changing exhaust - difficulty level DIY ??

[Copenhagen GT]

I have these Ford Racing headers the GTX version that I have not come around to installing as I don´t really trust any mechanic overhere to work on my FGT.

I do have a access to a good mechanic and I can also perform some work myself.

On a scale of 1-10 how difficult is it to take of the stock exhaust and replace it with a set of Ford Racing long tube GTX headers?

I guess I need to take of the clamshell, but apart from that, any other major component that need to be removed

I also have a CDC bumper delete kit - would it be the time to install that too - and does installing that require even more disassembly than already done when installing the exhaust?

:cheers
Anders

 

[Mark06GT]

You'll have a little more wiggle room if you loosen the bolts that hold up the transaxle. You can support it from underneath, but letting it drop a little gave us just enough room to thread in the new pipes.

 

[ViperJoe]

I'd give it a 3. It's not very difficult at all.

 

[nota4re]

On a scale of 1-10 how difficult is it to take of the stock exhaust and replace it with a set of Ford Racing long tube GTX headers?

It is a lot more tedious than it is difficult. Having access to a lift makes life a lot easier. Some bolts are easier to get from the top, some are easier from the bottom. Note that the heads will have studs in them for the exhaust. After you get the nuts off it may be necessary to remove many of the studs in order to remove the manifolds. The studs are easily removed because they have small hex ends and you can place a socket on them.

There is absolutely no need to remove the clamshell. There's a common misconception that the OEM exhaust muffler interferes with the the clamshell on the way out, but it does not.

 

[Copenhagen GT]

Thanks for the replies. What about the bumper delete kit - does that require removing any major parts? I would think that with the exhaust out of the way, there should be easy access?

:cheers
Anders

 

[fjpikul]

Anders, the GT guys will usually remove the clamshell to change out the exhaust. It only takes 5 minutes to pull the pins. You do need two people. Then you know you're safe and won't do any damage. Taking the bumper off makes it that much easier to do the work as well. The OEM muffler is very heavy and awkward, but once it's out, the rest is pretty easy. The GT Guys advise letting your exhaust tips point downward a little becasue when the system gets hot and expands, they tend to move upward. I think ShadowMan posted a thread a long time ago about replacing the muffler by yourself. It is well worth reading. Again, don't work fast.

 

[nota4re]

IMHO, removing the clamshell to do an exhaust changeout - especially when it is your first time, introduces risk unnecessarily. Not only do you have to tape and carefully lift up the clamshell... you have to put it down somewhere.... somewhere absolutely safe.

The "trick" in removing the OEM exhaust is to remove the bumper, lower screen, AND the screen between the frame horns. With this center screen removed, you can rotate the exhaust as it comes out. Place a large moving blanket or two across the rear shock towers and braces. With one strongman on the passenger side and another strong(er) man on the drivers side, the muffler can be rotated and lifted out towards the drivers side. It can rested on the moving blanket, while the passenger strongman runs around to join the drivers side strongman to lift it free of the car. Admittedly, you may have better leverage ability w/o the clamshell, but the "tightness of the fit and the rotation technique is needed to clear the tailpiece of the car - and not the clamshell.

Both methods (clamshell on or off) will work, I just feel safer leaving it on.

To your question about the CDC Bumper delete Kit... the clamshell can definitely stay on for that too.

 

[Shadowman]

My two cents

What you are about to tend to is time consuming rather than difficult however the following need be known;

Have a fresh set of OEM gaskets on site

Disconnect the battery from the system

As shared the primary muffler can be removed without removing the clamshell and if the directions that I shared long ago are followed there is “no” risk of secondary damage. On very rare occasions I have to remove the solo transaxle bolt with a floor jack under the transaxle and lower it approximately one inch.

Now once the OEM muffler has been removed IMO you must remove the 6 perimeter half shaft bolts; if you elect not to then secondary cosmetic damage is likely. Now if the bolts are of the Allen socket cap style they are garbage as they are OEM torque to yield bolts and need be replaced with either fresh OEM bolts or IMO AccuFab’s ARP bolts.

Now once the half shafts have been decoupled from the transaxle using a bungee cord or ? secure them out of the way I then remove the half shaft heat shields and then tape the exposed areas around and under the cats; I typically use several rags too and then unplug the four O2 sensors and then remove the two nuts on each cats and remove them.

Now you need to remove the OEM exhaust manifold heat shields; prior to doing so tape all of the exposed areas around them as they will come out without damage however sometimes it is a bit of a puzzle to get them in just the right position for them to do so.

Now it starts to get interesting; IMO loosen all of the exhaust manifolds nuts however lightly re-secure an upper nut on each exhaust manifold that is very easy to access and then remove all of the remaining nuts. Once the nuts are removed you will need a “quality” with the key word being quality 6 point 5mm ¼ drive socket as you now need to remove the exhaust studs. No all of them do not have to be removed however most of them on the driver side do and those that are closest to the oil filter adapter are a must remove and you “need” to take your time and not strip the head of the exhaust stud or the project will quickly become scope and magnitude. I remove all of them thus insuring that the removal process is risk free and FYI typically the studs come out fairly easy however as the gals are getting more miles on them I am finding this process typical of aging exhaust a bit tenuous at times. If you strip the top of the stud or failed to use a quality socket do “not” panic but rather more to the next one and continue the process. As shared the two nearest the oil filter housing “must” come out however a few of the others can remain so until the very end you will not know if a new phase of the project needs to unfold.

If you have any question before or during do not hesitate to call or PM me and I will gladly help you from afar.

Once the OEM system has been removed the integrating of the Ford Racing system is IMO without risk. If the headers are thermal coated by all means tape them so that during the process unnecessary patina is not caused to them. And if “not” thermal coated make certain to wipe them down with alcohol before you fire her so as to insure that finger prints and unnecessary bluing does not occur.

Now to the CDC rear bumper delete; I will share that out of the box they fit poorly as such I encourage you to do a complete dry fitting before considering any paint work during which time all tweaking can be tended to and then removed and disassembled for preparation and paint. There are two key areas that need to be looked and generally have to be addressed; the modified OEM exhaust surround is typically cut poorly so you will likely have to hand massage it and you will also need to carefully dry fit the lower screws within this piece; they are very small and there is not much for them to cut a thread into as such I always use a silicon paste or light oil so as to encourage a nice thread pattern. The next area that will likely need tending to are the holes as they drilled them; they are typically off as such cause the soon to be painted panel not to fit flush with the gals OEM rear fascia.

If you take the time to dry fit the CDC rear bumper delete system and then prepare/paint and install it the results can be wonderful however failing to do so turns the results into IMO a crap shoot at best

Takes care

Shadowman

 

[Copenhagen GT]

Thank you very much all of you - this is certainly a great site and the level of help you can get is great :thumbsup:thumbsup

:cheers
Anders