Trans Axle bolt question


Scooter

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Apr 15, 2009
168
I just picked up my new bolts from Ford today I know you guys have about 100 posts on this topic...my head was spinning trying to read them all.
Could you tell me the ft. lb. for tightening the bolts and if there are any tricks I should know for the install?

Thanks!
 
Your Ford Dealer has access to the complete installation instructions online. They are very thorough and well illustrated. Just have him print out a copy for you. He should be able to call it up under the recall number. My parts man was happy to do it.
 
I thought the TransAxle was only and issue in the 2005 FGTs. Dont you own a 2006?
 
I just picked up my new bolts from Ford today I know you guys have about 100 posts on this topic...my head was spinning trying to read them all.
Could you tell me the ft. lb. for tightening the bolts and if there are any tricks I should know for the install?

I seem to recall the torque specs being between 15 & 20 lbs for the 1/2 shaft bolts themselves. But, wunna the guys who wrench these cars regularly will chime in here eventually & give you gospel.

Wunna the "tricks" I recall was to use a loooooong extention to tighten the bolts so that the wrench has a clear arc to move in.



I thought the TransAxle was only and issue in the 2005 FGTs. Dont you own a 2006?

All GTs need the 'bolts replaced, sir. :wink :cheers
 
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I thought the TransAxle was only and issue in the 2005 FGTs. Dont you own a 2006?


EP is correct, all FGT's need the replacement. There were failures even in mid-late 2006 production as well.
 
Is there any way you can determine if the bolts has been changed - any way to tell the new bolts from the old ones without removing them?


:cheers
Anders
 
Anders, it is not so much a difference in the bolts that you can see, but with the washers. The replacement Ford washers are like 2 to 3 times thicker that the stock 1/8" (estimate) washer.

John
 
To add to what John stated, IF the origional bolts were replaced with ACCUFAB's, the washers would look like the origional Fords!

If I remember correctly, there IS a visual difference between the heads on the 'FABs and those on the Fords, but, I'll be darned if I can remember what the heck it is.
 
Is there any way you can determine if the bolts has been changed - any way to tell the new bolts from the old ones without removing them?


:cheers
Anders


Any Ford dealer should be able to input your VIN # into their 'peuter and determine whether your bolts were replaced BY A FORD DEALER. Customer Satisfaction Program 07B49 is the one under which the bolts were replaced.

If an independent did a replacement there'd be no record.

If you're the car's 2nd (or later) owner, I'd simply call the previous owner(s) and ask if he (they) had it done. :wink :cheers
 
I'm pretty sure I remember the discussion at Rally II (I think it was Rally II) that some of the bolts were brittle due to some manufacturing issues by a subcontractor. Soft Washers were another concern.
 
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I will try to address all of the questions posed in this thread:

1. How do I tell if the car has the replacement already done by inspecting the outer (6) flange bolts?

The Ford dealer will have a record minimally of the bolt kit being issued to that VIN and may also show that a dealership has installed the kit. (I have the former case because i picked up the kit but opted to install it myself.)

To determine visually, look at the outer 6 bolts around the output shaft flange. If these bolts are black 12-pt headed bolts, the car has the Accufab kit installed and no more work is necessary.

If the bolts are the silver OEM TORX bolts, then you need to look for evidence that the torque marks (typically white) are mis-aligned or there is a second set of marks. This is evidence that the bolts have been removed/replaced. The kits from Ford used the same bolts as the car left the factory with. If there is NO evidence from the torque markings that the bolts have been removed, then the update should be performed.

BUT, just because the torque marks are not aligned... it doesn't mean that the car received the RIGHT and latest Ford update kit. Before the final kit, Ford made a fix-kit available that updated the hardness of the inner washer and unknowingly included two inner-bolts from the same batch of bolts that eventually proved to have a percentage of them bad.

In summary, Accufab-equipped cars (12-pt black outer bolts) can be easily differentiated as being updated. Cars with NO evidence or the torque slashes being mis-aligned/changed can be differentiated as never have been opened and are NOT updated. Cars that have silver, OEM TORX outer bolts but with torque slashes mis-aligned, have been opened up... but it cannot be concluded WHICH kit was installed.

OK, so you may decide to go to the next step and remove the 6 outer bolts and take a peek at the inner bolts and washer and see if the update has been performed. I will tell you how. Before starting down this path, please know that Ford recommends discarding the 6 outer bolts if they are removed in favor of installing new bolts since these are all TTY (torque to yield) bolts.

2. How do I tell if the car has the updated axle bolt fix by removing the 6 outer bolts and inspecting the inner bolts/washer?

a. If the car has allen bolts, the car has neither the final Ford nor Accufab update. The Ford or the Accufab update kit needs to be installed.

b. If the car has had 10mm hex headed bolts that are recessed into a black washer with the head of the bolt approximately flush with the surface of the washer, you have the latest (good) Ford fix kit.

c. If the car has silver-colored 12-pt bolt heads, the car has the Accufab inner bolts and is fine. (It would be admittedly weird to see these Accufab inner bolts without the Accufab 12-pt outer bolts.)

Summary: If you see allen-bolts - REGARDLESS of what washer you see, you need to do the update. FIXED cars will have either 12-pt, 10mm silver-colored bolts sitting on top of a black washer (Accufab), or 10mm hex-head bolts recessed into a black washer (final FORD kit). If you have something other than one of these two configurations, you need to do an update.

3. What are the proper torque specs?

a. Ford Kit:

Use blue Loctite and tighten INNER bolts in a 2-stage process.

Stage 1: Tighten to 15 lb-ft (each of two bolts)
Stage 2: Tighten to 22 lb-ft (each of two bolts)

Ford Outer Bolts:

Stage 1: Alternately tighten bolts to 30 lb-ft (each of 6 bolts)
Stage 2: Loosen bolts (1) full turn one at a time. Tighten to 21 lb-ft, then tighten an additional 90 degrees (1/4 turn).

b. Accufab Kit

Use blue Loctite and tighten INNER bolts to 24-27 lb-ft

Accufab Outer Bolts:

Stage 1: Lightly oil bolts and tighten bolts equally until snug
Stage 2: Alternately tighten bolts (using a star pattern) to 30 lb-ft (each of 6 bolts)
Stage 2: Alternately tighten bolts (using a star pattern) to 50-55 lb-ft (each of 6 bolts)

Finally, if you have any signs of excessive transaxle fluid inside of the coupler flange, you should perform the 05-10-13 TSB to correct the condition.
 
I'm pretty sure I remember the discussion at Rally II (I think it was Rally II) that some of the bolts were brittle due to some manufacturing issues by a subcontractor.


It was an issue with the alloy itself. It had something to do with some kind of internal chemical/electrolysis process that, over time, ended up destroying the integ. of the bolts.
 
I will try to address all of the questions posed in this thread:

1. How do I tell if the car has the replacement already done by inspecting the outer (6) flange bolts?

The Ford dealer will have a record minimally of the bolt kit being issued to that VIN and may also show that a dealership has installed the kit. (I have the former case because i picked up the kit but opted to install it myself.)

To determine visually, look at the outer 6 bolts around the output shaft flange. If these bolts are black 12-pt headed bolts, the car has the Accufab kit installed and no more work is necessary.

If the bolts are the silver OEM TORX bolts, then you need to look for evidence that the torque marks (typically white) are mis-aligned or there is a second set of marks. This is evidence that the bolts have been removed/replaced. The kits from Ford used the same bolts as the car left the factory with. If there is NO evidence from the torque markings that the bolts have been removed, then the update should be performed.

BUT, just because the torque marks are not aligned... it doesn't mean that the car received the RIGHT and latest Ford update kit. Before the final kit, Ford made a fix-kit available that updated the hardness of the inner washer and unknowingly included two inner-bolts from the same batch of bolts that eventually proved to have a percentage of them bad.

In summary, Accufab-equipped cars (12-pt black outer bolts) can be easily differentiated as being updated. Cars with NO evidence or the torque slashes being mis-aligned/changed can be differentiated as never have been opened and are NOT updated. Cars that have silver, OEM TORX outer bolts but with torque slashes mis-aligned, have been opened up... but it cannot be concluded WHICH kit was installed.

OK, so you may decide to go to the next step and remove the 6 outer bolts and take a peek at the inner bolts and washer and see if the update has been performed. I will tell you how. Before starting down this path, please know that Ford recommends discarding the 6 outer bolts if they are removed in favor of installing new bolts since these are all TTY (torque to yield) bolts.

2. How do I tell if the car has the updated axle bolt fix by removing the 6 outer bolts and inspecting the inner bolts/washer?

a. If the car has allen bolts, the car has neither the final Ford nor Accufab update. The Ford or the Accufab update kit needs to be installed.

b. If the car has had 10mm hex headed bolts that are recessed into a black washer with the head of the bolt approximately flush with the surface of the washer, you have the latest (good) Ford fix kit.

c. If the car has silver-colored 12-pt bolt heads, the car has the Accufab inner bolts and is fine. (It would be admittedly weird to see these Accufab inner bolts without the Accufab 12-pt outer bolts.)

Summary: If you see allen-bolts - REGARDLESS of what washer you see, you need to do the update. FIXED cars will have either 12-pt, 10mm silver-colored bolts sitting on top of a black washer (Accufab), or 10mm hex-head bolts recessed into a black washer (final FORD kit). If you have something other than one of these two configurations, you need to do an update.

3. What are the proper torque specs?

a. Ford Kit:

Use blue Loctite and tighten INNER bolts in a 2-stage process.

Stage 1: Tighten to 15 lb-ft (each of two bolts)
Stage 2: Tighten to 22 lb-ft (each of two bolts)

Ford Outer Bolts:

Stage 1: Alternately tighten bolts to 30 lb-ft (each of 6 bolts)
Stage 2: Loosen bolts (1) full turn one at a time. Tighten to 21 lb-ft, then tighten an additional 90 degrees (1/4 turn).

b. Accufab Kit

Use blue Loctite and tighten INNER bolts to 24-27 lb-ft

Accufab Outer Bolts:

Stage 1: Lightly oil bolts and tighten bolts equally until snug
Stage 2: Alternately tighten bolts (using a star pattern) to 30 lb-ft (each of 6 bolts)
Stage 2: Alternately tighten bolts (using a star pattern) to 50-55 lb-ft (each of 6 bolts)

Finally, if you have any signs of excessive transaxle fluid inside of the coupler flange, you should perform the 05-10-13 TSB to correct the condition.


Thank you this is very helpful!
 
Do you have a rough timeline as to when the Final Ford Kit was made available?

Was that available at the time of the official Ford Recall Program?

I had my dealership perform a replacement around 12/28/07.
 
Wunna the "tricks" I recall was to use a loooooong extention to tighten the bolts so that the wrench has a clear arc to move in.

I know this is an old thread. Just a reminder, extensions multiply torque. There are calculations that will determine your true torque value for a given extension length.

.
 
My replacement bolts failed on March 27, 2010.

Updated info here, post #67:

http://www.fordgtforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14182&page=7
 
I just picked up my new bolts from Ford today I know you guys have about 100 posts on this topic...my head was spinning trying to read them all.
Could you tell me the ft. lb. for tightening the bolts and if there are any tricks I should know for the install?

Thanks!


After seeing both kits if I had to start new I would use the new ford extra thick counter sunk washers with the Accufab/ APR bolts. The APR bolts have a non threaded shoulder which is where the strength is needed. The Ford bolts are threaded all the way to the head which removes critical mass and strength.