Still Can't Get First Gear

[Xcentric]

Bleeder on firewall (1st pic). You can see it from the driver side. Reachable with some contortions from the top.

Bleeder on right side of transaxle (2nd pic).

Two person job. Start with firewall bleeder. Press and release clutch pedal 5 times, then press and hold.

Attach a drain tube to the bleeder and put one end in a jar with clean fluid.

Open and close bleeder quickly several times until no air bubbles.

Repeat for the other bleeder.

Don't let the clutch cylinder fluid drop below 3/4. It is very small.

 

[CanadaGT]

Agree with Soroush. Just hook up vacuum bleeder at trans. 10mm nipple. Makes a big difference in feel and actuation of clutch, Check your clutch master cylinder. My guess is the fluid is Black.

 

[Xcentric]

The problem of overheated clutch fluid is not caused by a hot transaxle. The clutch fluid line passes very close to the exhaust. If you have headers, you need heat shielding on the line. This is the area where the fluid can boil. Also, where the starter solenoid can melt from the heat.

 

[GTMD]

Bleeder on firewall (1st pic). You can see it from the driver side. Reachable with some contortions from the top.

Bleeder on right side of transaxle (2nd pic).

Two person job. Start with firewall bleeder. Press and release clutch pedal 5 times, then press and hold.

Attach a drain tube to the bleeder and put one end in a jar with clean fluid.

Open and close bleeder quickly several times until no air bubbles.

Repeat for the other bleeder.

Don't let the clutch cylinder fluid drop below 3/4. It is very small.

View attachment 55864

View attachment 55865

WOW! Thank you Xcentric!!

 

[GTMD]

Hey guys, thanks for the quick replies, feedback and pictures! I am the second owner of this car but I've had it for the vast majority of it's life and I was trained properly on how to operate a manual so I'm very cautious about my shifts and avoiding the unnecessary use of the throwout bearing. So I can't imagine that it would already be worn but I'll keep that in the back of my mind.

To me it still seems like the clutch isn't fully disengaging and I have a feeling that when I changed the clutch fluid myself about a year ago, I didn't do it properly. First, I did it alone and without the proper equipment so the likelihood that there is some air in the lines is reasonably high. Also the squishiness of the first 1.5" of clutch travel makes me think that there's something compressible in the lines.

I'm taking it out this weekend with Special Ed's MiniRally so I'll try to properly bleed the system before I leave to see if that improves the feel and action.

Thanks again for everything guys. Just a testament to how great this forum is!

 

[PeteK]

Around 30,000 miles, mine was getting hard to get into reverse when cold. Made it hard to get out of the garage first thing in the morning. So I'd put in in reverse, then put the clutch down, then start the car. After the 30Kmi (I actually did it about 32Kmi) transmission oil change it worked much better. If you haven't changed the tranny oil in awhile, it's probably overdue, so try that first. If you know how to drive a clutch, you can tell if the clutch is engaging near the floor. It should engage about halfway up. If it's engaging corrrectly in the other gears, I doubt bleeding the clutch will make a difference. Of course, it's cheap and easy to do, so you can try that too.

How many miles on it?

 

[GTMD]

Around 30,000 miles, mine was getting hard to get into reverse when cold. Made it hard to get out of the garage first thing in the morning. So I'd put in in reverse, then put the clutch down, then start the car. After the 30Kmi (I actually did it about 32Kmi) transmission oil change it worked much better. If you haven't changed the tranny oil in awhile, it's probably overdue, so try that first. If you know how to drive a clutch, you can tell if the clutch is engaging near the floor. It should engage about halfway up. If it's engaging corrrectly in the other gears, I doubt bleeding the clutch will make a difference. Of course, it's cheap and easy to do, so you can try that too.

How many miles on it?

Hmmm, good point Pete. I haven't changed the tranny fluid and I've owned the car for almost 9 years. It has 6,100 miles on it. I think that's a very good suggestion.

 

[PeteK]

If it's been awhile since you did fluid replacements, definitely put a brake and clutch fluid flush high on your list. As we've discussed in other threads, the brake fluid absorbs water over time, leading to corrosion in the brake system. That's why it turns dark. It won't make the clutch feel any differently, but it will keep it working properly. Your oil pump belt is probably getting long in the tooth (pun intended) at this point too. I haven't heard of anyone actually having an oil pump belt break, but it's not something you want to risk.

 

[Kayvan]

Also, check the Transaxle vent bolt at rear; to make sure its clean, no residue (right above middle/inside of rear-diffuser.

I had a very slow weep/seepage; hard to tell as diffuser would collect and heat/air would evaporate.

On 3yr service; dealer replaced bolt, crush-washer and sealed with special ford sealant.

 

[GTMD]

If it's been awhile since you did fluid replacements, definitely put a brake and clutch fluid flush high on your list. As we've discussed in other threads, the brake fluid absorbs water over time, leading to corrosion in the brake system. That's why it turns dark. It won't make the clutch feel any differently, but it will keep it working properly. Your oil pump belt is probably getting long in the tooth (pun intended) at this point too. I haven't heard of anyone actually having an oil pump belt break, but it's not something you want to risk.

All good points Pete. I flushed the brakes about 2 years ago and the clutch fluid about a year ago but I probably didn't flush it properly so I'll tackle that again. I know for a fact that I've never changed the transaxle fluid so that is high on my priority list for tomorrow.

Yes, fortunately I had the oil pump belt replaced about 4 years ago so I feel good about that for the time being.

Also, check the Transaxle vent bolt at rear; to make sure its clean, no residue (right above middle/inside of rear-diffuser.

I had a very slow weep/seepage; hard to tell as diffuser would collect and heat/air would evaporate.

On 3yr service; dealer replaced bolt, crush-washer and sealed with special ford sealant.

That's an interesting idea. Didn't think of that one. I'll definitely check that out too Kayvan. Thanks!

 

[TO AWSUM]

Besides making sure the air is out of your clutch system as others have stated, there is a specific procedure that must be done after the fluid is replaced.
Ford GT maintenance manual states:
"NOTE: Clutch reservoir must be kept 3/4 full or higher during bleeding procedure."

"Paragraph 6. Slowly pump the clutch pedal several times to verify there are no leaks. Then depress and release the clutch pedal 5 short cycles and 2 full-traveled cycles. Repeat both cycles 10 times." Lesson learned - This procedure makes a big difference in how well your clutch operates.

"Paragraph 7. Carry out the following checks: Check that the clutch pedal is at the top of travel. Check for correct operation of the clutch. Make sure the clutch reservoir is at the correct level."

I use the MOTIVE positive pressure kit (rather than a vacuum kit) to change my brake and clutch fluids which always keeps reservoir full of fluid and no need to pump the pedal during the replacement of fluid. Makes it a one man operation and no need to open the valve on the firewall because it forces new fluid through the entire system and out the transmission valve without needing to pump the pedal. Much less chance of getting any air in the system. Still need to accomplish the procedure as described in Para 6 after the fluid replacement. https://www.jegs.com/i/Motive+Products/715/0350/10002/-1?mrkgcl=1239&mrkgadid=3330138279&creative=76484878652483&device=c&matchtype=e&jegspromo=thirdparty&msclkid=6545e4c8bcac1b2ff497b838a5f75a43&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Merkle - BSC - Vendor Only Searches&utm_term=4580084407088742&utm_content=Motive Products

 

[GTMD]

Quick update guys.

I changed the transaxle fluid, flushed and bled the clutch fluid and also checked the transaxle vent. All went well and I think things are better. I can say without a doubt that the clutch action feels a TON better and that squishy feeling at the beginning of it's travel is gone. I also think it is slightly easier to get it into gear when cold. Still takes a little finesse but overall not having to fight it as much. Once warm, it's a dream.

So I'll just keep an eye on it, continue to use and enjoy it and keep you all posted if there are other developments.

Again, thank you to all that replied for the great advice and guidance!

 

[soroush]

good to hear you made some progress...

btw I dont remember if you mentioned how old is the clutch in the car? and is it the stock clutch? I remember there were times where people would burn up their stock clutch with very little 3rd gear accidental starts.

 

[GTMD]

Clutch is original stock I believe but I have been exceptionally careful with it's use and I know how to drive a manual very well--no third gear starts ever. That being said, I am second owner so I'm unsure what the original owner may have done with it.

 

[PL510*Jeff]

I had first/reverse engagement troubles - way back when. Problem found after some big effort by the tech's, and a phone call to the GT Guys. Thank you Rich and Denis- again. They called "the man" who knew more about GT shift cables than anyone. He diagnosed my problem perfectly.

The outer jacketing on the shift cables, which are routed throught the Vally of the engine, had become "way too hot" at sometime and melted off. This allowed the cables to bind inside the spiral metal tubing they run through. Had to remove the S/C to do this.

Purchased new shift cable set. Found some heat pad material and wrapped the new cable 100% with it, at least the section that goes through the motor, and wrapped that with metalic heat tape from the race shop (aka my big garage). And we made some higher stand offs too.

Many thousands of miles later no shift issues at all.

 

[Xcentric]

Many thousands of miles later no shift issues at all.

When Jeff says many thousands of miles, he means MANY MANY tens of thousands of miles.

 

[Kayvan]

Concur on cables.

Do a search on "Shift Cable" or "Shifter Cables"; many posts will show up and offer visual / mechanical tests to rule out issues (v. taking center tunnel out, etc). Make sure your shifter is correctly aligned; there is a special tool.

Need help with sticky shifter

It is anodized blue with linkage to the left. Both the OEM shifter and the Ford Racing shifter are anodized blue.

www.fordgtforum.com

https://www.fordgtforum.com/forums/threads/shift-cable-adjustment-specs.26214/#post-326091