Cuda, in your quest to reduce IAT, are you trying to get it below the ambient temp?.
My thoughts from your question yesterday.
When I look at the stock or pipe systems, in either case the box is surrouned by stuff that gets hot.
The vents on the side blow some air into the compartment.
The drivers side is blocked by the ECU
The passenger side looks more effective and blows at the side of the engine
The Cats IMO are the big heat source, they get much hotter then the muffler
As heat rises they will always warm the air box from the bottom.
At the back you either have the muffler or the muffler delete Pipe. The air flow while moving should keep the heat directed away from the box, but still warming it.
It seam to me that if we are looking to reduce IAT we have to focus on the pyrometer readings at the top of the air box. If we can get that to show a measurable drop the IAT will get closer to ambient.
I do not have a data logger for the Ford yet, but what diff are folks seeing between ambient and the IAT temps?.
My vette would tell me outside temp, so comapring the two while data logging that we could see the diff. The best system I found on those was the Vararam whick took the air from the fog light holes. It was within a couple degrees of ambient. All the other systems picked up the air from the shroud by the radiator. They always were hotter at stop lights, but once moving they came back down in say 1/4 mile of cruise.
Our air comes through the small side vents up top so it works like the Vram for the Vets. I would think that it's getting the good stuff this way. But the path it takes going into the box to the MAF may heat it up.
Next we heat it up going through the blower. The only ways I know to cool that air is with an intercooler upgrade, spray the heat exchanger with something , water mist injection or NOS. I have heard some folks talk about a bigger radiator for the intercooler. Removing the coolant and running water wetter. I have used lots of water wetter and it does work, but I would also have to mix in a small amount of coolant as I have had past issues with corrosion. The water wetter may be good for about 10-15degs on a radiator.
I am not sure how hot the IC water gets. But in the end, every forced induction car I have had has a range of power. You make more power cool and less hot. With all the plumbing I still think we are certain to see this range. It's kind of like a stock chart you want to short, lower highs and lower lows.
Sorry if I sound like I am telling you something you don't know. I have seen your posts and know you have a real good handle on these cars. I have learned quite a bit from your posts. I sometimes need to put all the pieces together in sequence to solve a problem, I am kinda slow that way at times.
