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Tom, not necessary. They are not TTY. Clean and reuse the original ones and torque to spec. I have taken mine out several times to clean and lube the joints and replace the deteriorating boots.

GT@50: This has your name written on it!

Do-able if you have a short wife. ;)

I also am very interested in what happened to your piston. Failures in these engines are very rare.

Hachi san, That helps us understand context. At less than 5000 miles, there should not be any appreciable wear on any of the components (except possibly the rear tires!). I’ve been traveling, so it took me awhile to get back to this message.

Hachi, how many miles are on your Ford GT?

I recommend you do it the other way around: upgrade the suspension amd tires first, then add power. Otherwise you will have a harder time controlling it. You can search for my comments on Scott’s shocks—all positive—and my comments on setting them softer for street driving. I have about...

DOT 5.1 is even higher boiling point. Most FLAPS sell it. I bought the Pentosin sold by NAPA. Look on the label--higher boiling point is better. DOT3, DOT4, and DOT5.1 are all compatible. DO NOT use DOT5. It is silicone based and not miscible with the others.

Ditto, even though mine is a 1973. You can buy practically any part for 50 year old Porsches, even if you crunch every panel on the body.

Lots of mods. Very little of the original GT is left. different body exterior panels, different suspension, different engine (not supercharged) and trans, etc.

Two data points almost simultaneously. Let's see what others bring before we call it a comp. And will that extend to other colors? Ehh, I'm still driving mine. At 90K, it ain't ever gonna be a museum piece. Like my 1973 911, which has almost no rust damage, it doesn't have the original...

Screw it, I'm still gonna drive the wheels offa mine. Hope to hit 100K this year.

Any appropriate size nut and bolt will do. It is not a high-torque or high-vibration application.

Do you mean the 20+ year old original tires, or simply Goodyears that have been replaced at some point? If 20 year old original, you should change those. But first, go to a remote parking lot and do burnouts and doughnuts!

Ya can't outbid stupid money.

"Miata." You can wreck one every year and still be money ahead of almost anything else.

Yes, they were high quality internal construction, not like the cheapened versions that carry the same name today. Nevertheless, 16 years is extraordinary for a lead acid battery.

If your battery plates actually were sulfated, that's usually caused by sitting in a low charge state for an extended period. Sitting in a totally discharged state will sulfate them quickly.

Hell, I charge mine in the car through the cigar lighter socket. 90Kmi, and I'm not meticulous about keeping the charger plugged in. No problems. I got 16 years out of my original battery.

Hah, hah--nuclear waste decays, so after 20 years, it's less radioactive. Unlike, say, arsenic or gold