Was looking at engine this evening - and noticed what appears to be a missing header bolt. The larger interior bolt seems to be there, but the "internal" smaller bolt is not.
Doesn't look like any exhaust leaks..
How much of a concern is this?
Header Bolt question
- Thread starter 33Bravo
- Start date
Was looking at engine this evening - and noticed what appears to be a missing header bolt. The larger interior bolt seems to be there, but the "internal" smaller bolt is not.
Doesn't look like any exhaust leaks..
How much of a concern is this?
shelbyelite
PERMANENTLY BANNED
- May 10, 2007
- 1
That's just a different bolt someone used there as the header gets in the way to use the same as the orhers
Empty Pockets
ex-GT Owner
If you want to have a matching 'standard' header bolt in that hole, all you have to do is back off all the header bolts on that bank juuuuuuust far enough so that you can slip a 'standard' bolt thru that particular 'flange hole (after removing the present stud/nut lash-up, of course). Then continually screw this NEW bolt down first as you retighten all the others. By continually 'snugging' that bolt down ahead of all the others, you ought find that you have all the header clearance you need. :cheers
In detail, we can see an OEM stud (small hex on the end) as well as the OEM jet nut. The "missing" bolt as others have noted, is not really missing but is a bolt instead of a stud and nut. In particular, that is a Stage 8 bolt (http://www.stage8.com/perfauto.html). I believe that those headers typically shipped with the Stage 8 bolts but it was impossible to use their ingenious locking system because the bolt recessed too far into the deep (nice!) header flange.
MoTeC Magic
Spectator
Hi Guys,
I had some custom A286 Stainless Steel studs made by ARP. They seat deeply into the head and have only enough thread on the nut side to have a couple of threads past the nut once seated with 3/8" flanges. Because the outboard side is shorter, they also make it easier to install the exhaust since it is less prone to "hanging up" on a shorter stud. They have a female allen drive for installing them. They use a normal nut of course, I use a elliptically locking interference nut that won't back off "JET NUT". The nut is steel so that it is less likely to seize on the stainless stud.
A286 is the best stainless for fasteners in high temp locations. Just my reccomendation and .02 worth
Cheers
The stud closest is the custom short stud. This pic is of the intake side of the head... I drill the head out and retap them to use for my phenolic spacer / water bypass kits, that's what this pic is from
I had some custom A286 Stainless Steel studs made by ARP. They seat deeply into the head and have only enough thread on the nut side to have a couple of threads past the nut once seated with 3/8" flanges. Because the outboard side is shorter, they also make it easier to install the exhaust since it is less prone to "hanging up" on a shorter stud. They have a female allen drive for installing them. They use a normal nut of course, I use a elliptically locking interference nut that won't back off "JET NUT". The nut is steel so that it is less likely to seize on the stainless stud.
A286 is the best stainless for fasteners in high temp locations. Just my reccomendation and .02 worth
Cheers
The stud closest is the custom short stud. This pic is of the intake side of the head... I drill the head out and retap them to use for my phenolic spacer / water bypass kits, that's what this pic is from