Alright after the mile (3 runs) I have hairline cracks on all 4 rotors. What effective options are out there to tackle this sort of issue since my car is being prepped to do this event all over again ?
Brake Rotor and pad options for stopping from 200+
- Thread starter tmcphail
- Start date
BlackICE
GT Owner
Torrie, maybe your car is too fast. :biggrin
I only hit 180 and I had plent of room to brake. I only mildly touch them and stopped in plenty of time. I don't think I used up much of the pads or rotors.
STORMCAT
GT
AP Racing Brakes
The only way to eliminate cracking is with the solid rotors, I have the AP Racing Brakes supplied by Stillen.
I have done two different track events and the Texas mile and no issues.. These are noticeably stronger that the Stock Brakes. The larger rotors are lighter than stock rotors and they obliviously didn't slow down my little pulley and tuned car at the mile !!..:biggrin
The only way to eliminate cracking is with the solid rotors, I have the AP Racing Brakes supplied by Stillen.
I have done two different track events and the Texas mile and no issues.. These are noticeably stronger that the Stock Brakes. The larger rotors are lighter than stock rotors and they obliviously didn't slow down my little pulley and tuned car at the mile !!..:biggrin
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Triheart7
GT Owner
Hi Stormcat,
I see you have Goodyear on the front wheel and Bridgestone on the rear. Not to change the topic, but was wondering your thoughts on this combo.
I know Ed likes the break set up.
Kevin
I see you have Goodyear on the front wheel and Bridgestone on the rear. Not to change the topic, but was wondering your thoughts on this combo.
I know Ed likes the break set up.
Kevin
Any rotor that is cross drilled will crack. It is normal and not a major concern.
But that is why people go to slotted rotors as previously said by Stormcat. Also the drilled holes clog preventing ventilation and trapping gas/air at the rotor as the brakes are applied.
But that is why people go to slotted rotors as previously said by Stormcat. Also the drilled holes clog preventing ventilation and trapping gas/air at the rotor as the brakes are applied.
I have several track days on my stock brake rotors and Mintec pads, as well as six runs at The Texas Mile.
I looked over my brakes and suspension during last weeks detailing and did not notice any cracks.
But to be safe, where exactly do the rotors tend to crack so I can check them out again. Do they crack along the braking/pad surface area or near the center?
Thanks. :thumbsup
I looked over my brakes and suspension during last weeks detailing and did not notice any cracks.
But to be safe, where exactly do the rotors tend to crack so I can check them out again. Do they crack along the braking/pad surface area or near the center?
Thanks. :thumbsup
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Mullet
FORD GT OWNER
I had 30 runs on my stock rotors and pads and the rotors were SHOT. large cracks all the way through from top to bottom on both front rotors. I got a set of front Brembo slotted rotors and new pads from Shadowman. Bolts right on to the stock hardware. Not cheap but they look to be able to take the beating I do to them.
PL510*Jeff
Well-known member
Questions--not answers
Torrie,
1) how many miles on those pads and rotors prior to the mile?
2) did you do a close up inspection prior to the Mile? And after the Texas World Speedway.
3) how hard do you use the brakes on the street vs the track.
4) Have you re-placed the pads more than twice on the original rotors?
and finally
5) Do you want a one mile track/only set up? Or combo usage. Street, road track and mile?
If you answer those questions, people way better informed than me can give suggestions as to what to consider for your TT Pussycat!
Which btw looked good, sounded great and ran really fast!
It was Great to see you and the Mrs. again.
Torrie,
1) how many miles on those pads and rotors prior to the mile?
2) did you do a close up inspection prior to the Mile? And after the Texas World Speedway.
3) how hard do you use the brakes on the street vs the track.
4) Have you re-placed the pads more than twice on the original rotors?
and finally
5) Do you want a one mile track/only set up? Or combo usage. Street, road track and mile?
If you answer those questions, people way better informed than me can give suggestions as to what to consider for your TT Pussycat!
Which btw looked good, sounded great and ran really fast!
It was Great to see you and the Mrs. again.
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STORMCAT
GT
This has been a good set up. I have run the car around the curves and in a straight line.. no issuse ... The Scudies are more quite for sure !!
This is way to complicated Jeff .. Hard brake use = Drilled rotos will eventually crack .... Soild rotos won't !!! ...:biggrin
1) how many miles on those pads and rotors prior to the mile?
35000
2) did you do a close up inspection prior to the Mile? And after the Texas World Speedway.
No just prior to both events.
3) how hard do you use the brakes on the street vs the track.
Not hard on the street.
4) Have you re-placed the pads more than twice on the original rotors?
nope
5) Do you want a one mile track/only set up? Or combo usage. Street, road track and mile?
Combo
35000
2) did you do a close up inspection prior to the Mile? And after the Texas World Speedway.
No just prior to both events.
3) how hard do you use the brakes on the street vs the track.
Not hard on the street.
4) Have you re-placed the pads more than twice on the original rotors?
nope
5) Do you want a one mile track/only set up? Or combo usage. Street, road track and mile?
Combo
- Aug 25, 2006
- 4,436
It is sad but true that cross drilled rotors typically do not weather the extreme moments in time and then add to this the OEM rotors and the Ford Racing two piece rotors are not a track designed rotor; meaning they do not play well with extreme temperature swings and they hate racing pads.
I worked with Brembo as such they created a wonderful slotted two piece rotor setup for these gals that not only works but also weathers the test of extreme moments in time.
Rocketman is a great example of a person having used them very "hard" and had no issues and no service life concerns and Mullet is soon to experience the same.
Let me know if I can be of assistance
All the best
Shadowman
I worked with Brembo as such they created a wonderful slotted two piece rotor setup for these gals that not only works but also weathers the test of extreme moments in time.
Rocketman is a great example of a person having used them very "hard" and had no issues and no service life concerns and Mullet is soon to experience the same.
Let me know if I can be of assistance
All the best
Shadowman
Torrie my buddy,
Do take brakes seriously!!I wanted to find the most reasonably priced/effective set up .When considering braking one must have components that are going to work together to achieve the same expected level of performance.What I mean is you must have the correct pads for the track .Pagid yellows are an endurance pad for racing .These work awesome and ,yes you can use them on the street with no problem . I would warn you that cool weather lower than 60 degrees I would not be recommended . Use the pagid blues .
The next factor is the fluid use castrol dot 4 or the new one .I use super blue 600 which seems to work great .The super blue I would also use in the clutch .Be careful bleeding the clutch ,it has a very small reservoir .
Next you need a rotor that will join the team .That clearly is the Brembo racing 2 piece floating rotor!!An excellent component.They can be rebuilt and work great !!Shadowman is the man who can hook you up!!!Thank you Bill The brake ducting is an involved job.But worth doing in my opinion.
Other wise take out the piece blocking the duct ,something is better than nothing.Another interesting note is the fins on the factory rotors are not directional and therefore do not help funneling air out of the rotor and calipers!!The Brembos are directional and this is a big plus !I only replaced the front rotors because all you braking bias is on the front.. I must say the braking balance/bias of the car is very good.I use the pads on all 4 corners.Do this and you are all set !!
If cost is not an issue than go with the big brake kit .It is a great set up.BUT YOU MUST USE THE CORRECT BRAKE FLUID,CASTROL OR SUPER BLUE AND YOU MUST USE A RACING /ENDURANCE PAD.Ferodo DS3000 pads for the big brake set up.I had a friend who did the big brake kit and did not use the Ferodo pads and the brake pads over heated and ruined his week end !!Remember its all about have the correct components working at the same expected level.
The rotors can be bought from Shadowman.The big brake kit can be got from Shadowman or Stillen.
The pads and fluids I would recommend Shadowmanor Northstar motor sports ,ask for John http://www.northstarmotorsports.com Both good guys .
Remember ,Brakes only slow you down!!
OK my 02
Do take brakes seriously!!I wanted to find the most reasonably priced/effective set up .When considering braking one must have components that are going to work together to achieve the same expected level of performance.What I mean is you must have the correct pads for the track .Pagid yellows are an endurance pad for racing .These work awesome and ,yes you can use them on the street with no problem . I would warn you that cool weather lower than 60 degrees I would not be recommended . Use the pagid blues .
The next factor is the fluid use castrol dot 4 or the new one .I use super blue 600 which seems to work great .The super blue I would also use in the clutch .Be careful bleeding the clutch ,it has a very small reservoir .
Next you need a rotor that will join the team .That clearly is the Brembo racing 2 piece floating rotor!!An excellent component.They can be rebuilt and work great !!Shadowman is the man who can hook you up!!!Thank you Bill The brake ducting is an involved job.But worth doing in my opinion.
Other wise take out the piece blocking the duct ,something is better than nothing.Another interesting note is the fins on the factory rotors are not directional and therefore do not help funneling air out of the rotor and calipers!!The Brembos are directional and this is a big plus !I only replaced the front rotors because all you braking bias is on the front.. I must say the braking balance/bias of the car is very good.I use the pads on all 4 corners.Do this and you are all set !!
If cost is not an issue than go with the big brake kit .It is a great set up.BUT YOU MUST USE THE CORRECT BRAKE FLUID,CASTROL OR SUPER BLUE AND YOU MUST USE A RACING /ENDURANCE PAD.Ferodo DS3000 pads for the big brake set up.I had a friend who did the big brake kit and did not use the Ferodo pads and the brake pads over heated and ruined his week end !!Remember its all about have the correct components working at the same expected level.
The rotors can be bought from Shadowman.The big brake kit can be got from Shadowman or Stillen.
The pads and fluids I would recommend Shadowmanor Northstar motor sports ,ask for John http://www.northstarmotorsports.com Both good guys .
Remember ,Brakes only slow you down!!
OK my 02
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skyrex
FORD GT OWNER
