Garage Lift issue (need your help)

[maxemus]

I am stumped and need you guys to guide me in the right direction. I had these single post lifts installed by the builder that did my house back in 2010. I don't know about any other municipality's building code but in Miami you need a certain slope for garages(at least that's what I've been told). The builder decided on his own to "level out" the base of the post to mitigate the slope of the floor. He added concrete to achieve this. Sounded good on paper but he didn't count on there being low cars coming over the base. Since I haven't lowered my GT's it hasn't been an issue but I did break the brake duct on my super snake a few years ago. At this point I would like to fix this well in advance of my 18'a arrival so I'd like to hear what you guys have to say about this.

My initial thought is to take the lifts apart so I can remove the excess concrete that was added then re-install them. What I don't know is if I'm supposed to shimmy them to try to get them to lean less than they would be without any help.

Here are a few pics so you guys can see the problem.

Here's how it looks at maximum height.

 

[ROCK]

Maxemus,
Two options:
Call Kiki (305) 962-4963, he just installed my lift, he is BendPak's installer in the Miami area and knows his stuff.
I can keep your new FGT in my garage for you !
Regards !!

 

[maxemus]

Maxemus,
Two options:
Call Kiki (305) 962-4963, he just installed my lift, he is BendPak's installer in the Miami area and knows his stuff.
I can keep your new FGT in my garage for you !
Regards !!

Thanks Roque

 

[Xcentric]

The lift must be level. No lean permitted. The manufacturer will specify a maximum slope...something like 1" in 10'...and you can shim to compensate.

Any greater slope and you're supposed to level the floor. The bottom support should be in contact with the floor for its full width.

Also, do you know the thickness of the concrete floor? Minimum 4" required, and maybe re-bar too.

For sure, I would call Kiki or equivalent professional if you want to eliminate the hump.

I was going to say you could install full length ramps on the floor, but then the lift wouldn't drop all the way. Then you'd need race ramps to get the car off the lift. And, you probably don't want raised ramps to trip over. Still, it's a work around, if a bit awkward.

I don't understand why the floor slopes toward the center instead of toward the garage door. That's what it looks like in the photos. Is there a drain in the center?

 

[Sinovac]

It's going to be tough to remedy at this point, but you could recess the entire base, which is what I would have done when the floor was poured. Call a contractor and ask if they can cut a recess and re-pour a recessed pad for the base.

 

[Simon]

Do you have spare tiles to finish out that beautiful floor once you find your solution? Your space is well done!

 

[STORMCAT]

I would leave the lift as is a make elevated runners... race ramp style or aluminum that could be moved easily.

 

[FENZO]

This recent observation of mine doesn't help your issue, but damn that's a beautiful garage. Kudos to the builder for such a quality looking workaround.

We are looking at spec'ing a home in a neighborhood that has some rule that a certain number of the homes must have no-step garages. That is, that you don't have to step up into the home, so the garage is sloped from the garage doors to the entry way. I was mortified.... imagining rolling tool boxes and everything being sloped. Presumably for the elderly or handy-capped.

 

[AJB]

I was always of the understanding that the "at least one step-up from garage to living space" was to keep oil and gasoline fumes from entering the living quarters from the garage area.

The downward slope was for water to exit the garage when the main door was opened.

andy (ajb)

andy (ajb)

 

[Tomcat]

I was always of the understanding that the "at least one step-up from garage to living space" was to keep oil and gasoline fumes from entering the living quarters from the garage area.

The downward slope was for water to exit the garage when the main door was opened.

andy (ajb)

andy (ajb)

This is what I though too...

 

[mmlcobra]

Why not get a set of Race Ramps and not do more construction?
Best,
Mark

 

[RPM217]

I agree with Mark, I use the Race Ramps to put both the GT and NSX (both lowered) on and off the BendPak double wide lift. My only regret, is that I didn't get the aluminum ramps, as those steel ramps, are heavy mothers................

 

[Xcentric]

I don't see how race ramps alone would work. Put them on both sides of the hump and you still have a hump that apparently is higher than car clearance.

The problem as I understand it is not getting on and off the lift. The problem is parking a low clearance car under the raised lift and negotiating the hump.

 

[RPM217]

I don't see how race ramps alone would work. Put them on both sides of the hump and you still have a hump that apparently is higher than car clearance.

The problem as I understand it is not getting on and off the lift. The problem is parking a low clearance car under the raised lift and negotiating the hump.

Race Ramps alone is not what I do, I put the race ramps at the end of the steel ramps, this allows my "lowered" cars the ability to get on and off the lift.
I don't know how the "hump" would deter you from parking under the lift, was the lift raised.

 

[Xcentric]

I don't know how the "hump" would deter you from parking under the lift, was the lift raised.

Read the first post.

 

[maxemus]

The lift must be level. No lean permitted. The manufacturer will specify a maximum slope...something like 1" in 10'...and you can shim to compensate.

Any greater slope and you're supposed to level the floor. The bottom support should be in contact with the floor for its full width.

Also, do you know the thickness of the concrete floor? Minimum 4" required, and maybe re-bar too.

For sure, I would call Kiki or equivalent professional if you want to eliminate the hump.

I was going to say you could install full length ramps on the floor, but then the lift wouldn't drop all the way. Then you'd need race ramps to get the car off the lift. And, you probably don't want raised ramps to trip over. Still, it's a work around, if a bit awkward.

I don't understand why the floor slopes toward the center instead of toward the garage door. That's what it looks like in the photos. Is there a drain in the center?

Gary
4 inches of slab it slopes towards the outside not the center. Must be an optical illusion in pic. I'm going to try using a laser to determine the slope for you.

 

[maxemus]

Do you have spare tiles to finish out that beautiful floor once you find your solution? Your space is well done!

Thanks Simon. I have a few tiles but not enough to do both lifts.

 

[maxemus]

It's going to be tough to remedy at this point, but you could recess the entire base, which is what I would have done when the floor was poured. Call a contractor and ask if they can cut a recess and re-pour a recessed pad for the base.

There was a template used. If you recess this and it's greater than 4 inches tall then I suppose I would have had to put some kind of footing below it. But I agree it would have been best to have them flush.

 

[maxemus]

Ok not that this helps much but I looked at my plans and the slope to the garage doors is 2 inches and the slab is 6 inches. Here's a pic

The bend Pak installed is coming by on Saturday to look at it. Will update this over the weekend.

 

[maxemus]

I don't see how race ramps alone would work. Put them on both sides of the hump and you still have a hump that apparently is higher than car clearance.

The problem as I understand it is not getting on and off the lift. The problem is parking a low clearance car under the raised lift and negotiating the hump.

Bingo