Cost of Oil Change?

[UB2SLOW]

I am a new owner taking delivery of my 2005 FGT w/2000 miles tomorrow! The first thing on my "to-do" list is to take my car to the Ford dealer for a oil change. I searched the forum trying to find out what the average charge $$ is for this at a Ford dealer but could not find anything. How much are you guys paying for an oil change? My dealer said it would be about $220. Sounds high, much higher than my Viper oil changes. Please advise...

Thanks!

 

[AJB]

Sounds like a good price from your dealer for all the work needed. I have had mine changed twice so far ...approximately $285.00 each time. Takes about 3 hrs.
AJB

 

[Kayvan]

Congrats

Congrats

-You might want to check in the owners forum for a dealer near you with SVT trained tech or experience with GTs, ie, draining, refil, exact quart count etc....there are some horror stories

-Many dealers dont stock the Motorcraft oil, filter, and seal, etc.

-In addition there is a starter/priming method that some folks dont know of, prior to restart...

-And finally, some believe no oil is needed till the 3k OR 5k RANGE, SINCE ITS FACTORY BREAK IN OIL in there

-Lastly you can have VIN service print out done to see if prior owner has done a recent change.

 

[UB2SLOW]

Thanks, this dealer does have a FGT trained tech and seems to sell many SVT products. I have done some checking and can not find records from Ford of any oil change so I thought I should change it to be on the safe side. Am I understanding that this may not be a good idea with only 2000 miles? Let me know what you guys think.

 

[AJB]

Change it ! It is ALWAYS a good idea to have fresh oil.
Plus you have no history on the car and want to start fresh.
But as Kayvan states, be sure they follow the 'process'
AJB

 

[B.M.F.]

I usaully change my oil on new cars after 500 miles.

 

[jaxgt]

might want to put in magnetic drainplugs during change.

 

[Pete S.]

I agree with all the above. I think my local dealer with the FGT trained; somewhat; mechanic was doing the oil changes properly, and the cost was about the same. If you are within an area visited by the GT Guys, or live in the area of many of the other excellent mechanics within this forum, that is another option. If you are anywhere near Wash. D.C., the GT Guys will be close next month, and if you cannot wait, bring it to my garage. Plenty of filters and oil on the shelf.

Pete S.

 

[UB2SLOW]

I live northeast of Atlanta about 30 miles in Suwanee, GA. Any owners in my area want to tell me where they get oil changes? I do appreciate everyone's comments and help!

 

[Kirby Vieira]

I am a new owner taking delivery of my 2005 FGT w/2000 miles tomorrow! The first thing on my "to-do" list is to take my car to the Ford dealer for a oil change. I searched the forum trying to find out what the average charge $$ is for this at a Ford dealer but could not find anything. How much are you guys paying for an oil change? My dealer said it would be about $220. Sounds high, much higher than my Viper oil changes. Please advise...

Thanks!

Rich, I sent you a PM. Give me a call before taking your car to any Atlanta Ford Dealer.

 

[nota4re]

On a 2005 car with 2000 miles, I would also recommend that you do a transaxle fluid change at the same time (pans off). The first transaxle fluid change (recommended at 1 year, regardless of miles) will yield some pretty nasty looking oil. Subsequent changes will likely show cleaner "old" oil. The transaxle fluid change is straightforward but make sure they pull the plug with the screen (driver's side) as well as the plug with the magnet (passenger's side). Both screen and magnet should be thoroughly cleaned before re-installing. The transaxle will take just under 4 quarts of oil - fill-plug on Driver's side of transaxle. Expect the transaxle fluid to cost ~$38-$40 per quart and make sure it is Part number: XT-75W90-QGT. Don't use anything else in the transaxle.

For the engine oil, make sure they use XO-5W50-QGT. Some dealerships may advise that Mobil 1 is OK. It is not. Mobil 1 does not offer the proper 5w50 viscosity as required for the GT motor. They should remove all three drain plugs, and they should use a torque wrench for re-installation. As both bottom pans will be off, I always take the opportunity for a quick visual inspection. Look for any oil leaking from the plastic oil pump belt cover. Inspect the power steering pump for leaking (a residual 1-2 drops of red fluid on the pump with no large spot on the pan is normal, in my opinion.) Finally, inspect the OEM engine oil cooler for any signs of leaks - some have had manufacturing defects.

The Ford tech should follow GT-specific priming procedure to prime the dry-sump components prior to re-start.

 

[Nardo GT]

Ford dealer charges me $75 labor. I buy the correct Ford 5w50 full Synthetic oil (9-10 qts @ $8.58 per qt.) plus I use the Mann Filters about $4.00 each(exact same as Ford)....total oil change about $160 bucks.

 

[UB2SLOW]

On a 2005 car with 2000 miles, I would also recommend that you do a transaxle fluid change at the same time (pans off). The first transaxle fluid change (recommended at 1 year, regardless of miles) will yield some pretty nasty looking oil. Subsequent changes will likely show cleaner "old" oil. The transaxle fluid change is straightforward but make sure they pull the plug with the screen (driver's side) as well as the plug with the magnet (passenger's side). Both screen and magnet should be thoroughly cleaned before re-installing. The transaxle will take just under 4 quarts of oil - fill-plug on Driver's side of transaxle. Expect the transaxle fluid to cost ~$38-$40 per quart and make sure it is Part number: XT-75W90-QGT. Don't use anything else in the transaxle.

For the engine oil, make sure they use XO-5W50-QGT. Some dealerships may advise that Mobil 1 is OK. It is not. Mobil 1 does not offer the proper 5w50 viscosity as required for the GT motor. They should remove all three drain plugs, and they should use a torque wrench for re-installation. As both bottom pans will be off, I always take the opportunity for a quick visual inspection. Look for any oil leaking from the plastic oil pump belt cover. Inspect the power steering pump for leaking (a residual 1-2 drops of red fluid on the pump with no large spot on the pan is normal, in my opinion.) Finally, inspect the OEM engine oil cooler for any signs of leaks - some have had manufacturing defects.

The Ford tech should follow GT-specific priming procedure to prime the dry-sump components prior to re-start.

Awesome information! Keep in coming guys! I have a Viper but I admit I know NOTHING about my FGT. With all of your help, this will quickly change.


Kirby...I will call you tomorrow as well.

Thanks everyone. This seems like a great group.:thumbsup

 

[fjpikul]

Usually costs me about $300 at the dealer, so 220 sounds good. Don't leave the car unattended.

 

[shelbyelite]

That is cheap.

 

[Empty Pockets]

'Suggest you SPEAK WITH the "tech" who'll be doing the oil change BEFORE the job is done. Ask him specifically WHERE/HOW he lifts the car (if he isn't using a 4 poster hoist). 'Very important it's lifted P-R-O-P-E-R-L-Y. (This assumes the work isn't done by a Forum member recommended dealer who's had experience with same.)

Also, ask him what his proceedure is when STARTING the car after the oil's been changed. Have him take you step by step so YOU know HE knows. (If you don't know that proceedure yourself, just say so and someone here will gladly outline if for you. )

There have been some real H-O-R-R-O-R stories about oil changes involving supposedly factory trained GT techs. :cheers

 

[Kingman]

......... They should remove all three drain plugs, and they should use a torque wrench for re-installation...........

Thanks Kendall!
What do you recommend for the torque settings?

 

[HHGT]

I get my oil changes done for free at Kendall's. We usually trade his fee for me cleaning his house windows while dressed in thongs! His neighbors don't like it, but OLD MAN KENDALL DOES NOT MIND...:ack

 

[Kingman]

You're a sick sick...very sick man

 

[nota4re]

What do you recommend for the torque settings?

I don't second guess the awesome team that designed this car :wink

Oil Drain Plugs (All): 18 lb-ft
Oil Filter cap: 18 lb-ft
Transaxle Drains (2) and Fill Plug: 20 lb-ft

One more tip for those that haven't done a change themselves yet...

The new oil filter cartridge slides over a plastic web'd sleeve that is attached to the cap. When you slide the cartridge on, you will likely be fooled into thinking you have it on all the way, but you will discover that it may be very hard to engage the cap threads when placing back into the housing. So, the trick is that the filter needs to be pressed onto the cap another ~.25" or so. Careful not to crush the filter, but if you seat it into the cap correctly, then it will be a breeze to thread the assembly back into the housing.