I have a 06 GT and had a custon tune for a long time with a smaller pulley and Mafia. I tried to get it smogged and it failed and they said I didnt drive it enough so I drove it about 100 miles. It didnt pass inspection. I was told to take out the tune and flash the original tune for Smog. I did and now getting p0171, p0174, p1000 and didnt pass again. It was very hot that day about 110 degree and filled up the tank and then saw the check engine light. I have a excaliber for the tune and got the codes. SHould I clear the codes and see if they return or take it to a dealer, or reinstall the tune. After researching it appears that these indicate lean conditions which is ? dangerous since it is very hot here in Palm Springs, CA.
DTC codes p0171, p0174, p1000
- Thread starter doc4140
- Start date
twobjshelbys
GT Owner
Whose setup do you have? I got mine with the GT Guys pulley/tune and when I took mine in it passed with flying colors. You have to remember that if you changed any of the path, that the original tune will probably not work. The original path includes the air intake, throttle body and pulley.
Fubar
Totally ****** Up
Oh shit??!? Don't do that... you could be running that motor super lean. Whoever told you to do that is giving you BAD advice. I think the P codes are coil failures or misfires... probably a result of engine knock. Go retune your car immediately.
There are several, several threads regarding the emissions test cycle. From what I can tell, Ford uses a combination of logic and magic fairy dust to to run thru the emission test but here are the things I have been told.
1) The fuel level must be between 1/2 and 3/4 full. The car must be driven long enough for the fuel tank to pressure test itself and for the catalytic converter to get hot enough to get a significantly different result from the pre-cats O2 to the post-cat O2s (this means some good highway speed and maybe even keeping 5th or 4th gear at 80mph). The actual milage driven is not a factor.
There are several, several threads regarding the emissions test cycle. From what I can tell, Ford uses a combination of logic and magic fairy dust to to run thru the emission test but here are the things I have been told.
1) The fuel level must be between 1/2 and 3/4 full. The car must be driven long enough for the fuel tank to pressure test itself and for the catalytic converter to get hot enough to get a significantly different result from the pre-cats O2 to the post-cat O2s (this means some good highway speed and maybe even keeping 5th or 4th gear at 80mph). The actual milage driven is not a factor.
I had the pulley, tune, throttle body, by Muscle Motors in LA area. THey are the ones that said to remove the tune. Maybe you are right that it is running lean after removing the tune angetting to 110 outside temp. I guess I try reinstalling the tune and drive the car.
twobjshelbys
GT Owner
Yeah, that's what I was trying to say. Some systems just include a change to the basic ECU - the so called "chip" tunes - that just adjust the engine timing and other control parameters. These kinds of adjustments can be reversed by putting back the original parameters. But if you have any external modifications - pulley or throttle body - the engine control dynamics are changed and cannot be "reversed" with just the "tune". In fact the engine will usually run worse with the original ECU settings and the modified "hardware" since the air flow is way wrong.
My advice is to try to find the creator of the setup and consult with them.
[Crossed posts - work with them....]
My advice is to try to find the creator of the setup and consult with them.
[Crossed posts - work with them....]
twobjshelbys
GT Owner
That combination will not work with the original tune unless you revert those components to factory. You need to put back their "tune" or you will run the engine dry. Then work with them on getting your emissions issue, but get it back to their setup or you could cause some engine damage. Don't take it to the drag strip or track until you put it back to their config or you will do some damage. The computer will do its best to pull the AFR (that is what these all come down to) to a nominal value, but the setup you have is beyond the range the computer can handle, thus the codes.
BlackICE
GT Owner
If you have the tuner then return to the stock tune, remove or bypass the Mafia so that the MAF is connected as OEM, make sure the gas tank is at 3/4 full, disconnect the battery and reconnnect it. Not do not drive hard, no high boost < 5 PSI plenty safe, and drive around untill the P1000 code is reset. I got an inexpensive ELM OBDII reader from Amazon that connects to the OBDII port and a laptop PC. It allows you to see which OBDII codes are not reset yet. That combined with reading about the Ford OBDII drive cycle, do a search, will allow you to pass the test. Some have done it in less than 25 miles, other have gone more than 200 miles to get it done.
I put back the tune and noticed that the 171 and 174 were gone. I cleared the 1000 code and start from scratch with driving the car. What does the p1000 code indicate if it comes back?
BlackICE
GT Owner
p1000 means that the ecu hasn't finished it OBDII compliance tests yet. I didn't have much luck trying to pass with a modified tune.
Fubar
Totally ****** Up
OK so I removed the Mafia MAF sensor and returned the tune to stock and cleared the codes. Drove the car for over 100 miles over several days. idle, drove at 40mph , drove at 55 and 65 mph , slowed to 40 from 65 mph without clutch engaged etc. Tried to clear the P1000 code and it still comes up. I still have the smaller pulley and the Accufab throtle body on the car. I took the car into the Ford Dealer in Palm Springs and they would not smog the car since it has a Accufab throtle body on and they needed a EO code that is it does not have so they would not smog it. Any ideas how I can get the car smoged since the registration is due by 9-18-12.
PL510*Jeff
Well-known member
You might call Randy Walker, Walker Automotive a call. In Bermuda Dunes. 760-772-8822.
Or Mike @ JD AUtomotive in Cathedral City. 760-328-4335.
Both are high quality shops. And it's always interesting to see what they are working on.
Hope this helps. And they don't have the non-OEM problems of PS Ford.
2112
Blue/white 06'
Thanks . I may have a contact in Palm Springs that I stumbled on. He said that with a smaller pulley and Accufab and stock tune it may be difficult to get it to pass but will try....................
twobjshelbys
GT Owner
I dislike creating a new topic if there already is one and since I've replied to this one in the past I thought I'd give this horse a little kick.
My setup from the GT guys passed With Flying Colors in Colorado. They do a sniff test every two years. Here in Nevada it's an OBDII check. I went in Saturday to get my test and it failed for "OBD Catalyst not completed" and "OBD Exhaust Gas not completed". There were no codes showing on the SCT tuner.
I checked with Rich and he suggested returning to the original tune and MAF, which I did, and promptly got the P1000 and P0401 (EGR circulation failure). I cleared the codes and the P0401 came back this time with a CEL (the first time didn't have a CEL but it was shown on the SCT). Rich suggested restoring the original throttle body which I did and that got rid of the P0401 code (I think air flows differently across the tubes).
But now I can't get rid of P1000. I've driven 40-50 miles in combination of city and freeway. The SCT tuner doesn't show all of the codes that are pending but not yet cleared, so I don't know what it is waiting for or holding a failure for.
So two questions:
1. Is there a way to figure out what is keeping P1000 up?
2. What is the real process for clearing P1000? Ford has this huge long procedure, that in all practical purposes, is impossible to perform except on a runway. Is it necessary to do all of them in sequence, or is it sufficient to acquire them piecemeal?
For example, Step 8 (EGR) says "from a stop, accelerate to 45MPH at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle, repeat 3 times". Does step 8 have to be performed in order between step 7 (which requires 5 repeats itself) and 9, or do you just have to meet all of these events and order really isn't critical?
Whatever it is I'm glad I went in for the test this weekend and didn't wait until the last minute.
P.S. I still have the small pulley, which will be a PITA if I have to restore that.
BlackICE
GT Owner
Clearing the OBDII test can be a real PITA! My first time I had to drive over 250 miles to get rid of the errors. I ran the stock tune and left the Whipple and Accufab TB in place, but bypassed the Mafia. I recommend getting any number of OBDII scanners that hook up to a laptop, Apple or Android phone that will show you all of the test that haven't completed yet. With that information and the write up on how to clear test codes you can accomplish the task much sooner. I reset them in less than 80 miles the next time.
EP would go nuts if he had to put all of those road miles in just to get the car registered!
EP would go nuts if he had to put all of those road miles in just to get the car registered!
twobjshelbys
GT Owner
Thanks. Do you have a pointer to a Bluetooth reader and app that will get the tests that haven't completed? I'd like to know if its waiting on something functional or just waiting to check off miles/speeds/start-stops.
BlackICE
GT Owner
Can't find my old post, but I have a real old wired tool to a laptop. I'm sure others can chime in on what's a good Bluetooth box.