For those who have done their own oil change


AJK

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Jul 12, 2006
335
I"m about to do the first oil change and have three questions with reference to removing the diffuser and engine panel. From the shop manual and previous posts it appears both panels need to be removed. Do both of these panels have a seal? If they do can they be used again? If they have seals that can't be used again what options can be considered for replacement?

AJK
 
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RALPHIE

GT Owner
Mar 1, 2007
7,278
I"m about to do the first oil change and have three questions with reference to removing the defuser and engine panel. From the shop manual and previous posts it appears both panels need to be removed. Do both of these panels have a seal? If they do can they be used again? If they have seals that can't be used again what options can be considered for replacement?

AJK

No seals.

It's really not necessary to remove the diffuser, as you can slide the engine panel back enough to let it's front tab drop out so it can be removed. However, it's sometimes nice to remove it just for cleaning.
 

Kingman

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Aug 11, 2006
4,072
Surf City, USA
No seals.

It's really not necessary to remove the diffuser, as you can slide the engine panel back enough to let it's front tab drop out so it can be removed. However, it's sometimes nice to remove it just for cleaning.

Especially for cleaning :thumbsup
 

tpraceman

THEE GT OWNER
Mark II Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Feb 20, 2006
2,835
Washington Michigan
I am at the office so I don't have my GT file. How many quart's do our babies take?
 

sandman

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Jul 10, 2006
465
Gardnerville, Nv.
I am at the office so I don't have my GT file. How many quart's do our babies take?

9.5 quarts.
 

paul b

GT Owner
Nov 2, 2006
810
As long as you're going under and in, you might want to think about the transaxle and antifreeze. Recommended interval for change is three years.
 

AJK

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Jul 12, 2006
335
No seals.

It's really not necessary to remove the diffuser, as you can slide the engine panel back enough to let it's front tab drop out so it can be removed. However, it's sometimes nice to remove it just for cleaning.

I thought someone even offered for sale a reusable gasket for the lower engine cover as the factory used some sort of caulk that had to be removed and replaced before putting the cover back on. If this is not true please confirm.

I will do the transmission oil change as well which I forgot to mention in my original post. Can that be done without removing the diffuser?

AJK
 

RALPHIE

GT Owner
Mar 1, 2007
7,278
I thought someone even offered for sale a reusable gasket for the lower engine cover as the factory used some sort of caulk that had to be removed and replaced before putting the cover back on. If this is not true please confirm...
AJK

I believe you're referring to the access cover from the interior (behind the subwoofer), which gives access to the front engine cover, oil pump belt, and other items inaccessible on the front of the engine. GTSaver used to sell a gasket for this area, but I don't think he does anymore. Shadowman may have a stock of some of these gaskets. Otherwise, there is a butyl caulking that Ford uses and the old material would have to be scraped off and new caulking applied.
 
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paul b

GT Owner
Nov 2, 2006
810
Your only talking about 15 minutes of labor to remove the diffuser panel, and that's lying on your back. As I recall to do your transaxel it must come off. Taking both panels off makes the job much easier and gives you a full view to do a visual inspection. I guess I'm saying there's no reason not to remove it.
 

AJK

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Jul 12, 2006
335
I believe you're referring to the access cover from the interior (behind the subwoofer), which gives access to the front engine cover, oil pump belt, and other items inaccessible on the front of the engine. GTSaver used to sell a gasket for this area, but I don't think he does anymore. Shadowman may have a stock of some of these gaskets. Otherwise, there is a butyl caulking that Ford uses and the old material would have to be scraped off and new caulking applied.

Shadowman has suggested replacing the oil pump belt on low use vehicles every 3 years so I am going to be doing that also. I haven't looked in the shop manual regarding that procedure but I thought this could also be done from below with the lower panel removed but if not then I will be needing to remove the interior access cover you have mentioned.

AJK
 

Fubar

Totally ****** Up
Mark II Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Aug 2, 2006
3,979
Dallas, TX
The oil pump belt is a PIA. I am told you can do it all from below but I found the access window extremely useful.
 

BlackICE

GT Owner
Nov 2, 2005
1,416
SF Bay Area in California
The oil pump belt is a PIA. I am told you can do it all from below but I found the access window extremely useful.

The supercharge belt is a PITA. The oil pump one is not too bad from below if you have short Torx bits to get the cover off and use an inspection mirror.
 

06fordgt

GT
Mark II Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Nov 8, 2006
1,908
Toronto Canada
Ajk like the others have said you do not need to remove the diffuser panel. Remember there are 3 drain plugs to remove. Its best to drain the oil after a run, somewhat hot and lastly crack open the oil filter cap before draining the oil from the motor and reservoir.
While your at it put the accufab drain plugs in instead of the stock ones. They have much more magnetic power than stock.
As for the tranny fluid and belts I have not had that experience -- yet.
Happy wrench turning.
 

nota4re

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Feb 15, 2006
4,199
My experience and recommendations: (I've only done this about 100 times!)

Remove the rear-most, "diffuser" pan first. It really doesn't make sense to leave it on as you will want to make an inspection of everything anyway. It HAS to be removed if you want to do a transaxle fluid change. Look at the top side of this pan for potential leak marks and notice the location so you can inspect the car. (All of the fasteners are T27 Torx.)

Next, remove the mid-pan. The fasteners are also T27 except for the 3 fasteners on each side (6 total) that are along the side rocker pan. These fasteners are T30 Torx, have a slightly different head and washer configuration. They are also a bit longer (30mm compared to 25mm). When re-installing these fasteners in particular - don't over-torque them. Watch the pan as you are tightening and stop before you cause any deformation of the pan. (I have seen plenty of cars where some gorilla has cinched these down and really warped the pan. Dumb.)

Neither pan uses any kind of gasket or sealer.

With the pans removed, change the oil filter first. With the filter changed, unscrew the top of the oil reservoir and then remove the drain plugs. The OEM plugs are not magnetized at all - FYI. Do NOT over-torque the drain plugs.... I've had that same Gorilla put these in too. No need.

Make sure to follow the priming procedure before starting the car after an oil change.

On the transaxle, make sure to remove the drain plugs on BOTH sides of the transaxle. The left plug will have a ~3" screen attached to it. The right plug has a magnetic tip and if this is your first change, don't be alarmed when this tip is globbed up with fine metal particles. This is normal.

ONLY use the Ford (Motorcraft) specified transaxle fluid.... and NOTHING else.

So far, so good. I am a little nervous to advise owners to change their own oil pump belt. This belt is very unique, requires very special attention for proper tensioning and if you muff it, you may have a catastrophe. If you insist on doing it, follow the manual to the letter and double-make-sure you have set the tension absolutely perfectly. I'm all-for owners doing their own maintenance, but you don't want to make any errors here.

I think the oil pump belt is best accessed from underneath and there is no reason to remove the subwoofer and access panel. I use a small torx bit (~1/2" long) and a boxed end ratchet wrench to remove the cover.

Hope this helps...
 

AJK

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Jul 12, 2006
335
Thanks for all the comments. This car only has about a 1000 miles on it. Is it really that important to change the oil pump belt at this time? Could someone explain why a belt should be good for 30000 miles on a car that is driven more often vs one that is driven only about once a month during the summer?

AJK
 

nota4re

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Feb 15, 2006
4,199
AJK - You will likely get some diverse answers on this. Changing out at only 1000 miles is a tough call. The theory is that a belt that stays under tension in only one position for long periods of time is, in fact, more prone to failure that a belt that is turning frequently where the load and stress is evenly distributed.

For what it's worth, Ford states only the 30,000 mile interval and makes no mention of it under age.