Coolant additives, which one is best? A review


BlackICE

GT Owner
Nov 2, 2005
1,416
SF Bay Area in California
Here is a review of some coolant additives, DEI, Redline, Justice Brothers and Hy-perlube. Anyone have any experience with any of the products. I know that some forum members use Redline Water Wetter. Anyone use any of the others?

http://www.turbomagazine.com/features/0703_turp_cooling_system_additives

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GT Charlie

Member
Jun 23, 2007
16
San Francisco Bay Area
I have experience with the Red Line product in a comp dragster it worked very well . However in my oppnion your GT will be just fine with the premium gold coolant that came factory in your super car.
 

BlackICE

GT Owner
Nov 2, 2005
1,416
SF Bay Area in California
Any downside to Water Wetter? Whipple recommends it and anything that reduces water temps in the intercooler and engine will help keep ECM from pulling out some spark advance, less power drop in heat.

Also another post mentioned replacing the anti-freeze with Evans Coolant. I don't know if that is safe for a GT. Has anyone tried Evans?

Edit: I just read on Evan's website that the heat capacity of Evans Coolant is 27% less than water and therefore you may need 27% more coolant flow. Evans doesn't seem like a good match for the GT.
 
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GT Charlie

Member
Jun 23, 2007
16
San Francisco Bay Area
No downside to water wetter it reduces the air bubbles that accumulate on the back of the cylinder walls that increases the efficiency of the cooling system. Your premium gold coolant has superior additives that increase the cooling system life with no downsides.
 
Aug 25, 2006
4,436
A great product one that we have used for many years with nothing but good results.

Shadowman
 

BlackICE

GT Owner
Nov 2, 2005
1,416
SF Bay Area in California
Shadowman,

So Water Wetter is the one to use. I checked the service manual and it shows the following capacities,

Engine 8.3 Gallons/33 Quarts
Supercharger 20 Quarts

Water Wetter ratio is 12oz bottle for 14 to 16 quarts. So it looks like 4 bottles to do both. I am thinking of a 20% anti-freeze to water ratio. Somehow I don't feel safe with 100% water. I am not worried about freezing, but that WW alone doesn't have all that is needed for the engine. Do you have any experience with 100% and WW? Is that safe?
 

Ed Sims

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Apr 7, 2006
7,850
NorCal
Water Wetter

Black Ice - I put one bottle of Water Wetter with the Supercharger coolant & 2 bottles in the Engine coolant. I'm running 20% anti-freeze to distilled water. It has been working well on the road & track.

Ed
 
Aug 25, 2006
4,436
Shadowman,

So Water Wetter is the one to use. I checked the service manual and it shows the following capacities,

Engine 8.3 Gallons/33 Quarts
Supercharger 20 Quarts

Water Wetter ratio is 12oz bottle for 14 to 16 quarts. So it looks like 4 bottles to do both. I am thinking of a 20% anti-freeze to water ratio. Somehow I don't feel safe with 100% water. I am not worried about freezing, but that WW alone doesn't have all that is needed for the engine. Do you have any experience with 100% and WW? Is that safe?

Yes sir I have experience with only water and I also agree that Redline's Wetter Water is the way to go. Here is my routine as used on my gals and other's for many a year

The primary cooling system would receive 20-25% OEM antifreeze... in the case of the GT I use only the OEM Ford Gold product; I always pre-mix with distilled water before pouring fluids into the gal. While the gal's systems are empty (in the case of the GT) I pour in 2 1/2 bottles of WetterWater into the primary system and 1 1/2 bottles into the intercooler system and then proceed with the normal filling of the pre-mix at that time.

Do NOT use 100% water as the antifreeze (poorly referred to by most) is better referred to as a coolant system conditioner with one of the benefits being that it protects the system from freezing.

Here are a few examples of the benefits received when using a coolant and water mixture; the coolant lubricates the water pump seals, maintains a film on the aluminum to curb corrosion, and increases the systems boiling point.

Takes care

Shadowman
 

FLASH

GT Owner/Board of Directors
Mark IV Lifetime
Aug 29, 2006
61
Atlanta, Ga.
What a timely thread. Two weeks ago I ran at the Little Talladega Grand Prix coarse and I had horrendous over heating problems. Previous to this I ran at Road Atlanta with some long straights (alot of 3rd & 4th gear 130-145 mph)and a totally stock engine. However when we put it on the dyno (475 rwhp/456 tq) it was very rich in the higher rpm's and as a matter of fact it was blowing orange flames on the straights. At RA the outside temps were about 80 degrees and the engine temp stayed between 205 & 210.
Before my run at Talladega I had the Kenne Bell snout with the 2 3/4 pulley and the GT Guys &Jerry's super flash tune. The A/F mix was corrected and the dyno result was 600 rwhp/567 tq. a hugh difference.
That weekend at Talladega the outside temps were 95+ and the track was short and tight 2nd & 3rd gear, 110-120 on the one long straight. Once the temp got over 200 degrees it kept on going to 235. I had to back off the higher rpm's and sometimes came off the track early, couldn't even finish the 15 min. session.
The next day I had a seasoned driver take me around in my car and he said that with all the torque I would be better off shifting between 3000 & 4000 rpm and the car would be more controllable in the tight turns. He was absolutely correct and it did manage to keep the temps down to 205-210 and ran faster laps.
Naturally with the higher temps I felt the power go away as my boost was way down because of the engine management. I was dissapointed that the GT did not have a better cooling system to handle those extreme conditions.
I contrast I went around with another driver in his stock Cayman S and he drove the sh*t out of that car. In fact he shredded one of his tires after 1 1/2 days. Ironically even though he was constantally in the rev limiter his temps were never higher than when he would be crusing the freeways. That really impressed me. I also took a Lambo Gallardo and a Lotus out for a few laps and they did not experience the over heating problems. Am I the only one experiencing this? Would I benefit from these wetting agents by adding them to my current 50/50 mix? Thanks,
Flash :cheers
 

B O N Y

MODERATOR & FGT OWNER
Mark IV Lifetime
Sep 5, 2005
12,110
Fresno, Ca.
I am a water wetter believer. Seems to help! I wonder if Purple K has a similar product?? :)
 

B O N Y

MODERATOR & FGT OWNER
Mark IV Lifetime
Sep 5, 2005
12,110
Fresno, Ca.
What a timely thread. Two weeks ago I ran at the Little Talladega Grand Prix coarse and I had horrendous over heating problems. Previous to this I ran at Road Atlanta with some long straights (alot of 3rd & 4th gear 130-145 mph)and a totally stock engine. However when we put it on the dyno (475 rwhp/456 tq) it was very rich in the higher rpm's and as a matter of fact it was blowing orange flames on the straights. At RA the outside temps were about 80 degrees and the engine temp stayed between 205 & 210.
Before my run at Talladega I had the Kenne Bell snout with the 2 3/4 pulley and the GT Guys &Jerry's super flash tune. The A/F mix was corrected and the dyno result was 600 rwhp/567 tq. a hugh difference.
That weekend at Talladega the outside temps were 95+ and the track was short and tight 2nd & 3rd gear, 110-120 on the one long straight. Once the temp got over 200 degrees it kept on going to 235. I had to back off the higher rpm's and sometimes came off the track early, couldn't even finish the 15 min. session.
The next day I had a seasoned driver take me around in my car and he said that with all the torque I would be better off shifting between 3000 & 4000 rpm and the car would be more controllable in the tight turns. He was absolutely correct and it did manage to keep the temps down to 205-210 and ran faster laps.
Naturally with the higher temps I felt the power go away as my boost was way down because of the engine management. I was dissapointed that the GT did not have a better cooling system to handle those extreme conditions.
I contrast I went around with another driver in his stock Cayman S and he drove the sh*t out of that car. In fact he shredded one of his tires after 1 1/2 days. Ironically even though he was constantally in the rev limiter his temps were never higher than when he would be crusing the freeways. That really impressed me. I also took a Lambo Gallardo and a Lotus out for a few laps and they did not experience the over heating problems. Am I the only one experiencing this? Would I benefit from these wetting agents by adding them to my current 50/50 mix? Thanks,
Flash :cheers

May I suggest an Accufab, Ida or Heffner exhaust as your next mod, also the tranny cooler seems like a must have for you. Keep us posted, good luck!
 

cobrar1339

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Feb 2, 2006
956
Diamond Bar, Ca
Boost is heat = reduction in power at point X.

My experience is that naturally aspirated power is more reliable power on a road course. Heat soak is evil to boosted cars. There have been many methods tried to reduce it. Heak soak becomes a probem when the intercooler can no longer shed off the extra heat produced by the blower/turbo.

That said I have also seen boosted cars without over heating issues in the cooling systems. So It think we have two issues here. They collide at some point and feed off one another to make the entire situation worse.

For blown and turbo cars some of the soultions are:
Add an intercooler - Done
Add a bigger intercooler - Done
Add a water based intercooler - Done

Spray the intercooler with a mist of water to remove heat soak - EVO has one
Run water or methanol injection to cool the intake air - Lots of opinions here.
Add yet a bigger intercooler-
More air flow to the intercooler -

Water Wetter will help, but it is not real likely it would have totally solved your issues in a short tight track in very high temps.

We have two issues to attack. Improved cooling system performance can help the heak soak issues as well. But there are plenty of cars that do not overheat the cooling systems and still have heat soak that reduces power.

If you were to go to the EVO, Subie, BMW 335i forums you will likely see the same discussions on heat soak and some on engine cooling. If you go to the Corvette forums they will talk about oil temps getting too high on the C5 cars.

Personally I hate short tight tracks as they are hard on any car. Not much chance to ingest good air. Drafting other cars also tends to reduce the performance of the cooling system as well. Some call it getting dirty air. On short track you have to learn to rely on momentum vs. brute power.Your instructor is right, but I think 3,000 - 4,000 is pretty low. Maybe a 5,500 redline is what I would try for those kind of tracks in hot weather.
 

fjpikul

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Jan 4, 2006
11,475
Belleville, IL
I think Bony is right. New exhaust and cooler as a start. Did your tune change the fan turn-on temp? BaronDW is also an excellent reference.
 

BlackICE

GT Owner
Nov 2, 2005
1,416
SF Bay Area in California
I am a water wetter believer. Seems to help! I wonder if Purple K has a similar product?? :)

Bony, why do you always ask about the Purple K stuff? They do have a "competing" product!

http://www.royalpurple.com/prodsa/prpice.html
 

fjpikul

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Jan 4, 2006
11,475
Belleville, IL
He's just abbreviating Purple KY jelly, a favorite Fresno pastime treat.
 

FLASH

GT Owner/Board of Directors
Mark IV Lifetime
Aug 29, 2006
61
Atlanta, Ga.
I forgot to mention that I have the tran cooler and an exhaust that is similar to the Accufab. It was made by the same fellow that made the earlier Kenetic exhausts. He is since on his own and goes under the name Fatcatfabricators. I believe the outside temps were tough. To clearify my earlier post, I was running in the 3000 to 5000 range. I used 5000 to 5500 as a shift point depending on the turns. The car ran faster with the lower temps and was more stable in the turns at the lower rpms. I did spin out one the first day with a few 360's. Some were on the pavement and one on the grass.
Usually I had more warning on the back getting loose than this time. It really happened very quickly.
Flash
 

fjpikul

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Jan 4, 2006
11,475
Belleville, IL
Sounds like you took driving lessons from Tungsten.
 

MAD IN NC

Proud Owner/ BOD blah bla
Mark IV Lifetime
Feb 14, 2006
4,211
North Carolina
He's just abbreviating Purple KY jelly, a favorite Fresno pastime treat.

But Franky - you do know Water Wetter is RED! Buy 000's of gallons tomorrow, it will match the IPOD :rofl :rofl :willy :rofl :willy :thumbsup
 
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analogdesigner

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Nov 15, 2005
949
San Clemente, CA USA
Here is a review of some coolant additives, DEI, Redline, Justice Brothers and Hy-perlube. Anyone have any experience with any of the products. I know that some forum members use Redline Water Wetter. Anyone use any of the others?

http://www.turbomagazine.com/features/0703_turp_cooling_system_additives

.
BlackICE,

Thanks for the excellent link. I will have to post a large comment on all of this later on tonight.. Thanks, Jay
 

everetto

GT Owner
Sep 4, 2006
186
Desert Southwest
...But there are plenty of cars that do not overheat the cooling systems and still have heat soak that reduces power.

Quite true. We data logged my GT for several dyno sessions recently. For the first run of the first session, inlet air temp (IAT) was 72-74 degrees and timing at WOT was 18.25 and power was 704 RWHP. The 2nd run that day was 690 RWHP, down due to heat soak (sorry I don't have the IAT or timing for that run).

The next dyno session was a month later and it was a much hotter day. IAT was 96-98 degrees (22 degrees higher than the first session), timing was 16.75, and power was down to 683 RWHP. The 2nd run on this day was down to 661 RWHP due to heat soak (again I don't have IAT or timing for the 2nd run).

Anyway, the point is - even if your coolant system keeps your coolant temp "where you like it", your TUNE is taking away your power. You can play with the tune a bit, but the reduced timing (reduced power) is there for a reason - to protect the engine, so be careful.