The Accufab axel bolt kits give you a torqure range. Not the Ford method..Can someone here give me a really simple explanation why they came up with torque to x then 90 degrees? Also how is that different to a higher torque setting. Sorry to sound dense but somewhere its just not making sense to me.
Actually I thought it was .... Torque until tight enough that you think it will break the tool(socket, hex or torx bit) of the next person who works on the car .. then add 50nm!! Yes ... I have a collection of broken snap-on tools waiting for my rep.Don't know, but I heard it differently : The ideal torque for any fastener is " 1) tighten until head snaps off, 2) back off 1/4 turn."
Simply stated, it is because it is really not about torque - it is about having the right "stretch" of the fastener. Ideally, every time you saw a torque spec, you would see a "stretch" spec. You would install the fastener, torque it, and then remove it to check the stretch achieved. If not enough, then you would install and repeat. Ultimately, you would find the torque that achieved the right stretch. So, which would you publish?Can someone here give me a really simple explanation why they came up with torque to x then 90 degrees?
We need an exploding brain emoticon.
So now that I am significantly less confused, more or less than before, but not as much as I was yesterday, but significantly more than I was the day I was born, and yet less than the moment that I got this cerebral hemorrage trying to figure out which bolt to use on my car, but not as much as I was before I asked the remaining question that I dare to ask. Can a TTY bolt be reused if it is over torqued due to operator error, or rather to say the technician that comes into review some previous work removes the bolt without knowledge of the previous installation?
I think I am going to go buy a set of accufabs and mix them with the ford kit just to play russian roulette. :bored