is less expensive (probably about 20k less).
The SPF is much more a replica and is meant to be very, very close to the original. Since it is a rolling chassis, the quality is very high but you only have a limited number of options. The drivetrain is more limited but is original (Ford motor, many are sourced from Roush). Understand that the only transaxle is going to be the ZF or an equivalent (such as the newly designed ZFQ from quaife or the RBT). These can be very hard to source and have delayed cars, sometimes near to two years. As mentioned, it is VERY important to have someone who knows what they are doing complete the drivetrain installation. Olthoff is one of the best, and you'd be silly to go anywhere else if you are on the east coast.
I ultimately went with the RCR for two main reasons: I wanted a more modern car and I wanted much more flexibility in my options. The body is a Mark I, with molds taken directly off an original. At that point, originality pretty much goes out the window. It is an aluminum mono, with billet aluminum suspension arms, modern geometry, double adjustable QA1 shocks, Wilwood race brakes with Nascar rotors, and a unique drivetrain. I wanted a readily available bullet-proof transaxle, so I went with the Ricardo that you know and love. I am mating that to an LS7, partly because the GM block is short enough to let the Ricardo fit, and partly because it is a crate motor with all the boxes checked (all aluminum, dry sump, Ti rods, Ti valves, 7k rpms, 500+ hp, near to 500 ft/lbs).
RCR will do and has done turn-key cars. You will lose some originality and you will not have a continuation VIN (which is purely marketing if you ask me). But the options are much more varied and the car is less expensive (probably about 20k less).
Sinovac
GT Owner
J. Salmon,
If it isn't too much trouble, please post some photos of your build. I would really like to see them.
Paul
If it isn't too much trouble, please post some photos of your build. I would really like to see them.
Paul
FYI. there is a RCR GT 40 for sale on ebay with some very good photos for inspection so one can see the differences between SPF and RCR."
I just saw that. There's an equally nice SPF one in Heritage livery as well, albeit a center shift car vs the right sill mounted RCR.
Thanks!:thumbsup
I just saw that. There's an equally nice SPF one in Heritage livery as well, albeit a center shift car vs the right sill mounted RCR.
Thanks!:thumbsup
GT38
GT Owner
GT38
GT Owner
djs, if you haven't already seen it, check out the thread for the SPF "GT40R Competition" at GT40s.com.
somelee
GT Owner
I have an SPF Gulf GT40 with a Roush 427SR with only about 1000 miles on it if anyone is interested. I love it but I've got something else I want to build so I need to free up some money/garage space. Its a LHD, Gurney bubble, RBT ZF, 1075 sticker kit, spare set of 17" original style wheels with brand new hoosier tires on em'. built and sorted by Olthoff. have a copy of the original MSO, and the receipt from Olthoff and Roush.
just in case anyone is interested
just in case anyone is interested
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