Engine stalls

[barondw]

Hi Dave. This is the opposite scenario that other manufacturers run their leak detection tests. "Usually" it is at a full tank when there is less air volume in the tank and therefore easier to test....

I hear you, but this seems to be a different testing procedure for some reason. Maybe the design of the fuel filler neck and pipe, wo knows.

Dave

 

[analogdesigner]

Service headaches...

Dave and others,

I did read your info very carefully. I knew that the dealer was not going to take the car when I had arrived, so the fuel level was not an issue.

When I had arrived at the dealer, it was very busy, sort of like a Chinese fire drill. I had to park behind several cars in line. When I explained to him the problem, the service guy just wanted to blow me off. I had all of my documentation of the problem printed and handed it to him. I then described the stalling problem and the info from this forum. He just wanted me to drive it around until the "check engine" came on. I told him that this problem is documented. I couldn't believe it; I even handed him my computer printout showing the OBD-II fault code! He then decided that I wasn't going to take NO for an answer, he goes in the back room to talk with his master mechanic. A few minutes later, he comes out saying that he didn't know that my car was a "GT". After that was determined, then he treated me better. Then he wanted me to bring the car in and leave for 2-3 days! Of course I nicely told him that this was totally unacceptable! I am now going to contact him in the AM to schedule a drive-in and test-while-I-wait. I realize that I need to go out for pleasure drive to burn off some more fuel, to 1/2 full as you recommended.

Moral of this short story is: Make sure the service department knows precisely what type of car you have brought in first, that way you'll probably get a little more respect!

Thanks all,

Jay

 

[ietzr1s]

I have about 3,000 mi. on the car and it normally idles between 700 and 800 rpm. Lately, as I come to a stop in city driving, the engine frequently - but not always - idles down to about 500, feels like it is going to stall and then speeds up again to 700. It has actually stalled twice. The engine temperature is usually under 200 degrees when this happens and the air conditioning is on.

Everything else seems to be normal. Is this something that might be fixed with an adjustment? Should I try a different brand of gasoline (I am using Shell)? Should I just get used to it?

This can be fixed with a custome tune. I personally think that Ford set the idle on these cars way too low. Possibly to able to pass idle smog requirements. I like to set these cars at 850 RPM for Idle. Also if you are only having issues with idle and stalling with the A/C on then we can only just adjust the idle RPM adder with the A/C on. We had the privlage of tuning a Ford GT which we added a pully and exhaust to and we noticed these issues before we even started working on it. All these Idle and stall issues were confirmed and fixed during the tuning process. You guys own one of the baddest cars ever built!

B&D Racing

 

[barondw]

Jay

I find the whole bit at the dealership amazing. The dealer we use takes the car and treats it very specially because of what it is. No wait, no hassle, and if a problem no appointment required. Of course properly thanking the servie manager and staff may also be a bit of a help.

Dave

 

[analogdesigner]

New fuel filler valve and fueling tips

The dealer just replaced my fuel filler valve assembly. The original one had some drebis buildup affecting the sealing ability of the o-ring seal. This debris is metal buildup from insertion and extraction from the gas filler nozzle. Follow the notes below to minimize this risk to your car:

1. Position the nozzle so that it's handle is aimed orthogonally away from the car (handle towards the gas pump. Insert the gas pump nozzle straight into the filler without dragging it at an angle. Once fully inserted, then tilt the nozzle away from the car in order to lock the nozzle in place. When removing the pump nozzle, reverse the procedure by tilting it back to the straight position and pulling it straight out.

2. If the tip gas pump nozzle has a rough texture to it, then find another pump. The fuel filler assembly can scrape the metal from the nozzle which can buildup into sealing surface, thus creating a small leak.

I had to leave the car at the dealer overnight. They managed to chip the fender paint right above the headlight. I cannot put blame on anyone since this could have been the beginning of a paint flaw that some persons are reporting.

My relationship with my local service department is real good!

Thanks for your help Dave!

Jay

 

[analogdesigner]

Fuel filler care

Hi VPC,

It's about one inch below the two swing-away covers, there is a hinged metal flapper valve. This is what the gas nozzle tip presses against. Just remember that this part is hinged at the rear end of the car. The sharp edge of this flapper valve is what drags against the soft aluminum fuel nozzle. There is really no cleaning chemicals that would help this potential problem, since it's really a large particle issue.

Although Techron is good, most modern day fuels have injection cleaner in them. I do use a bottle in all of my car about every 5-10K miles.

I may try to design a slip-on protective sleeve so this will never be a problem again. Jay

 

[fjpikul]

Gas filler

Jay,

You describe an O ring and the seal it makes. Where is it in the mechanism? Do you think some of this can be averted by cleaning the tip of the gas pump nozzle before inserting it? I've only filled up once, so it's a little difficult to picture. Thanks FJP

 

[analogdesigner]

O-ring seal

Jay,

You describe an O ring and the seal it makes. Where is it in the mechanism? Do you think some of this can be averted by cleaning the tip of the gas pump nozzle before inserting it? I've only filled up once, so it's a little difficult to picture. Thanks FJP

Jay, thanks for the clarification :thumbsup

Side question:
Would this problem come under the 5yr emission control warranty? ( I think I remember that emission control issues are supposed to be warranteed for 5yrs regardless of the length of the regular warranty. )

FJP,

I think that wiping off the tip of the nozzle is a good idea. I will do more research on the o-ring seal as I think that it's up under the plastic piece that holds the two "blades" that spead apart. This has only happened to a small number of cars, however, I wonder what the long term effect will be.

I will probably design a small insert that will fit into the filler just before the fuel nozzle gets inserted.


VPC,

That is a good question. Yes that should be covered as an emission control device. Is it 5 or 7 years???

I'll keep everyone posted on any new developments. Jay

 

[fjpikul]

Gas filler

Just for curiosities sake, did Ford keep the original part? Did you get to see it? FJP

 

[analogdesigner]

No show

Just for curiosities sake, did Ford keep the original part? Did you get to see it? FJP

I asked to see it, however they never showed it to me.

 

[davep5088]

Engin Stalls

To add to the discussion, I have 2100 miles and have had the stall once prior to last week when, with 1/2 tank of fuel the engine stalled at every stop for a total of nine times. I drove directly to the local dealer and he reported a crack in the filler pipe but did not have a clue as to the stall problem!!
You guys seem to have solved the problem for them.
Thanks

 

[FLY GT40]

fuel filling ?

This may not come under this thread but it is a fuel filler question. I am only on my second tank of gas so I am new to this car. When the dealer and I put the first tank of gas in on him it would only take 12.5 gallons but the gauge showed above full. I drove it 143miles and it was in the red on the gauge so I filled it. It only took 13 gal. also showed full on the gauge. the book says we have a 17 usful gallon tank. is the gauge as in acurate as my plane or am I having filling problems or did the gas milage on my 98 Porsche C2S spoil me? If this is the wron thread please redirect me. Thanks FLY GT40

 

[EasyEric]

Fly,

Tank is indeed 17.5 gallons and the gauge is fairly accurate. Of course like all cars, there is some safety margin built in, i.e., when it indicates empty, you still have some fuel left.

If I am not "Hot Rodding" the car, I consistently get 15-16 MPG in combined driving. Others have reported 20+MPG on the highway.

Eric

 

[everetto]

Is there a TSB on this? Is Ford officially aware of the issue? My car has not stalled (yet) in the short time I have owned it, but I have noticed an occasional "stutter" when coming to a stop as the engine returns to idle. It stutters and then the idle speed stabilizes. Sounds kind of like the onset of stall, or at least somewhat related. The car is an '05 with 4800 miles on it. Thanks.

 

[gtjoey]

GUYS THIS IS OOOLLD NEWS, DO A RUN ON THE MACHINE , IF THE VACUUM TEST GOES THROUGH THE ROOF, 9 OUT OF 10 ITS THE LEAKING FUEL PIPE, SMOKE IT OUT. WHAT WAS HAPPENING TO MINE ,, COME TO A LITE, PUSH IN CLUTCH, RPMS DROP TO 200 THEN UP TO 8500, COMES DOWN TO 450 THEN DIES, I ALMOST GOT KILLED 3 TIMES BEFORE THE PIPE............ DO IT ITS THE ANSWER, JUST COVER YOUE EYES CAUSE HALF OF THE FRONT OF THE CAR IS COMING OFF....... :eek . NOT A DYI JOB :thumbsup GTJOEY 1314 2005

 

[glord]

I had the stalling problem for quite some time but none of the traditional tests indicated a problem with the filler pipe. Finally, the car stalled with the Ford Rep in the car, and he agreed to authorize the dealer to replace the filler pipe. No problems since. Also, my dealer, Frontier Ford in Santa Clara California figured out a way to repair the problem without having to break rivets and remove the entire front fender. You might suggest your dealer contact Frontier's GT Technician if they are not already aware of this technique.

 

[xraygt]

true crack of pipe or just O-ring seal leaking?

does anyone know if fuel filler pipe problem is caused by real cracking of pipe orjust leaking of O-ring or some other mechanism? also has anyone had (check engine light) related to evap leak WITHOUT any stalling or idle problems?

 

[gtjoey]

YES, YES AND YES, Depending if the tank is 3/4 full, cycle runs ect. Wind up is before you get KILLED in the car replace the pipe, BELIEVE ME YOU WILL KNOW THE DIFFERENCE..... When you pull the pipe out flip it up side down , blow in the pipe , it will pass air just from you alone, its a combo , possible cracked pipe where the return line is, possible , top lid sticking where the fuel goes in , also BOTTOM FLAP UNDER PIPE YOU CANT GET TO. JUST REPLACE IT , ITS A BIG, BIG SAFETY ISSUE, P.S i WAS HESITANT TO DO IT CAUSE MY MOTOR IDLED AT 625 LIKE A FLAT HEAD MERC, YOU SHOULD BE AT 650 TO 700 , THE DROP SOUNDED GOOD BUT IT WAS DUE TO VACCUUM LOSS , NOT VERY GOOD ON HILLS, BRAKES , CLUTCH PRESSURE ECT. JUST DO IT BABY!!!!!!!!!!!! GTJOEY 1314 AND LOVING IT. :thumbsup

 

[ENZO BTR]

I've joined the club!! Took the car out for lunch today and it stalled TWICE over the 20-mile drive when slowing for a red light. :frown It has done this maybe 3 times over the last six months, but never this consistently until today. Of course, it was hot and I was using A/C...

The good news? My windshield got a rock ship a few months back but pulling the entire front clip to replace it didn't make me happy. Well, now I can have them pull the front clip UNDER WARRANTY and then say, "Oh, while you're there, replace that windshield." Ha! :biggrin

 

[Ernest]

engine stalling

I have over17,000 miles and once or twice every thousand miles have had the problem.