Just posted some photo's of my new A.P. racing brakes I just finished if your interested, brake sizes are on the photo's
:cheers Neil
:cheers Neil
GT race brakes
- Thread starter nz05gt
- Start date
STORMCAT
GT
How noticeable is the braking improvement ? Would this setup be acceptable on a street car??
californiacuda
GT Owner
- Oct 21, 2005
- 919
Bigger brakes don't stop cars faster.
The first step in reducing stopping distance is bigger, stickier tires. The next step would be to analyze if the rear bias is at its optimal. Usually the manufacturer will set the rear bias below its threshold for safe stopping so that the rear brakes don't lock-up first.
The benefit of larger rotors is to be able to handle and shed heat faster, so that the brake fluid doesn't boil and cause brake fade. Usually beneficial in road racing where you dive into the corner and brake late, hard, and often.
Surprisingly, lowering the car improves stopping distance. Lower center of gravity and less weight transfer to the front tires, so that the rear tires are weighted more and provide more road friction Sorry for being so analytical.
The first step in reducing stopping distance is bigger, stickier tires. The next step would be to analyze if the rear bias is at its optimal. Usually the manufacturer will set the rear bias below its threshold for safe stopping so that the rear brakes don't lock-up first.
The benefit of larger rotors is to be able to handle and shed heat faster, so that the brake fluid doesn't boil and cause brake fade. Usually beneficial in road racing where you dive into the corner and brake late, hard, and often.
Surprisingly, lowering the car improves stopping distance. Lower center of gravity and less weight transfer to the front tires, so that the rear tires are weighted more and provide more road friction Sorry for being so analytical.
No this would be far to much for a street setup, this setup is for 6 hour races where brake temps reach 800 deg c ,please note this is designed for a race setup with many other changes in suspension/weight/geometry/tyres/aero etc to complement this brake package.:cheers
Neil
Stormcat
Most brake manufacturers that offer race pads speciifically state they are not for street use. As Neil mentioned much higher levels of heat are required for race pads to be truly effective. Even high speed driving events may not generate enough heat, depending upon driving style/agressiveness.
Also rotor wear is generally increased when using race pads.
Those that use race pads on the street are creating an unsafe situation IMO.
Dave
Last edited:
BlackICE
GT Owner
Yes. In the past I found that out. While the race pads worked OK for street driving, more pedal pressure was needed until the pads and rotors warmed up. That was not a big problem since the cars could still stopped very well and activated the anti-locks. But my 1st time in the rain a different story, the car had ZERO braking for about 25 to 50 feet at a slow speed of about 35 mph. It work much like bicycle rim brakes on chrome rim.
I changed them before I took the car out on the street again.
STORMCAT
GT
Fubar
Totally ****** Up
I am not a technician (by any means) so excuse the uninformed questions, but... Why do those rotors only have divots in them for ventilation and not holes? It seems like a flat surface would give you maximum braking and holes would give you the best ventilation. What gives?
Holes have a tendecy to allow cracks to form. The cracks radiate from the outer edges of the holes.
Slots or dimples are felt to be more effective in letting gases escape as the brakes are used. Thus this is the preferred method.
Hope this helps.
Dave
californiacuda
GT Owner
- Oct 21, 2005
- 919
In every day driving the brake assembly doesn't usually get very hot. Drilling for gas and brake pad dust removal (or looks) would probably be ok. But in a race application slotting is usually better for the reason mentioned in previous post.