Another trailer question...

[TEXAS GT]

Would somebody explain to me the principles behind the load distributing hitch and the anti-sway bar. I think I understand the hitch but can you run one without the other?

I got my new trailer and now I have to buy these two parts. Can somebody recommend anything? There are a lot of options out there and I skipped school the day they had trailer class.

It's an enclosed 20 footer and I just ordered the tow vehicle today, a Ford Harley-Davidson V-10 F-250.

 

[FlorIdaho Chris]

Would somebody explain to me the principles behind the load distributing hitch and the anti-sway bar. I think I understand the hitch but can you run one without the other?

I got my new trailer and now I have to buy these two parts. Can somebody recommend anything? There are a lot of options out there and I skipped school the day they had trailer class.

It's an enclosed 20 footer and I just ordered the tow vehicle today, a Ford Harley-Davidson V-10 F-250.

Have you thought about towing without the sway bar/load hitch first to see if you really need it? My F250 pulls an enclosed trailer with GT just fine w/o those devices. Just a thought...

 

[cobrajeff]

Trailer Towing

The weight-distributing hitch and anti-sway bars are two distinct pieces of equipment. I have both, but I typically use the anti-sway bar strictly for long hauls on open highway.

The load-distributing hitch balances the load of the trailer to both axles of the tow vehicle. It is especially helpful if your tow vehicle is marginal for the tow job. I tow an 18' enclosed trailer with a V8 Mercury Mountaineer. It's not the fastest rig around, but, it gets the job done. Even though my Mounty is equipped with a Class-III trailer tow package (6500#) and load-leveling suspension, I can see and feel the difference when using or not using the load-leveling hitch. When pulling the trailer empty, I do not use the equalizer bars. When loaded, I use the equalizer bars.

The anti-sway bar is helpful to reduce sway of the trailer on the open highway when passing (or getting passed by) 18 wheelers. There is typically a tremendous wind force generated by those rigs, and you have to be cautious and prepared for it out on the highway. The anti-sway bar reduxces the trailer's reaction to that significantly. The reason I do not use it around town is that, you cannot back-up your rig with the anti-sway bar connected without damaging it - you have to disconnect it to back-up. Rather than worrying about forgetting to disconnect it, I just don't use it for short trips or non-highway use.

Both of them will improve your towing experience, especially if your rig is loaded anywhere near the limits.

regards,

Jeff

 

[Not 4N]

I have put 10's of thousands of miles behind me with an enclosed 20 footer and an F-250 V10. Never needed these pieces as the tow rig is more than stable. You will notice when passing a semi and you get nose to nose with him you are fighting his wake and once the end of your trailer clears his nose you will feel your rig pull slightly toward him. Not a big deal when you know it's coming.
Weight distribution can easily be adjusted with where you place the load and there is no easier load to adjust than a vehicle. The sway bars may help a lighter truck in heavy cross winds and you will feel it even in this rig.
In my opinion the most important thing about loading for a safe pull is tongue weight. 10-15% should be on the tongue. If it is too light the truck will feel like it is lifting and bouncing side to side at highway speeds. You don't have to be moving to see if there is too much weight on the truck as it should sit down a little but not sag.

With th GT I place the rear wheels about 1 foot aft of the rear wheels of the trailer because of the weight distribution of the GT. This seam to be a perfect spot and I don't even feel the trailer behind me.
Earlier this year I upgraded to an '08 F-350SD diesel and with it's extra weight(8200lbs vs 6600lbs in the V-10) it is even more stable. The trip to Indy and back was without incident and over the weekend I had a load of 16,000lbs on this truck - more than capable:thumbsup

:cheers
Trent

 

[S592R]

I use to haul a 28 foot enclosed trailer with about 4500 pounds in it with a 3/4 ton dodge extended cab 4X4 ... so that was really pushing the limits. the guys are all posting great advice but one thing you want to consider is braking. Its one thing to get started and another to get stopped. I have heard that a load leveling hitch will help stop a trailer faster since the shift of the weight is not as drastic. I do not know if this is true or just a great story. But the one thing that I did on my truck when I pulled my race trailer was to upgrade the brakes as much as possible. Even something as simple as changing your brake hoses to stainless steel makes a huge difference. Also look at trailer brake options in the past I have used my trailer brakes to correct a wiggle in my trailer caused by wind or that nut trucker that just passed. A good controller set to engage just before your truck brakes may just be what you need.

hope this all helps.

 

[TEXAS GT]

Yes, all the above is a huge help. I think you guys just saved me a lot of time, trouble and money. I'll run it without all the extra gadgets for a while before I drop several hundred on stuff I don't need.

Now I'll just wait on my truck so I can do a test run.

Thanks everybody!

 

[Specracer]

Have you considered going deisel, vs gas in the truck? I know there is a $5k delta, but it will haul better, and you will see the residual on resale, and have to stop less for fuel.

I have a 24' and I have both sway, and load bars (came on the trailer) use the set up for almost 15 years, tows great (usually hauling a race car vs the GT). If buying another trailer I would get them again. Any options to increase the comfort (even if only in your head), and safety of a tow is all good in my mind. Remember this is a $160k car, so why scrimp the couple of hunderd.......

 

[dan]

OK
I just read allot and now I have something to add. I tow a 28' enclosed with my f350 single wheel v10. It tows like a dream. I usually have 2 vintage mini's in the trailer and there is no way to get the weight right so I use 1000 pound load bars from reese. If you have nothing I suggest you get the bars with the cams to control sway. THE MOST IMPORTANT THING is to be sure your hitch is at the right height with a loaded trailer. I was forced to tow to mini meet a few years ago with an excusion. Nice ride but hitch was 2" lower and my adjustable hitch is a little less adjustable due to some rust. I ran it anyway and as soon as I 60 MPH the rig started to sway. Problem is the roof of the trailer acts as a wing. If it is lower in the front, at speed the air on the roof will push down on the rear, lifting the front of the trailer, hitched to the back of the truck... Allot of fun in hurry.

Start with the right hitch at the right height, load the car and drive around. If you have the ability to load the car with a scale under the jack you can get the tounge weight perfect and mark the floor with something permanent.

If you need to get trailer stuff email me at dan@northcoasttools.com and I think I might be able to get a deal for you. We normally sell tools, gojaks and the like but one of our customers is a trailer parts distrubuter and gives me some great deals in return for great deals.

just my 2 cents
start without anything and see what happens around town.
dan