New Stillen Clutch alignment help needed..

[sevenjo]

Hi,

my car is having a new Stillen /AP clutch installed, but my local workshop (Ferrari/Maserati) is telling me they need a special tool to align the clutch as they cant fit the gearbox and the engine back together without some type of tool to make the fitment ??

Does anybody know what kind of tool is needed, and where to get hold of one ?

They just pushed the car back into a corner until they found a sollution and I want to drive it....not wait....


Best regards


Jo

 

[JAYGT]

Someone correct me if I am wrong but I believe Stillen advised me it was the same as the factory clutch alignment tool. In any case just call Stillen to verify.

 

[Empty Pockets]

The 'disc just needs to be aligned with the pressure plate/'pilot hole'/input shaft splines 'same as the stock clutch would have to be. So, since the splines on the input shaft 'are what they are' no matter which clutch is installed, the 'stock' alignment tool ought to work.

I don't understand their dilemma. Buuuut then, there are a lotta things I don't understand...as I have often demonstrated. :willy

 

[sevenjo]

I think the problem is that this is the only GT in Norway (on plates), and this is the first clutch job beeing done on a GT over here.....meening no one has the stockl tool.

As I understand, what you are saying is I need an alignment tool (original)

Is this an original part for the GT only ? Where could I get hold of one ?

Regards

Jo

 

[FENZO]

http://www.toolsource.com/clutch-aligner-ford-mustang-p-109122.html

This is what you need, PN OTC 308-599, I got this one for $17 last year on ebay. Hopefully there is one near you, good luck!

 

[centerpunch]

It's a little surprising and/or scary that your shop is stuck by such a common situation. All this tool does is make sure the clutch disc is centered before you attach and tighten the pressure plate. If the disc is not centered, the tranny input shaft won't line up with it as you try to mate the engine to the tranny.

First, I've done it many times (on other cars, but no reason a GT is special) just by visually centering the disc.

If that's too scary for them, it's simple to make an alignment tool similar to the one shown above- no need for the splines. Just measure the internal diameter of the pilot bushing, then measure the internal diameter of the clutch disc splined section, then make a stepped shaft on a lathe- can be wood, plastic, aluminum- doesn't matter.

 

[jcthorne]

Actually, for dual disc clutches, the splines on the tool align the splines on the two discs so the input shaft will slip through. But its a common enough tool, nothing special for the GT.

 

[paul b]

Actually, for dual disc clutches, the splines on the tool align the splines on the two discs so the input shaft will slip through. But its a common enough tool, nothing special for the GT.

I think you just heard a lot of 60 somethings give an ahh-shoot, I never thought of that.

 

[nota4re]

Yeah, the tool is really needed to line up the splines from both discs. Order the OTC tool above - but I'm also pretty certain that a tool for a late model Mustang has the same splines. I know there's probably not many Mustangs in Norway but maybe more Mustangs than GT's. You may also suggest that they make themselves up a couple of alignment pins by cutting the head off of a bolt - I think it is an M10x1.5. We put 4 of these alignment pins in place to let the transaxle slide up without all the weight/stress on the shaft. One the transaxle is up against the block, the pins are easily removed and replaced with the proper bell housing-to-engine bolts.

OK, and when they get this far, one of the next steps will be to bleed the clutch. Caution them that the clutch reservoir on the GT is very small and you can't get more than about 2-3 clutch strokes in before depleting the reservoir. IMO, clutch bleeding is best done with 3 people. One in the car, one at the bleed screw at the transaxle and another one to keep the fluid full. It's a quick and easy process when you do it this way. Typically, you will not have to bother with the mid bleed screw - but if you draw air in through a depleted reservoir you will!!

 

[centerpunch]

I think you just heard a lot of 60 somethings give an ahh-shoot, I never thought of that.

Actually, 50-something. With, ahh, zero experience with multi plate clutches.

Oops.

 

[nota4re]

Here's a pic of the "alignment pins" I mentioned in my previous post. They help a lot, IMO.

 

[Empty Pockets]

:agree: Pins are the only way to mate any tranny up, IMO. It's just too darn much work to manhandle the things into place w/o 'em. :ack

 

[sevenjo]

Thank you for all the help. The clutch is now in the car and I picked it up today.

The new pedal felt quite easy to operate but the clutch engages almost at the end of its travel..... Is there a way to adjust the point where the clutch engages ?

I stalled the car a couple of times as the feel was unusual to what I was used to....

I havent asked the workshop yet, and this might be simple, but I thougt I would ask here first.

Best regards

Jo

 

[paul b]

It may need to be bled at both bleeding screws. One at the bulkhead and one on passenger side near tranny.

 

[nota4re]

How much "play" is at the top of the pedal? You should have no more than about an inch of travel before you feel the tension of the clutch. If you have a lot more than that, you may need to bleed it some more.

 

[fjpikul]

Word of warning - bleed the clutch when the engine is cool. The bleed point on the firewall is hard to get to when the engine is hot.

 

[BlackICE]

Word of warning - bleed the clutch when the engine is cool. The bleed point on the firewall is hard to get to when the engine is hot.

Easy to get if you are willing to access it from the passenger compartment of the car. Of course getting the sub-cover back on is a PITA.

 

[sevenjo]

How much "play" is at the top of the pedal? You should have no more than about an inch of travel before you feel the tension of the clutch. If you have a lot more than that, you may need to bleed it some more.

The pedal travels all the way out to the last inch before it engages.

If there is no adjustment, I will make them bleed the system some more. Thx a lot.

Jo

 

[nota4re]

Have them bleed from the mid bleed point first. Best access is provided by removing the subwoofer and opening the access panel and then the bleed screw is right there. Have them bleed at that point numerous times and then go back to the bleed screw at the transaxle. Again, the reservoir is very small - so be careful NOT to let it suck air!