GT won't start--Ideas

[Bob Hibbs]

I just jump started my GT
(Battery down from our wonderful Seattle weather)
It started great but then, when I turned it off ,it would not engage the starter or make any attempt to do so.
AAA looked at the battery which is fully recharged.
We rolled it down a small hill and it started when engaged in gear.
It ran fine til turned off again.
The AAA guy thought it might be a frozen solenoid as a result of using the starter cables to jump start it initially.
Any ideas??
I used to have to park my model A on a hill so I could run it down and drop the clutch.I don't want to do this on a regular basis with my GT.

 

[Empty Pockets]

Fuse(?) or crud on the battery terminals/connections? And those at the starter?

Also clean (sand/rough up) where the battery ground strap attaches to the chassis up front.


Oh, as a general practice, only TRICKLE CHARGE the battery over a few days. Never "jump start" it as this can destroy the battery. :thumbsup :cheers

 

[kumar]

I was going to suggest looking at the battery ground.

But we all know EP has more experience with these cars not running than anyone else.

 

[Empty Pockets]

I was going to suggest looking at the battery ground.

But we all know EP has more experience with these cars not running than anyone else.

Aaaaaaaaaaaaaah, SHUDDUP! :biggrin

 

[nota4re]

Most likely case is that your battery is NOT charged???

You say the battery required jumping.... so that would imply the no-crank symptom existed before the jump-start. As such, I would doubt the jump-start caused anything bad. But, you never say when (or how) you charged the battery. (Jumping it and driving it around awhile just won't do the trick!)

VERY high liklihood that your battery is dead - and once they are this dead they seldom come back. A new battery and you'll be good as new.

 

[Empty Pockets]

Most likely case is that your battery is NOT charged???

You say the battery required jumping.... so that would imply the no-crank symptom existed before the jump-start. As such, I would doubt the jump-start caused anything bad. But, you never say when (or how) you charged the battery. (Jumping it and driving it around awhile just won't do the trick!)

VERY high liklihood that your battery is dead - and once they are this dead they seldom come back. A new battery and you'll be good as new.

"AAA looked at the battery which is fully recharged." -B.H.:shrug

 

[Nardo GT]

Most likely case is that your battery is NOT charged???

You say the battery required jumping.... so that would imply the no-crank symptom existed before the jump-start. As such, I would doubt the jump-start caused anything bad. But, you never say when (or how) you charged the battery. (Jumping it and driving it around awhile just won't do the trick!)

VERY high liklihood that your battery is dead - and once they are this dead they seldom come back. A new battery and you'll be good as new.

+1

 

[nota4re]

"AAA looked at the battery which is fully recharged."

Yes, Larry, I CAN read. Looking at a battery and knowing that it is fully charged must be a unique talent they teach at AAA school... as no one I've ever heard of can do this.

 

[Nardo GT]

Yes, Larry, I CAN read. Looking at a battery and knowing that it is fully charged must be a unique talent they teach at AAA school... as no one I've ever heard of can do this.

+1 again!:thumbsup

 

[BlackICE]

Easy check assuming that the built in voltmeter in the car is working, crank the car if the volt meter is below about 8 volts (I think it should be even higher) then I would assume the battery is toast and cannot give enough cranking amps even though its static, non-loaded voltage, is fine.

BTW, EP also lives in WA and never had this problem.

 

[fjpikul]

Dead battery. Check ground cable to frame. Lots of posts here about it. DON'T use a quickcharger, battery will boil over and then you have acid damage. Lots of posts about this, too.

 

[Neilda]

As has already been stated, it's most likely a dead battery - a dead cell rather than the entire thing. It'll show 12V but won't have the Cranking Amps required to turn over this monster engine.

 

[MAD IN NC]

Easy check assuming that the built in voltmeter in the car is working, crank the car if the volt meter is below about 8 volts (I think it should be even higher) then I would assume the battery is toast and cannot give enough cranking amps even though its static, non-loaded voltage, is fine.

BTW, EP also lives in WA and never had this problem.

While the voltmeter is a nice indicator - current or an Ammeter is what really tells you if charging is occurring. Case in point on my 69 Mach voltage output of the 140 Amp Alternator showed 14v but current was minimal thus dead battery on next start....

and true - a 8 V reading shows the battery is gasping! I don't believe even a car can function at this voltage with all the CPU's running. Strange things will occur!

Amp not Volts!

 

[Bob Hibbs]

Thanks for all of the input.

I don't think it is the battery as it was tested and showed:
Voltage: 11.87 V
Measured 650CAA
Rated 550 CCA
The AAA guy who I know said the battery was looking good.


If it was low it has in the past stuttered or engaged the the solonoid but without enough juice to turn over the engine.
This time there was nothing.
All other electrical items are strong, including the guages which can sometines quit working if there is is low battery.

All of the connections are clean and tight and look factory tightened.

 

[Empty Pockets]

Yes, Larry, I CAN read. Looking at a battery and knowing that it is fully charged must be a unique talent they teach at AAA school... as no one I've ever heard of can do this.

1) 'Fully aware you can read. 'Wasn't implying otherwise. 'Thought you just may have missed it. 'Sorry you took it that way.

2) When someone says 'Joe Blow' looked the battery and it's fully charged, that to ME means they've done a load test on it, etc., and it therefore IS 'charged. My bad, I guess.

 

[paul b]

try taking your battery out and using it on another car. If it works OK in that car probably not you battery.

 

[Pete S.]

Bob, just in case you don't have a manual, here are the checkpoints listed:

* Battery
* Fuse F2.4 (10A)
* Fuse F1.3 (40A)
* Fuse F1.11 (40A)
* Ignition Switch
* Starter Switch
* Clutch Pedal Position Switch (CPP) must be depressed, of course.
* Starter Relay
* Anti-Theft system . . . programmed into each key, try a different one if you have one.
* Circuitry.

I need to buy the electronics manual one of these days myself.

I would lean towards the anti theft key fob deal, the CPP, and then the fuses should be simple to check.

Good luck.

Pete S.

 

[Fubar]

I am having similar problems... I just picked up a new battery at sams. I think these batteries have longevity issues. I have heard others bash this style of battery before.

They make a Blue Cap battery that is a marine application. Would that damage anything. It is the same size... just an extra $40

 

[PL510*Jeff]

Bob,

Simple solution, just buy another GT that has a fresh battery in it.:cheers

Did you bring anything home from B/J?

Jeff

 

[BlackICE]

While the voltmeter is a nice indicator - current or an Ammeter is what really tells you if charging is occurring. Case in point on my 69 Mach voltage output of the 140 Amp Alternator showed 14v but current was minimal thus dead battery on next start....

and true - a 8 V reading shows the battery is gasping! I don't believe even a car can function at this voltage with all the CPU's running. Strange things will occur!

Amp not Volts!

Amp and volts are related via ohms law V = IR. Assuming that the volt meter is fast acting (without damping) when drawing high cranking loads via the starter motor, the huge current draw will drop the batteries voltage due to the internal "resistance" of the battery. The larger the internal "resistance" of the battery, the greater the voltage drop across the battery terminals. An ammeter is better for telling you if current is flowing into or out of the battery, thus giving a good indication of the charging system. Large current always flows out of a battery when the starter motor is running!

Yes, 8 volts is extremely low and the car may not work, but if at 8 you definitely have a battery with too high of an internal "resistance."

The test I recommend assumes a fully charged battery with a static voltage of the at least 12.8 V.