If you have hands-on experience with axel bolt replacement...


jbyrnes

FORD GT OWNER
Mark II Lifetime
Jun 13, 2006
224
Louisville CO
I'm going to do the axel bolt & washer changeout on my car and I had a few questions:
Is access better from above or below? (I see Ford recommends a lift but it looks like it's better reached from above).
If the job is accessible from above, can the wheels be left on and the car rolled to access the outer halfshaft bolts? (I think that would simplify reacting the halfshaft from turning while loosening the bolts)
Is the Motorcraft gasket compound that's called for use on the output shafts a high-temp RTV?
I have less than 1K miles on my car. What's the likelihood of having to wrench or easy-out a headless output flange bolt? (I've read here that higher mileage cars are sometimes having to deal with sheared off bolt heads that seat the inner clamping washer).
 

Not 4N

Tungsten GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Apr 5, 2006
885
Calgary AB
I'm going to do the axel bolt & washer changeout on my car and I had a few questions:
Is access better from above or below? (I see Ford recommends a lift but it looks like it's better reached from above).
If the job is accessible from above, can the wheels be left on and the car rolled to access the outer halfshaft bolts? (I think that would simplify reacting the halfshaft from turning while loosening the bolts)
Is the Motorcraft gasket compound that's called for use on the output shafts a high-temp RTV?
I have less than 1K miles on my car. What's the likelihood of having to wrench or easy-out a headless output flange bolt? (I've read here that higher mileage cars are sometimes having to deal with sheared off bolt heads that seat the inner clamping washer).

Access from above is the only way to go and with the wheels removed the access is much better. Use the recommended shop rag on a large screwdiver in the rotor method to offset the torque when loosening the flange bolts. When you are ready to loosen the two shaft bolts, screw one of the flange bolts back in(partially) to give you a spot to use the padded screwdriver technique again.
I used a hi-temp rtv on mine but that may be overkill. I didn't use the Motorcraft brand.
Not sure about the answer to your last question but in the later build cars there was extra loctite applied at the factory so they may be stiff to get out and consequently you run the risk of breaking them when backing them out.

:cheers
Trent
 

nota4re

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Feb 15, 2006
4,018
All good advice from Not 4N.

I prefer the wheels on to do the replacement as the tire provides something to lean over. Also, I have never done the screwdriver trick. Having someone inside stepping on the brake or setting the parking brake makes this part easy.

What's the likelihood of having to wrench or easy-out a headless output flange bolt? (I've read here that higher mileage cars are sometimes having to deal with sheared off bolt heads that seat the inner clamping washer).

Very unlikely that you will run into this. 80%+ of the ones that I have done come out very clean. Refrain from removing the flange from the shaft. Apply an even and thin layer of ATV on the back side of the new washer.

I'll PM you my cell number. Call me if you have any questions or run into any snags.
 

Neilda

GT Owner
Oct 19, 2005
3,559
London, UK
I have no experience of this, but can tell you that at the last Le Mans trip organised by Roush, their mechanic swapped bolts on the roadside in 30 minutes.

:eek

That must qualify as some kind of record.....
 

nota4re

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Feb 15, 2006
4,018
their mechanic swapped bolts on the roadside in 30 minutes.

Definitely pit crew material!
 

dbtgt

One lucky SOB to own a GT
Mark IV Lifetime
Jan 4, 2006
1,105
Tulsa, Oklahoma
Heating the axle bolts with a "micro" soldering torch goes a long way toward relieving the loctite issue on those cars that have had loctite applied.
 

DWR46

GT owner
Mark II Lifetime
Feb 20, 2008
119
Wheels off from above is very easy. High temp RTV like Permatex Ultra Black will work fine. The screwdriver method makes it easy to lock the rotor and keep it from turning. Make sure you ask the ford parts guy to print off the instructions for the job. They are concise and quite clear.
 

jbyrnes

FORD GT OWNER
Mark II Lifetime
Jun 13, 2006
224
Louisville CO
Excellent! Thank you all for the info.
 

fjpikul

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Jan 4, 2006
10,944
Belleville, IL
DBTGT, is that like a cigarette lighter (are you speaking in code)?
 

dbtgt

One lucky SOB to own a GT
Mark IV Lifetime
Jan 4, 2006
1,105
Tulsa, Oklahoma
DBTGT, is that like a cigarette lighter (are you speaking in code)?

No, it's more like a 'tiny little' propane torch! :biggrin
 

gtjoey

Keep Smiling - GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Oct 14, 2005
3,453
Tap out the bolts so you can lock wire them for insurance:thumbsup also smootze the treads with locktite, we also smootzed the back of the washer soooo nothing is shifting/moving or leaking.:thumbsup gtjoey with the cutest avatar around.:lol
 

AJK

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Jul 12, 2006
329
I did one side so far and found using various extensions I could go straight in (wheel off) from wheel well working around suspension. The two differential bolts came out hard because of the loctite. I used the suggested tap to clean the threads and flushed with brake cleaner then ran old bolts in and out until I knew I wouldn't have resistance installing to new bolts to proper torq. The new bolts had some blue loctite already on the threads so I didn't add any. Trans oil ran out when I pulled the coupler apart so I bought the Ford TA-16 (about $15 for a little tube). The coupler had some play on the spline which has been mentioned by others on this board. I did not pull it off but cleaned the area with brake parts cleaner and final wipe with lacquer thinner. After air dry I applied the bead of TA-16 and torqued to spec.

I did have a problem getting the last 1/4 turn on the coupler bolts. I torqued to 30 ft lbs x pattern then loosened each one a full turn then torqued to 21 ft lbs. Even with a breaker bar I could only get about another 30 to 40 degree turn before the torx socket would want to walk out or start eating into the bolts so I quit. Big question to those with past experience. Do you think I'm good to go?

AJK
 

GTNJ

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Sep 21, 2006
1,611
State of Confusion
gtjoey with the cutest avatar around.:lol

It took you Two years Joe. :lol
Glad I could help.
 

mardyn

GT Owner
Dec 20, 2005
490
Beautiful East Texas
I'm still not comfortable with the "Torque to Yield" bolts yet, when I did mine, I just followed the instructions until I got the the one more 1/4 turn thing, I set the torque wrench on 40lbs and clicked away. Marked the bolt head locations with a yellow paint pen, and it's been fine ever since.

mardyn
 

Not 4N

Tungsten GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Apr 5, 2006
885
Calgary AB
I'm still not comfortable with the "Torque to Yield" bolts yet,
mardyn

I agree and that's why I used the Accufabs and am keeping the Ford parts for spares.

:cheers
Trent
 

AJK

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Jul 12, 2006
329
I agree and that's why I used the Accufabs and am keeping the Ford parts for spares.

:cheers
Trent

What bolts does the Accufab kit use for the coupler ( 6 bolts ) and what is the torque spec and procedure ?

AJK
 

Not 4N

Tungsten GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Apr 5, 2006
885
Calgary AB
The Accufabs are an M-10 ARP with 6 point heads. The torque spec is two step with the first to 30ft/lbs and the second to 50-55ft/lbs. Both sequences should be done in a 180 degree offset torque pattern.

:cheers
Trent
 

gtjoey

Keep Smiling - GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Oct 14, 2005
3,453
Not to rehash old comments but remember, if your in doubt the gt guys can do it now in less than 20 minutes, they bought 3 sets of digital:eek torque wrenches for each set of bolts , pre set. I think dennis playing with "bo" my avatar took longer:thumbsup tee hee , thanks gtnj again... gtjoey 1314
 

Jan A. Byrd

GT Owner
Aug 21, 2006
39
Percy IL
With 5,000 miles on my car I finally got around to changing the bolts out. I ran into problems when the allen head bolt head rounded out inside. I had to use a very small grinding disc to cut the bolt head off flush. When I had the head off the washer then came off easily. With the help of a small set of vise grips the bolt came out easily. I was acturally glad I done the repairs myself not knowing what kind of Ford monkey would have dealt with the minor problem I experienced. My car was one of the last built and I'm sure the extra loctite didn't help me out any. Jan Byrd.
 

Beach-GT

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
May 8, 2006
887
Seminole Florida
Did mine from the top. Wheels on. Use torch to loosen the grip in the bolts. Replace the 6 flange bolts and stretch torqe per instructions. Spent 30 minutes on each side being carefull. With wheels on, it is easy to set the brake and torque the bolts. Release the brake and move the car a little to get bolts where easy to reach.