Tailamp Removal Help

[JOETWINT]

Okay so I removed the three nuts holding the tailamp in along with disconnecting the wiring and it still does not want to come out.:frownThe bottom seems free and from what I can see there is a tab at the top that holds the top in place.I assume it is installed top first and then the bottom is slid through the hole and bolted in?Are there any tricks i don't know about that is not in the workshop manual?I don't want to push to hard and mess anything up?Some help from others who have done this before would be greatly appreciated.Joe

 

[fjpikul]

Service Manual says one time use only. ShelbyElite seems to be the master at this. Contact him.

 

[Shadowman]

Okay so I removed the three nuts holding the tailamp in along with disconnecting the wiring and it still does not want to come out.:frownThe bottom seems free and from what I can see there is a tab at the top that holds the top in place.I assume it is installed top first and then the bottom is slid through the hole and bolted in?Are there any tricks i don't know about that is not in the workshop manual?I don't want to push to hard and mess anything up?Some help from others who have done this before would be greatly appreciated.Joe

Hi Joe

With the three nuts removed you can pop it out; the upper edge has a molded in place securing/indexing tab however with a little downward pressure as you pull out at the bottom it/they will pop out.

Now I know that folks are reusing them however I have a pair that were removed and the percentage of plastic shaft lost as the result of the initial cutting of the threads by the OEM nut and then the process of removing the nut removes even more which leaves me; very concerned.

Here are pictures of the securing tab as well as the condition of the plastic studs once the tail lamps have been removed.

Takes care

Shadowman

 

[Specracer]

I have not removed my taillights, but in looking at the pix, could something like this be used to modify and attach with different hardware?

http://www.boltdepot.com/hanger-bolts.aspx

 

[JOETWINT]

Hi Joe

With the three nuts removed you can pop it out; the upper edge has a molded in place securing/indexing tab however with a little downward pressure as you pull out at the bottom it/they will pop out.

Now I know that folks are reusing them however I have a pair that were removed and the percentage of plastic shaft lost as the result of the initial cutting of the threads by the OEM nut and then the process of removing the nut removes even more which leaves me; very concerned.

Here are pictures of the securing tab as well as the condition of the plastic studs once the tail lamps have been removed.

Takes care

Shadowman

Hey Bill, excellent pics and thanks for the tip, will give it a try tonight.:thumbsupAs far as the light being reusable,well I don't think so because the threads on my light look much like the threads on the pics provided ,in fact,the were already overtightened from the factory and a couple of the oem nuts were loose.I am gonna try to mod the ones I have first before i buy new ones.

 

[shelbyelite]

Hey Bill, excellent pics and thanks for the tip, will give it a try tonight.:thumbsupAs far as the light being reusable,well I don't think so because the threads on my light look much like the threads on the pics provided ,in fact,the were already overtightened from the factory and a couple of the oem nuts were loose.I am gonna try to mod the ones I have first before i buy new ones.

We have not had any issues reusing the lights and we have removed atleast 15 sets of them, tinted them and reinstalled them. If your posts are TOO worn down, there are smaller nuts, like the ones ford used, that you can get and also use a washer. Again, we have never, not one time, had an issue getting the old ones to go back on the car an hold over long periods of time without fail. Now, there is a first time for everything but I am just relaying our experence. :thumbsup

pe2unia, chime in here as we just did your lights. Did you have any problems getting them back on the car?

 

[pe2unia]

We have not had any issues reusing the lights and we have removed atleast 15 sets of them, tinted them and reinstalled them. If your posts are TOO worn down, there are smaller nuts, like the ones ford used, that you can get and also use a washer. Again, we have never, not one time, had an issue getting the old ones to go back on the car an hold over long periods of time without fail. Now, there is a first time for everything but I am just relaying our experence. :thumbsup

pe2unia, chime in here as we just did your lights. Did you have any problems getting them back on the car?

Just as Shelby was saying we just did two a few weeks ago with no problems what so ever (I was nervous as well). I did put washers under mine so that the nut would stop in a different area and you will not be able to wrench down the nut so all you will need to do is snug them down (FINGER tight) as I only used a socket and extension and barely turned on the nut until I was happy with them. Not a problem:thumbsup

 

[JOETWINT]

Thanks John,Shelby,and Shadowman for the advice ........I got them out without any damage although it they did require a good amount of downward pressure and a little wiggling to get them out.I do understand why Shelby has had no problems with securing them on the reinstall because the oem nuts only hold the tailights "slightly" up against the fascia.They are really held in by virtue of being a very tight compressed fit and due to the stud locations being all at the bottom.IMO they would not fall out even if the oem nuts were left off,in fact,one would most likely need to get rearended by a train for them to pop out.:rofl Off to get tinted tomorrow!

 

[shelbyelite]

Thanks John,Shelby,and Shadowman for the advice ........I got them out without any damage although it they did require a good amount of downward pressure and a little wiggling to get them out.I do understand why Shelby has had no problems with securing them on the reinstall because the oem nuts only hold the tailights "slightly" up against the fascia.They are really held in by virtue of being a very tight compressed fit and due to the stud locations being all at the bottom.IMO they would not fall out even if the oem nuts were left off,in fact,one would most likely need to get rearended by a train for them to pop out.:rofl Off to get tinted tomorrow!

Who is tinting them? Be sure they do not go too dark and have done this many times before as you really only get one shot at it. If they spray them too dark they will not be very visible thus putting you at higher risk of possibly being rear-ended.....
They will look very good tinted on your black beauty! :thumbsup

 

[BlackICE]

Shelby is right, you only get one shot. BTW replacement tail lights are not inexpensive!

 

[JOETWINT]

Who is tinting them? Be sure they do not go too dark and have done this many times before as you really only get one shot at it. If they spray them too dark they will not be very visible thus putting you at higher risk of possibly being rear-ended.....
They will look very good tinted on your black beauty! :thumbsup

Thanks Shelby,these guys are doing them http://www.detailingdynamics.com/
as they have done all of my other cars as well as the side markers on the GT.Thanks for the advice ,I will keep that in mind.

 

[centerpunch]

Tinted taillights? Am I missing something here?

 

[nsfkid]

I have not removed my taillights, but in looking at the pix, could something like this be used to modify and attach with different hardware?

http://www.boltdepot.com/hanger-bolts.aspx

The LED's in the taillight are right at the back of the housing.
You cannot penetrate the housing at the mounting point's without hitting the LED or the reflectors that go behind them.


When I use new taillights, I use a different style of speed nut. It looks the same, just does not cut such a deep groove in the plastic and at a course thread rate. So they can be removed at a later date without the material loss
but still have the original strength.
Mike

 

[BlackICE]

If you are installing new tailights wouldn't it make sense to cut real threads on the post with a die and using a real nut?

 

[nsfkid]

If you are installing new tailights wouldn't it make sense to cut real threads on the post with a die and using a real nut?

Their wouldn't be enough "meat" left on the treadings to be able to put enough torque on the nuts in my opinion.
It would hold in place, but not give enough vibration and shock resistance for my liking.
Mike.

 

[Specracer]

Yes, I was suggesting tapping the plastic "stud" that is extending. Only a thought.

The LED's in the taillight are right at the back of the housing.
You cannot penetrate the housing at the mounting point's without hitting the LED or the reflectors that go behind them.

 

[RALPHIE]

Would putting some tape around the plastic studs (to rebuild their diameter) help on those that have had too much thread removal?

 

[JOETWINT]

I was thinking of experimenting with marking the studs and drilling crossway through the stud and using a cotter pin and washer to install.This way they could be removed and installed as much as needed.Much like the cotter pins used to hold the clamshell pins in.

 

[tcm668]

Guys, how about using some material such as JB Weld or other epoxy to build up the mounting stud ?

One other thing to look into is a product called Plasti-Pair... It is a 2 part solvent/ polystyrene powder. You can combine the 2 to make a paste, and build up the plactic surfaces. (Kinda like Bondo)

It will bond to most plastics and create a good clamping surface. It does not bond to hard nylon, but from the looks, the plastic of the housing does not appear to be nylon.

I'll try to find the details on the PlastiPair. It was produced by GC Electronics ....

-----

Push come to shove, try and see if Acetone will soften up the plastic. If it will, then you could use Acetone to soften some polystyrene, make like a putty or paste, build up the studs, and let it dry. That should provide a workable bond / claming surface to work with.

Polytryrene is available at any Hobby store. If need be, buy a small snap-tite plasitc model, car or airplane. That'll ive you all the poly you should need.

Just remember that Acetone is very flamable, so do this outside.....

Don ...

 

[tcm668]

Found a Web listing for Plas-T-Pair....

2 Parts, Liquid and Powder. May also be called PlasTex.

http://www.rawnamerica.com/products.php

Scroll down towaards the bottom of the page.....

May be available at local Electronics stores (Other than Radio Shack).

Check if Acetone will soften the plastic, if it will, then this will work for restoring the studs.

Don ...