Still Running Hot


Fubar

Totally ****** Up
Mark II Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Aug 2, 2006
3,979
Dallas, TX
I can't get the car to stay cool. Ambient temps are high 100-105 on the track. I ran three laps at Eagle's Canyon and the car was in shut-down mode 240+.

Anybody working on a solution?
 

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shelbyelite

PERMANENTLY BANNED
May 10, 2007
1
Hmm, I was not aware this was a problem. Many people on here have taken their car to the track and I havent seen many complaints. Whats all done to the car?
 

S592R

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Dec 3, 2006
2,800
Have you bled the cooling system and installed the stiffening springs to the front hoses? Past that and running ac when on the track. ?????

I put water wetter in 1076 and never saw temps above 200.

Your gal is an 05 isn't it?


edited ... great post by Mad below. but also have you placed spacers between your LP and the back of the car. Believe it or not thats good for ten degrees. at least have seen that on 1161.
 
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MAD IN NC

Proud Owner/ BOD blah bla
Mark IV Lifetime
Feb 14, 2006
4,211
North Carolina
Mark, I know you have the pipes- what else? Whipple? Pulley? Make sure you are running the Ford air filters as the K&N pattern is perpendicular to the normal air flow of the air box and blocks air!

Otherwise problem might be as simple as air in the coolant system as one problem...

Second - check the radiator for the "Gino" problem where his Radiator cap was over pressurized and his radiator fins closed swelling it up like a moldy loaf of bread and restricting air cooling.

Last option - flush the coolant system and get all the air out and go to a ~80+% water with "water wetter" (2-3 bottles) and balance gold antifreeze...

Good luck, keep us posted!
 

BlackICE

GT Owner
Nov 2, 2005
1,416
SF Bay Area in California
I don't know if any of these will make a difference, but others including myself have done the mods to hopefully lessen the chance of overheating.

1. Vacuum bleed the system.
2. Lower anti-freeze to 20-30% not 50%
3. Add water wetter.
4. Accufab hose springs.
5. If 05 remove grill and replace with 06 part.
6. Don't run too long in 2nd gear. High RPMs at low speeds will limit airflow.

Note the A/C suggestion is correct with a stock tune since it will turn on both fans to high speed while the A/C compressor is running. However a better solution is to have a custom tune that turns on the both fans to high speed if the water temps are over ~200, and not use the stock value of 224F and to leave the A/C off. The A/C only heats the air before it gets to the radiator.
 

tmcphail

GT Owner/Vendor
Mark IV Lifetime
Apr 24, 2006
4,102
St Augustine, Florida
Note the A/C suggestion is correct with a stock tune since it will turn on both fans to high speed while the A/C compressor is running. However a better solution is to have a custom tune that turns on the both fans to high speed if the water temps are over ~200, and not use the stock value of 224F and to leave the A/C off. The A/C only heats the air before it gets to the radiator.

++++++
 

Fubar

Totally ****** Up
Mark II Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Aug 2, 2006
3,979
Dallas, TX
I need to get the front grill off...other than that I have all the cooling mods. Springs & Water Wetter.

Mods to the car include:

pulley/tune (conservative)
Trans cooler
LP spacers
Shorty headers
cat delete
borla canister
full black ceramic coating of exhaust system
Accufab inlet support
Accufab throttle body

*using Ford air filters
*car is lowered a full 2 inches
 

S592R

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Dec 3, 2006
2,800
you have a bubble in your system then. ....
 

oskie100

GT Owner
Nov 23, 2005
47
Simi Valley, California
When I went from the borla canister to the accufab x pipe my temps went down 20 degrees.
 

Empty Pockets

ex-GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Oct 18, 2006
1,361
Washington State
I know this is pretty basic & I'm sure you must have already checked it, but I'm gunna throw it out there anyway: have you checked the cooling fins on the radiator?

I seem to recall a post or two here on The 'Forum where it was stated that summa the rads had fins that were bent wrong relative to air flow some way or another. ('Can't recall the exact details of the whole thing.)

(Removing the grille should help. After all, that's why it was removed by Ford in the 1st place.)
 

S592R

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Dec 3, 2006
2,800
Oskie brought up a point .. that can carries a LOT of heat and also blocks the airflow out the back of the car.

You might want to look at an x-pipe or stainless works system.
 

nota4re

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Feb 15, 2006
4,195
Fubar,

My recommendation would be;

1. Get that '05 grill off and replace with '06 parts.
2. If possible, get your fans programmed to kick-on at a lower temp.
3. Vacuum purge the cooling system and replace with a mixture ~20% anti-freeze. (Water is much better at cooling than anti-freeze.)
4. Replace the Borla with a Heffner or Accufab that is ceramic coated. (Note that the Heffner comes this way as standard now.)
5. Shift at a little lower RPM than you might normally

I would think that these changes would yield a very noticeable improvemnet in track temperatures.
 

RALPHIE

GT Owner
Mar 1, 2007
7,278
I had a similar experience at the SAAC32/SVTOA convention last July ('07) at Miller Motorsports Park in Tooele, Utah. I ran the full track (4.5 mile) on Monday with the SVTOA groups, and would only get into 3rd twice and 4th briefly at the end of the main straight - the rest was in 2nd primarily. I was running 110 octane leaded fuel, and the outside ambient temperature was running about 109°. After a few warmup laps, the car was always above 220°, and usually between 230° and 240°. Once, I hit the temperature limit (I think it's at 242°) and the engine shut down a couple of cylinders - the reduced speed and performance dropped the temp to about 234° in about a ¼-lap, and the car regained it's power curve.

However, in driving to and from the track, in the hot outside temperatures, it stayed at about 170°-180°, unless in Salt Lake City traffic, where it would hover about 200° (w/o the AC on).

My configuration is a late 2005 model (September build) which does NOT have the screen in front of the radiators. Ralphie

My exhaust configuration was FRPP M-9430-GTX Rear Exit Headers (no large muffler heat source blocking air flow; FRPP M-7035 Transaxle Cooler; rear license plate removed (to increase air flow through the engine compartment); AC on (but doing minimum cooling) to turn on fans.

I was able to get it to run a little cooler (220° to 230°) by reducing my shift RPM (2nd > 3rd) to 5,500 to 5,800.

I think it may be normal for the engine to run hot on hot summer days when most of the time is spent at high RPM in 2nd gear, as the air flow through the radiator ducting is lower than the higher gears. Since then, I have installed the Accufab hose springs, and a pressure check on the cooling system which showed two minor leaks which were caused by insufficient clamps (enough to lower the pressure in the cooling system but not large enough to be apparent by fluid leakage). As long as you're not running up to the thermal limit (242°), the engine can handle the temperature (probably at some loss in horsepower), as this is the safety point installed by our great engineering team.
 

BlackICE

GT Owner
Nov 2, 2005
1,416
SF Bay Area in California
I know this is pretty basic & I'm sure you must have already checked it, but I'm gunna throw it out there anyway: have you checked the cooling fins on the radiator?

Easy said than done. The front of the radiator is obscured by 2 other heat exchangers!
 

RALPHIE

GT Owner
Mar 1, 2007
7,278
'05 Grille

Fubar -

If you're interested in selling the '05 grille, I'd be interested....

Ralphie
 

Empty Pockets

ex-GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Oct 18, 2006
1,361
Washington State
Easy said than done. The front of the radiator is obscured by 2 other heat exchangers!



Well - there's the pblm!!!!!
 

BlackICE

GT Owner
Nov 2, 2005
1,416
SF Bay Area in California
Well - there's the pblm!!!!!

To inspect the front of the radiator, you have to removed the front bumper which I think requires you to take off both fenders and liners, then you can remove the A/C condenser and then super charger heat exchanger!

Just an 1/2 day of work for the talented ones!
:ack
 

Empty Pockets

ex-GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Oct 18, 2006
1,361
Washington State
To inspect the front of the radiator, you have to removed the front bumper which I think requires you to take off both fenders and liners, then you can remove the A/C condenser and then super charger heat exchanger!

Just an 1/2 day of work for the talented ones!
:ack

If I remember correctly (and I don't know that I DO), the fin pblm was discovered w/o doing all that. 'Seems I remember the pblm can be spotted by just looking at the fins thru the exposed portion of the rad.

Nutz. I need to do a "search".:bang




DANG! I hope this link wurkz!

http://www.fordgtforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8634&highlight=radiator

(I 'knowed I seen dis sumplace'...)
 
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THamonGT

GT
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
A comment in #4(Mad in NC) stated that the K&N air filter pattern is perpendicular in air flow in the box and air flow is not good? Even the K&N filter designed for the Ford GT? Could someone elaborate on this as I feel many of us are using the K&N filter at this time. Should we go back to the Factory filter and sh..can the K&N filter. Tomy Hamon
 

digman1

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Feb 8, 2007
391
Dallas Texas
Fubar,
I have only tracked at Motorsport Ranch, but that day I was pushing 230-240 degrees by the end of a session.

How is Eagles Canyon? Seen pics of the layout, but not been there yet. I know the long straights will make it fun. What speed did you see on them? At MSR I only reach 110-115 on the straight before rattlesnake. Would like a comparison. I have heard that Eagles Canyon will be tough on brakes, with all that additional speed. Are you a member there?

Thanks!
phil