Engine Noise Question

[ByeEnzo]

Got an engine noise question. The last couple of times I have started my GT from cold, there is a clattering sort of sound coming from the top of the motor. Sounds like its coming from the SC. No abnormal valve train noises, etc. It goes away in matter of minutes, once the motor warms up. No loss of boost. No fluid leaking anywhere. Car runs great. It's different than belt squeal and slippage in cold weather. I have a stock blower and pulley. Car has 18K miles. A mechanic buddy of mine thinks its some end play in the supercharger that tightens up after warm up. Anybody seen or experienced this. BTW who makes our stock SC's, and where do they go for repair if needed? Is this something an SVT mechanic can handle? Shadowman, Kendall, Torrie, anyone? Thanks, AC

 

[teej]

Are you sure it's coming from the SC? I had a rattle I could hear from the drivers seat on startup and then it would go away. Then yesterday in my anal retentive mode of cleaning the engine bay, i went to clean the dipstick handle and guess what, it made the same sound when i shook the handle.

The only other idea i have to narrow down where the sound is coming from, is to use a trick I've used on my old Porsche where you use a long screwdriver (the longest you have) and press the handle end to your ear while you press the other end on the motor as it's running (free from moving parts!!!). Might help you narrow down where the sound comes from.

My discounted 0.02... Good luck.

 

[HHGT]

Pulley Tensioner

 

[Fubar]

Pulley Tensioner

+1

but you could also try one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-LIS5275...6?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1278907127&sr=8-16

http://www.amazon.com/Steelman-Chas...4?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1278907232&sr=8-14

 

[fjpikul]

Unfortunately, this man does not know how to use a stethoscope, but he does read X-rays well.

 

[Shadowman]

First of all it is not uncommon for the roots style superchargers which these are a derivative of to make a rattling noise that can and generally does become more pronounced in time particularly when the gals are cold and looking to settling into a smooth idle and as shared as they warm up this tends to mask the situation.

It is a problem; no and yet verifying that this is the culprit will afford some peace of mind and also confirm that as another has shared that it is not an idler looking to be replaced which is an issue and would need to be tended to.

A stethoscope is the perfect tool to listen to the supercharger and can also be used to check the tensioner however great care need be taken so as not to have contact with the belt during the process.

Email or call me if I can be of assistance

Takes care

Shadowman

 

[luxgt]

mine (1700 miles stock) has the same ticking sound when cold. My technical guy says not to worry

 

[nota4re]

I would recommend the basics, first - although you probably already have done that. In case, check the oil level in the SC. With the car parked on level ground, oil should just start to ooze out of the SC fill plug once removed. The fill plug is on the passenger side of the SC facing forward and requires and Allen wrench to be removed. If it doesn't ooze oil, fill until it does. Use only FORD (Motorcraft) SC fluid (FL4?). The oil should look relatively clean. If real dark, take a picture and post or email me.

In the rare instance of a front snout seal failure, oil will typically sneak back down along the underside of the snout toward the SC body. As such, feeling the underside of the snout (with the car off and preferable cold), you should NOT notice any oil.

I wouldn't be too concerned with the sound but I would try to detect if it starts getting any louder or lasts any longer than it is today.

 

[ByeEnzo]

Thanks for all the input. I started the car from cold today and listened with a long screwdriver. I could only access the top idler pulley but I don't think the noise is coming from there. The other 2 idler pulleys and the tensioner pulley on the SC belt are only accessable through the front engine cover or I guess, from below. It does not sound like a bad bearing on a pulley. I think the noise is from the SC and once again it cleared up once the engine warmed up. I'll check the SC fluid level next as Kendall suggests.

 

[HHGT]

Thanks for all the input. I started the car from cold today and listened with a long screwdriver. I could only access the top idler pulley but I don't think the noise is coming from there. The other 2 idler pulleys and the tensioner pulley on the SC belt are only accessable through the front engine cover or I guess, from below. It does not sound like a bad bearing on a pulley. I think the noise is from the SC and once again it cleared up once the engine warmed up. I'll check the SC fluid level next as Kendall suggests.

BTW, an easy test is to pour a little water on the belt immediately after a cold start. Sometimes the white raised Manufacturer Stamp that includes the belt model # etc. is the culprit and the water will temporarily eliminate the noise.

 

[Shadowman]

Thanks for all the input. I started the car from cold today and listened with a long screwdriver. I could only access the top idler pulley but I don't think the noise is coming from there. The other 2 idler pulleys and the tensioner pulley on the SC belt are only accessable through the front engine cover or I guess, from below. It does not sound like a bad bearing on a pulley. I think the noise is from the SC and once again it cleared up once the engine warmed up. I'll check the SC fluid level next as Kendall suggests.

Well done

Now "if" there is no oil under the belt drive snout area then the odds of a leak are slim; yes the oil can be drawn into the internal portion of the supercharger however this is rare.

Regardless; if you find that the fluid is low use only OEM oil at $25 for a small vial through Ford and then watch it closely as the gear case should never need oil added after the initial fill

Takes care

Shadowman

 

[fjpikul]

Hey Chief, did you check your airbox to make sure your air filters didn't disintegrate and might be causing a problem? Easy and worth a shot. Maybe you can find a horse trailer MRI and run your car thru it so it's easier for you to understand.

 

[ByeEnzo]

You are a riot, Frankie! To add to the above noise phenomena, now my oil pressure gauge is stuck on 25 psi. Does not change with rpm's. Noticed that this morning. I already had the pressure sending unit replaced once. Don't think the 2 issues are related.

 

[ByeEnzo]

I had 2 mechanics listen with me to my SC rattle. It is mildly noticable at idle even with the engine warm. We used a long screwdriver. The sound seems to be coming from the body of the SC near the junction with the snout. Probably worm bearings there. I do not think it is a bad pulley but these could be checked by removing the SC belt and assessing each pulley individually. I think the solution to my problem will be to remove the SC and send it off for a refurbish. My question is... where does it go? Anyone done a refurb or repair on a stock SC. I was gonna get the GT Guys to do a pulley and tune, but if my SC is bad, it doesn't make any sense to do mods till I get the SC right again. I guess the other option is a Whipple and tune. Hmmm. Bill, Kendall, please feel free to PM me.

 

[Shadowman]

I had 2 mechanics listen with me to my SC rattle. It is mildly noticable at idle even with the engine warm. We used a long screwdriver. The sound seems to be coming from the body of the SC near the junction with the snout. Probably worm bearings there. I do not think it is a bad pulley but these could be checked by removing the SC belt and assessing each pulley individually. I think the solution to my problem will be to remove the SC and send it off for a refurbish. My question is... where does it go? Anyone done a refurb or repair on a stock SC. I was gonna get the GT Guys to do a pulley and tune, but if my SC is bad, it doesn't make any sense to do mods till I get the SC right again. I guess the other option is a Whipple and tune. Hmmm. Bill, Kendall, please feel free to PM me.

The supercharger is not serviced through Ford however a quality machine shop can swap the bearings and seals; since you were intending on having your gal visit The GT Guys they may have some one local that can tend to it.

BTW it is better to isolate the noise with the belt in place because if a bearing it is more likely to make a noise when loaded with tension; as for it being a pulley; I would say the odds are slim and none.

If I can assist let me know

Takes care

Shadowman

 

[nota4re]

I had a customer recently who had a horrible failure of the front snout bearing. I suspect the failure was due either to an improperly installed aftermarket pulley, an over-filled case, or both.

The contamination from the front bearing unfortunately caused the front bearings of the rotors to fail as they are bathed in the same oil. I called around and found "the only" factory authorized shop in the country to rebuild these units. I cannot recall the price, but it was very expensive and I can't say that I hit it off to well with the rep I spoke to.

Anyway, long story short, my recommendation would be to simply purchase a take-off OEM SC. I could probably locate one for you. Expect to pay $1K - $1.5K and get a low-mileage unit. Keep your original SC and get it fixed at your leisure - or not.

Let me know if I can help.

 

[ByeEnzo]

Man you guys are quick! I found a company that sells remanufactured units....PSE superchargers. I'll give them a call. If that fails I'll give you guys a shout.

 

[2112]

...PSE superchargers.

I think they port match the intake manifold to the intercooler as well. At least They do for the GT500 as there is a large mismatch.
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