Tips on trailering and tie down points


Just use the straps thru the wheel spokes. Just use pieces from an old t-shirt to protect wheels from the straps. Tie down all four tight . no e-brake, no key in ignition, trans in neutral...
Just like StormCat I have used for all six Rallys ----works perfectly and very easy compared to any straps and 'baskets.'
andy (AJB)
 
+3 On Mac's

And they sell padded thru the wheel straps in addition to the cages. Made in North Idaho to boot. :thumbsup
 
I did the through the wheel for a bit, but converted my trailer to e-track, and now use the over the wheel strap (not a basket, just a 2" strap over each wheel with an idler, as the 3rd mount to the e-track). I find it easier. This company makes the idlers for Mac's, and others.

http://www.truckntow.com/pc-9866-147212-rolling-idler-e-fitting-assembly.aspx
 
Been using Macs for my race car. No issues. So +4 on Macs

THnx for letting me know that going through the wheel is an option. I wasnt sure if the reason Ford was telling us not to do it was related to wheel "finish" or if it was them being over-protective and OCD about stressing the Hub/spindle area.
 
just use an old bath towel on each wheel. This way there's lots of fabric to keep the day's brakedust off your straps. I also use a pair of sleeves off an old pair of coveralls to slip on each arm to stay clean while reaching through the wheel.
 
STORMCAT said:
car should be in neutral and no ebrake per the manual.
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Can anyone explain why this would be the case? It is too much stress on the components? Thanks!
 
MNJason said:
Can anyone explain why this would be the case? It is too much stress on the components? Thanks!
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I don't know about the ebrake, but the small movements back and forth may wear the gears out since the same teeth will be loaded without any benefit from lubrication they receive under normal use.
 
MNJason said:
Can anyone explain why this would be the case? It is too much stress on the components? Thanks!
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The constant back and forth stress is very substantial. The ebrake pads, caliper and caliper bracket could suffer some damage. The rotor could possibly incur some spot wear.
The concern in the transmission is not the gears. The reverse load can cause damage to the shifting forks. I recall someone reporting this happened to them and it is a costly fix.
 
So who thinks wheel tie-down is a no-no, even with towel padding?
 
I dont think anyone says its a "no-no", but there is an increased risk of scratches, and also the PITA associated with getting the towels in place inside and outside. I think everyone agrees the best, is the over the tire / baskets route, but the issue often times is, you have to have the trailer equippped to be able to do it. I did the through the wheel, for a bit, then converted my trailer and added front to back e-track, and now use over the tire.


REDEEMED said:
So who thinks wheel tie-down is a no-no, even with towel padding?
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Since the fenders inside my trailor prohibit the opening of the car doors when loaded inside the trailor, I fabricated two 10" high by 12" wide removable catwalks in the wheel path...one on each side of the trailor. This way, even the lowest car can open the door fully when the trailor side access door is open. In addition, it makes it very easy to run the straps thru the wheels both front and back. When I use the trailor for other projects (or for cleaning) I simply take the "ramps" out as they are only held in place by dowells that penetrate the floor by 2" or so. The weight of the ramps with or without the car loaded is enough to keep them in place.
 
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Cobraguy, interesting approach.
I have the same fender/door issue.....any way you can post pictures?
 
I have seen several people with the ramps to allow access to open the side door. In addition to the potential for movement, this also raises the Center-of-Gravity of the loaded trailer / Cargo. After shredding a trailer tire near Cheyenne Wyoming last year heading out to Salt Lake City, I was glad my C/G was as low as possible.
AJB (andy)
 
REDEEMED said:
So who thinks wheel tie-down is a no-no, even with towel padding?
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The load stress to the car is the same going thru the wheels or using wheel baskets or straps around the wheels. Ford recommends wheel baskets because that is what is common for commercial carriers and wheel damage is less of an issues. All Ford GT's where shipped to the dealers on semi's strapped this way.

Specracer said:
I dont think anyone says its a "no-no", but there is an increased risk of scratches, and also the PITA associated with getting the towels in place inside and outside. I think everyone agrees the best, is the over the tire / baskets route, but the issue often times is, you have to have the trailer equippped to be able to do it. I did the through the wheel, for a bit, then converted my trailer and added front to back e-track, and now use over the tire.
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I use strap pads that stay in place by themselves so I never struggle with that operation. No PITA factor with that .. :biggrin There are pictures of the pads in the link of the post I made earlier in this thread,,
 
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Specracer said:
I did the through the wheel for a bit, but converted my trailer to e-track, and now use the over the wheel strap (not a basket, just a 2" strap over each wheel with an idler, as the 3rd mount to the e-track). I find it easier. This company makes the idlers for Mac's, and others.

http://www.truckntow.com/pc-9866-147212-rolling-idler-e-fitting-assembly.aspx
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I have used this system for many years now in my trailer with no problems and it works great.

Chip
 
e-tracks?

I'm investigating trailer options but have never owned a car trailer. Please explain e-tracks... constantly mentioned but no description of how they work or advantages. Also is it mandatory that one purchase the 'wrong' trailer 1st and then learn from the mistake what you really wanted?? I will use it to trailer other unmentionables (V-car).
 
A couple pics are worth...well, you know:


http://www.keystonetrailers.com/acces/e-track.htm

That link shows all kinds, but, usually "e-track" refers to the floor mounted units used to secure the car.
 
So do you mount 2 e-tracks the length of the trailer? How do you secure them to the trailer?
 
jcthorne said:
So do you mount 2 e-tracks the length of the trailer?
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Yes.


jcthorne said:
How do you secure them to the trailer?
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According to one guru:

"It depends on how much load you will be applying to the track, what you are holding with it, and how the trailer frame is made. If you can get to the trailer frame, use nuts and bolts to attach through the floor and the metal trailer frame. If you are using it to secure an ATV or 4-wheeler, mount the track where the ATV tires will rest on it and the weight of the ATV will hold the track down. This way you would only need a handful of attachment points just to keep the track from sliding.

If you cannot access the trailer frame or only want to attach to the plywood floor, you could use 1/2 inch wood screws and put one in every other mount hole. Start installing screws in the center of the track and work your way to the ends to keep the track laying flush and not bending or buckling as you run screws down tight."


Myself, I'd put a screw in every darn screw hole provided...and would probably use a bolt every few feet as well.
 
I measured the track (width) of several cars, and avgeraged how wide the e-track should be, then I through bolted to every cross member, and then filled in leaving every 2 open holes with #14 3/4" screws into the plywood floor. Ran it all the way from front to back.
 
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