Brake Pad Replacemnt
- Thread starter dandaman
- Start date
- Aug 25, 2006
- 4,436
Hi Dan
The process to replace the pads is easy
Kick me a PM and I will share my number and you can call and I will walk you through the process
All the best
Shadowman
Mark06GT
GT Owner
Actually, anything you can post publicly would be helpful to me. I’m taking my GT up to Watkins Glenn in a couple weeks for a couple days of driving. I’ve bought an extra set of front pads since I think I may wear down the set currently on the car. There’s a mechanic at the track who will do the pad change for me, but it would be nice if I new what I was watching.
- Aug 25, 2006
- 4,436
**** Thank you for the confidence ****
I am in the process of finishing some dash wiring and then I will gladly post a step by step for replacing brake pads.
I want to take a few minutes with a clear head so that I present a nice "How To" for you folks as such I may not get to it until tomorrow.
All the best
Shadowman
I am in the process of finishing some dash wiring and then I will gladly post a step by step for replacing brake pads.
I want to take a few minutes with a clear head so that I present a nice "How To" for you folks as such I may not get to it until tomorrow.
All the best
Shadowman
Mark06GT
GT Owner
May 3rd & 4th. Trackmasters, novice group (my first time on a track). I'm not worried about speed yet. Just staying out of the walls will make me happy.
What's a Hoosier?
Pad swap, very easy, you will need a small punch to tap out the 2 slider pins, just pay attention to the spring clip that keeps the pads in place. Once both pins are out, carefully use a bar to press the pads out to push the pistons into the caliper, install the new pads, pins and spring clips. Caliper does not have to be removed. Will take longer to get the wheels off than it does to swap the pads. Calipers and pads are the same front and rear....
Hope this helps
Hope this helps
- Aug 25, 2006
- 4,436
*** Replacing Ford GT Brake Pads ***
Let me begin by saying that IMO the most awkward part of the process is the time spent removing the wheel(s) and properly securing the gal on a stand or ?
You should have the following;
1. Small 1/8 – 3/16 pinch
2. Small hammer
3. Flat blade screw driver with a medium to wide blade end but no more than a foot long
4. Pliers
5. High temp grease
6. Blue tape
7. Rags and Windex
Now once the wheel has been removed I clean the caliper and then tape the area of the caliper that I will be working so as to insure that no secondary damage is caused; you wil not be removing the caliper but rather the pads.
On the top of the caliper there are two pins that are slid in from the outside of the gal in and they are held in position by a small retainer that is fixed to the pin and the pressure as applied by the spring that they rest on.
Take your small drift punch and the hammer and from the inside tap either of the pins towards the outside of the caliper. Once it is out ½” or so you can use the pliers to grab the exposed end and methodically twist back and forth as you pull it out. It helps to use a finger to press down on the metal plate that the pin is sliding across; this is the spring because in doing so you will relieve the tension and the pin will come out easy. Once the first pin has been removed the second pin and the spring will come out easy too.
Now if you are installing new pads before you remove the old pads take the flat blade screw driver and use it as a bit of a pry bar and set it against the rotor and as you press the handle allow the tip to press against the pad which will slowly move the caliper pistons back into their bore; this is needed because the new pads will be thicker.
Once you have done this simply slide the old pads straight up and out. You will notice a thin tin plate on the outside of them; this is the anti vibration/squeak plate so if the new pads so not come with this them reuse it; it is a non wear item.
Reassembly is as follows;
Slide the new pads into position; sometimes you will need to use the pad as a bit if a leverage device as you move the caliper pistons in a bit more but rest assured that the process is not difficult and once you have done it you will find the next time to be a no brainer.
Once the pads are in place make certain that the two pins and the spring have been cleaned and that a thin film of high temp grease has been applied to the pins.
Then set the spring on top of the pads making certain of the orientation and then slide one of the pins in position; once you get down to the last ½” carefully use the drift punch and tap it in the rest of the way. Now when installing the second pin you will need to press the spring down so the pin will slide over it and into the hole on the other side of the caliper. Once the pin is in the other side then slowly tap it into position always being careful not to scratch the caliper.
At this point you will have completed the installation of pads on one caliper; remove the blue tape, reinstall the wheel and properly torque the lug nuts and move on to the next.
Here are a few pictures as well
I hope that this helps
Takes care
Shadowman
Let me begin by saying that IMO the most awkward part of the process is the time spent removing the wheel(s) and properly securing the gal on a stand or ?
You should have the following;
1. Small 1/8 – 3/16 pinch
2. Small hammer
3. Flat blade screw driver with a medium to wide blade end but no more than a foot long
4. Pliers
5. High temp grease
6. Blue tape
7. Rags and Windex
Now once the wheel has been removed I clean the caliper and then tape the area of the caliper that I will be working so as to insure that no secondary damage is caused; you wil not be removing the caliper but rather the pads.
On the top of the caliper there are two pins that are slid in from the outside of the gal in and they are held in position by a small retainer that is fixed to the pin and the pressure as applied by the spring that they rest on.
Take your small drift punch and the hammer and from the inside tap either of the pins towards the outside of the caliper. Once it is out ½” or so you can use the pliers to grab the exposed end and methodically twist back and forth as you pull it out. It helps to use a finger to press down on the metal plate that the pin is sliding across; this is the spring because in doing so you will relieve the tension and the pin will come out easy. Once the first pin has been removed the second pin and the spring will come out easy too.
Now if you are installing new pads before you remove the old pads take the flat blade screw driver and use it as a bit of a pry bar and set it against the rotor and as you press the handle allow the tip to press against the pad which will slowly move the caliper pistons back into their bore; this is needed because the new pads will be thicker.
Once you have done this simply slide the old pads straight up and out. You will notice a thin tin plate on the outside of them; this is the anti vibration/squeak plate so if the new pads so not come with this them reuse it; it is a non wear item.
Reassembly is as follows;
Slide the new pads into position; sometimes you will need to use the pad as a bit if a leverage device as you move the caliper pistons in a bit more but rest assured that the process is not difficult and once you have done it you will find the next time to be a no brainer.
Once the pads are in place make certain that the two pins and the spring have been cleaned and that a thin film of high temp grease has been applied to the pins.
Then set the spring on top of the pads making certain of the orientation and then slide one of the pins in position; once you get down to the last ½” carefully use the drift punch and tap it in the rest of the way. Now when installing the second pin you will need to press the spring down so the pin will slide over it and into the hole on the other side of the caliper. Once the pin is in the other side then slowly tap it into position always being careful not to scratch the caliper.
At this point you will have completed the installation of pads on one caliper; remove the blue tape, reinstall the wheel and properly torque the lug nuts and move on to the next.
Here are a few pictures as well
I hope that this helps
Takes care
Shadowman
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B O N Y
MODERATOR & FGT OWNER
Thanks Bill.
One point, the factory pads are best for every day driving. Nothing quite like leaving the garage with you full comp pads, hit the bottom of the street, have to panic stop, and just hear the screech of cold pads on cold disks... as you slam into something hard and firm.
One point, the factory pads are best for every day driving. Nothing quite like leaving the garage with you full comp pads, hit the bottom of the street, have to panic stop, and just hear the screech of cold pads on cold disks... as you slam into something hard and firm.
BlackICE
GT Owner
+1.
I have been guilty of running a mild race pad on the street long ago. Normally I needed about 25% more pedal pressure when cold. That was something I could live with since you still could get the anti-lock to activate without any problems. However to my shock and surprise the 1st time I got stuck driving in the rain the brakes didn't work at all for about 25', and then only poorly from some distance after that! Just like using rims brakes on the wet chrome rims used on the bicycles from many decades ago. It was a good thing I didn't really need to stop quickly.
Mark06GT
GT Owner
M
Mark O
Guest
- Aug 25, 2006
- 4,436
They do not squeak because they are aluminum LOL; not a block of wood
Takes care
Shadowman
timcantwell
Le Mans 2010 Sponsor * Moderator
I have run with the Trackmaster group at Watkins in the past. You will have a great time with this group. The track is awesome, but very hard to learn given the length and the walls. It will take you many laps before you are comfortable. And by the way, the Hoosiers are awesome. I used my Michelin Pilot Cup tire at the Glen and they worked great as well.
B O N Y
MODERATOR & FGT OWNER
fjpikul
GT Owner
Shadowman, not questioning your expertise, but as a "closed" hydraulic system, do you not need to open the cap on the master brake cylinder to relieve pressure when backing out the pistons? Thanks, your student forever, Frank