Brake and Clutch Bleeding: Vacuum Method


UFO74

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Nov 17, 2008
147
Ft. Myers, FL
This post should be read in conjunction with posts entitled Brake Bleeding Systems, Ford GT Tech, page 4 and Rookie gets knocked off Pedestal Today, Ford GT Tech, page 3. These are the only two posts I found on brake bleeding. I believe there are additional posts on clutch bleeding without the use of a power bleeder.

CONCLUSION:
In early June after discussions with professional mechanic friends, the Snap On guy and research on this forum I purchased a Mityvac vacuum bleeder that operates off a shop compressor. I bled both the brakes and clutch system on my Ultima and my Ford GT, without the assistance of a second person. The system worked as promised. I was impressed. www.mityvac.com I have no financial interest in this company. Model MV 6835 will contain all the necessary gear to bleed both the brakes and clutch on the Ford GT. The Mityvac sites lists the stores which carry their products, however, I was not able to locate the model I was looking for (one with a couple of more options than MV 6835 that I later determined were unnecessary for my purposes) from any of the stores listed. Finally, Fran purchased the kit for me off eBay. She has the eBay account, which I never used. I like living in the 50s.

FACTS:
My main goals were:
1. To be able to work alone.
2. To be able to bleed both the brakes and clutch systems on the Ultima and Ford GT.

DISCUSSION:
1. I do not profess to be an expert. I am putting together what I have learned from my own experiences and from talking with experts in the field.

2. Mityvac makes a hand held vacuum bleeder. I own one and do not recommend it for brake or clutch bleeding. (I have used it mostly to test whether a particular item such as a power valves will hold vacuum). The Mityvac I just purchased depends on vacuum created by a venture in the bleeder tank and uses a standard shop compressor.

3. There are two types of pressure bleeders. The one discussed in the two previous posts on the forum rely on pressure created by pumping it up by hand. The second pressure system not discussed on the forum relies on pressure created by the shop compressor. Pressure bleeders are generally preferred by the professionals. I believe in part because they require less work and may be quicker.

4. I have used the pressure bleeders, both types, in the past, borrowing them from friends who owned shops. I decided to purchase my own, so I could use the Dot 4 fluid I decided upon without any mixing or contamination.

5. I purchased the Vacuum system for the following reasons.
a. With a pressure system you must have a cap to fit each different reservoir. For example with the Ford GT the cap size on the brake master and the clutch master appear to be different sizes. The Mityvac vacuum system as applied to the GT does not require a cap. (See Picture)
b. With a pressure bleeder when there is no cap available to fit the reservoirs you must use a multi purpose plate either rectangle or round held down by either a chain system made of metal or bungee cords made of rubber. These generally work pretty well when the reservoirs were made of metal, however with the flimsy plastic reservoirs obtaining a perfect seal without damaging the reservoir may in some cases become a challenge. If you do not obtain a proper seal fluid could easily escape and damage the paint. With the vacuum system the master cylinders are fed gently by gravity. If the gravity feed is properly installed and operating properly there are no leaks, and if one develops it will not spray brake fluid all over the place under pressure. The Ultima presented a special problem. One, no cap was available. Two, I could not purchase a cap separately and modify it and Three, the reservoir is an after market unit that was not manufactured in a way to properly secure the tie down straps necessary for the plate cover. Not a problem with the vacuum system. The only problem I had with the Ultima was the location of the clutch master. It is under a cross member so that the gravity feed bottle (picture) with the attachments sent with the unit could not be used. That is why I order the additional attachments. However, after the Mityvac arrived I machined an extension which allowed me to use the gravity feed bottle seen in the pictures.
c. With the hand pressure system described in the other posts on the forum you put the brand new fluid in a tank. You then proceed to pressurize it will air from the atmosphere, which in FL is not particularly dry air. According to a NASA friend this defeats the purpose keeping moisture out of the system and fluid. To what degree this matters, I have no idea. The preferred pressure systems usually used in conjunction with a shop compressor maintain a bladder between the new brake fluid and the air so as not to contaminate the fluid. These are the most expensive systems.
If you are one of those who enjoy working on your own car and decide to do take these responsibilities on, hope the above info provides a starting point for your own research.

UFO/Al

When I motified the pictures to fit on the site lost the bleeding tank attached to wheel. Sorry

If you decide to utilize either system for clutch bleeding suggest you read post by Shadowman on the subject of clutch bleeding. Per his recommendation, I used the bleeder screw located on the passenger side of the transaxle.
 

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Lorenzo

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Dec 28, 2008
626
U.S.A.
Nice work, Im really diggin that tile floor your Gal is resting on, also it was really fun talking to you the other day.
Lorenzo
 

2112

Blue/white 06'
Mark II Lifetime
Nice write up.

I was told modern brake fluids don't kill paint like the old days, untrue?

.
 

BlackICE

GT Owner
Nov 2, 2005
1,416
SF Bay Area in California
Dot 3 and 4 fluids aren't any safer than the old days, but modern paint formulations have changed quite a bit. So if brake fluids are less damaging today it is due to a change in the paint rather than the brake fluid. I hope never to have to find out!
 
Last edited:

2112

Blue/white 06'
Mark II Lifetime
Agreed.

I did lift some Dupont Centari off of a 1967 MGB I restored and drove as an undergrad. One drop and the paint came right off in seconds. :frown

God I don't miss that car :ack. Never went anywhere without a tow strap. I had a Hanyes manual to guide service. The first sentence in almost every chapter was "REMOVE ENGINE" as if it were like disconnecting the battery. :bored

:usa
 
Aug 25, 2006
4,436
This post should be read in conjunction with posts entitled Brake Bleeding Systems, Ford GT Tech, page 4 and Rookie gets knocked off Pedestal Today, Ford GT Tech, page 3. These are the only two posts I found on brake bleeding. I believe there are additional posts on clutch bleeding without the use of a power bleeder.

CONCLUSION:
In early June after discussions with professional mechanic friends, the Snap On guy and research on this forum I purchased a Mityvac vacuum bleeder that operates off a shop compressor. I bled both the brakes and clutch system on my Ultima and my Ford GT, without the assistance of a second person. The system worked as promised. I was impressed. www.mityvac.com I have no financial interest in this company. Model MV 6835 will contain all the necessary gear to bleed both the brakes and clutch on the Ford GT. The Mityvac sites lists the stores which carry their products, however, I was not able to locate the model I was looking for (one with a couple of more options than MV 6835 that I later determined were unnecessary for my purposes) from any of the stores listed. Finally, Fran purchased the kit for me off eBay. She has the eBay account, which I never used. I like living in the 50s.

FACTS:
My main goals were:
1. To be able to work alone.
2. To be able to bleed both the brakes and clutch systems on the Ultima and Ford GT.

DISCUSSION:
1. I do not profess to be an expert. I am putting together what I have learned from my own experiences and from talking with experts in the field.

2. Mityvac makes a hand held vacuum bleeder. I own one and do not recommend it for brake or clutch bleeding. (I have used it mostly to test whether a particular item such as a power valves will hold vacuum). The Mityvac I just purchased depends on vacuum created by a venture in the bleeder tank and uses a standard shop compressor.

3. There are two types of pressure bleeders. The one discussed in the two previous posts on the forum rely on pressure created by pumping it up by hand. The second pressure system not discussed on the forum relies on pressure created by the shop compressor. Pressure bleeders are generally preferred by the professionals. I believe in part because they require less work and may be quicker.

4. I have used the pressure bleeders, both types, in the past, borrowing them from friends who owned shops. I decided to purchase my own, so I could use the Dot 4 fluid I decided upon without any mixing or contamination.

5. I purchased the Vacuum system for the following reasons.
a. With a pressure system you must have a cap to fit each different reservoir. For example with the Ford GT the cap size on the brake master and the clutch master appear to be different sizes. The Mityvac vacuum system as applied to the GT does not require a cap. (See Picture)
b. With a pressure bleeder when there is no cap available to fit the reservoirs you must use a multi purpose plate either rectangle or round held down by either a chain system made of metal or bungee cords made of rubber. These generally work pretty well when the reservoirs were made of metal, however with the flimsy plastic reservoirs obtaining a perfect seal without damaging the reservoir may in some cases become a challenge. If you do not obtain a proper seal fluid could easily escape and damage the paint. With the vacuum system the master cylinders are fed gently by gravity. If the gravity feed is properly installed and operating properly there are no leaks, and if one develops it will not spray brake fluid all over the place under pressure. The Ultima presented a special problem. One, no cap was available. Two, I could not purchase a cap separately and modify it and Three, the reservoir is an after market unit that was not manufactured in a way to properly secure the tie down straps necessary for the plate cover. Not a problem with the vacuum system. The only problem I had with the Ultima was the location of the clutch master. It is under a cross member so that the gravity feed bottle (picture) with the attachments sent with the unit could not be used. That is why I order the additional attachments. However, after the Mityvac arrived I machined an extension which allowed me to use the gravity feed bottle seen in the pictures.
c. With the hand pressure system described in the other posts on the forum you put the brand new fluid in a tank. You then proceed to pressurize it will air from the atmosphere, which in FL is not particularly dry air. According to a NASA friend this defeats the purpose keeping moisture out of the system and fluid. To what degree this matters, I have no idea. The preferred pressure systems usually used in conjunction with a shop compressor maintain a bladder between the new brake fluid and the air so as not to contaminate the fluid. These are the most expensive systems.
If you are one of those who enjoy working on your own car and decide to do take these responsibilities on, hope the above info provides a starting point for your own research.

UFO/Al

When I motified the pictures to fit on the site lost the bleeding tank attached to wheel. Sorry

If you decide to utilize either system for clutch bleeding suggest you read post by Shadowman on the subject of clutch bleeding. Per his recommendation, I used the bleeder screw located on the passenger side of the transaxle.

You did very well and thank you for sharing your experience; you continue to take extreme care of “Shadow” and for this I thank you.

I still tend to brake fluids with the expectation that should it land on paint trouble will follow as such I do not use pressure bleeders because for me the risk is too high as I am not tending to my gals most of the time but rather another’s gal and for me to have share with them that we had/have an issue is a call that I never wish to make.

Nonetheless I enjoyed the write up and expect that it will help many as time goes by; these gals are all due to have their brake and clutch fluids changed if it has not already been done.

Takes care

Shadowman
 

Indy GT

Yea, I got one...too
Mark IV Lifetime
Jan 14, 2006
2,526
Greenwood, IN
c. With the hand pressure system described in the other posts on the forum you put the brand new fluid in a tank. You then proceed to pressurize it will air from the atmosphere, which in FL is not particularly dry air. According to a NASA friend this defeats the purpose keeping moisture out of the system and fluid. To what degree this matters, I have no idea.

Very informative write up and I changed out my fluid (to the Motul just as you show) with a hand held vacuum pump as well. I agree the pressure systems typically afforded to us may present the opportunity for brake fluid leaks which I care not to invite. I too agree, the gravity/vacuum approach is my choice as well.

On the topic of non-bladder pressure systems, I agree with your NASA friend. Pressurizing the air above the fluid in the master cylinder to force the fluid into the system can and does force the inherent moisture in the pressurized air into the moisture receptive new fluid thus somewhat compromising its dry boiling point from day one. This was the second reason I favor the gravity/vacuum system.

Another trick I came to use was removing each of the bleeder fittings on the calipers and wrapping the threads with teflon tape. This "seals" the threads as the fitting is reinstalled in the caliper body and allows the vacuum to "suck" the brake fluid from the master cylinder instead of short circuiting the process and sucking air around the threads of the bleeder fitting.
 

Howard

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Apr 26, 2007
1,137
Florida/North Jersey
Why use that scarry looking inverted bottle of brake fluid over the reservoir? Wouldn't it be just as effective to add fluid from the fluid can as required to prevent the reservoir from going dry? How do you remove the inverted bottle without dribbling brake fluid? Does it overfill the reservoir?

Howard
 

UFO74

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Nov 17, 2008
147
Ft. Myers, FL
Nice work, Im really diggin that tile floor your Gal is resting on, also it was really fun talking to you the other day.
Lorenzo

Lorenzo: I enjoyed talking with you as well. Not to late to join our Air Force and Navy contingent for SCUBA in Grand Caymen this month.

UFO
 

UFO74

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Nov 17, 2008
147
Ft. Myers, FL
Why use that scarry looking inverted bottle of brake fluid over the reservoir? Wouldn't it be just as effective to add fluid from the fluid can as required to prevent the reservoir from going dry? How do you remove the inverted bottle without dribbling brake fluid? Does it overfill the reservoir?

Howard

Howard:

Refer to first picture. There is knob perpendicular to the flow nozzle which is a shut off valve. Fill bottle and secure. Turn over before you ever go near car, if all ok then the discharge nozzle is inserted in the bracket which is attached to the master cylinder. (Bracket also in picture) The sliver clip on flow nozzle sets the nozzle at proper length at the max file line in the master cylinder. Turn on value on by lining handle of shut off value up with nozzle. When done bleeding shut of the valve by turning into off position. If you are careful will not loose a drop. The mityvac site has full instructions for use. Reason for this system is so one person can do job without running back and forth to the master.

It is gravity flow and stops when the fluid reaches the tip of nozzle. I was also apprehensive and tested throughly before I actually used with water and jar, particularly when I extended the length of the nozzle with the Ultima. However as an aside, if you were to drilll a hole in the bottom of the fill bottle while it was unside down installed in the master with the valve open, the fluid would run all over the place.

The only thing that concerned me was the size of the clutch master in both the Ford GT and the Ultima, both very small. I was concerned that the flow rate in the feed bottle would not keep up with the amount of fluid being evacuated. Thus when bleeding both clutches, would only leave the bleed screw open for short intervals of time to make sure that the
master was full and no air was drawn into the system.

Hope this answers your questions.

UFO
 
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Howard

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Apr 26, 2007
1,137
Florida/North Jersey
Thank you!

Howard