Need help...battery, tail light

[RADGT]

Thought I had my GT hooked up to a battery tender but neer checked the flashing light to indicate I was not connected. Anyway battery dead. Grabbed another tender cuz the one I had just did not seem correct even when hooked properly. With the other tender connected it seems to be charing or at least the light on the tender is red indicating charging. Once connected, I pushed the door unlock button and the right rear tail light came on and will not go off. Was able to get in the car with a key but am confused about why just one tail light came on and won't go off. Any ideas. Maybe at least till the battery is charged I should unhook it so the tail light will not burn out.

Stu

 

[Not 4N]

Hook it up to a regular automatic charger that starts at 10 amps and works it's way down as the battery charges. Tenders are more of a maintainer and the battery needs a good "shot" to bring it back. If you hook up a regular charger the taillight should go out as there will be enough power.
:cheers
Trent

 

[BlackICE]

LED lights will last a long time. I would be more concerned with the current draw of the light being more than the Battery Tender is putting out. I would hook a larger charger up, maybe a 5 to 10 amp unit.

 

[RADGT]

Thanks for advice. I do not have a larger charger so in the meantime, unhooked the battery to get the tail light to go out and will try the tender overnight to see if it comes back to life. Stu

 

[Kingman]

I believe you are all incorrect. I experienced the very same symptoms. Your problem is the "old ground strap attached to the frame trick!" (That's my best attempt at channeling Maxwell Smart).

Disconnect the short ground strap lead where it attaches to the frame (the one from the battery) and sand off a little bit of the paint. Re-attache battery....

You should be all set.

Your battery probably is still fully charged.

 

[Not 4N]

Your battery probably is still fully charged.

Stu did you check the battery for power, try to start etc?

 

[RADGT]

I did try and start it but nothing. Headlights also did not work. Forgot to mention one other symptom in that the interior chime would not shut off as if their was a key in the ignition and the door was open. Let it charge overnight and see what the dawn of a new day brings.

 

[Kingman]

I experienced all of the above symptoms. It baffled me for a bit until I chatted with the GTGuys and Shadowman.

My car appeared to have a dead battery, but one tailight would stay on even with the key and lights turned off. There were other anomolies, though I can't remember them now.

I could only stop this by disconnecting the battery and re-attaching. I could then start the car (still not underestanding what the problem was).....I guess I got just enough juice. Though the next time I stopped the car, the symptoms would re-appear. I can't remember if I experienced problems while driving...though I think I did.

everything has run perfect since I sanded off just enough paint on the frame to see bare metal.

Same thing happened to a few folks during Rally II in Newport.

 

[Kingman]

Have you fixed your problem?

 

[Shadowman]

Thought I had my GT hooked up to a battery tender but neer checked the flashing light to indicate I was not connected. Anyway battery dead. Grabbed another tender cuz the one I had just did not seem correct even when hooked properly. With the other tender connected it seems to be charing or at least the light on the tender is red indicating charging. Once connected, I pushed the door unlock button and the right rear tail light came on and will not go off. Was able to get in the car with a key but am confused about why just one tail light came on and won't go off. Any ideas. Maybe at least till the battery is charged I should unhook it so the tail light will not burn out.

Stu

Stu

When the battery is dead using the Battery Tender or the OEM trickle charger will take at leat 24 hours to bring the battery back normal life.

After having the charger on for a short period of time and then your commanding an electrical operation you confused the system because the system did not have enough juice to follow your desired command.

I have had this happen; or I should say had it happen (exact scenario) and have learned my lesson.

BTW; do NOT use a higher amperage charger or sure death to the battery will result. These batteries like a slow methodically charge and then will live a very long time.

Takes care

Shadowman

 

[Not 4N]

BTW; do NOT use a higher amperage charger or sure death to the battery will result. These batteries like a slow methodically charge and then will live a very long time.

Takes care

Shadowman

Here is the charging info from Optima's site. No problem to use 10amp charger it just needs to be automatic so it reduces the amps as the battery charges and shuts off when charged.


OPTIMA REDTOP CHARGING INFORMATION
OPTIMA RedTop Charging Information
The following charging methods are recommended to insure a long battery life - always use a voltage-regulated charger, with voltage limits set as described below.

RedTop Type: 34 & 34R - 34/78 - 78 - 6V - 25 & 35 - 75/25
These batteries are designed for engine starting applications. They are NOT recommended or warranted for use in deep cycle applications.

Recommended charging information:
Alternator:
13.3 to 15.0 volts, no amperage limit.

Battery Charger:
13.8 to 15.0 volts, 10 amps maximum, 6-12 hours approximate.

Rapid Recharge:
Maximum voltage 15.6 volts (regulated), no current limit as long as battery temperature remains below 125°F (51.7°C). Charge until current drops below 1 amp.

Float Charge:
13.2 to 13.8 volts, 1 amp maximum current, time indefinite (at lower voltage).

All limits must be strictly adhered to.

Safety Information:
Always wear safety glasses when working with batteries.
Always use a voltage regulated battery charger with limits set to the above ratings. Overcharging can cause the safety valves to open and battery gasses to escape, resulting in premature failure. These gasses are flammable! You cannot replace water in sealed batteries that have been overcharged. Any battery that becomes very hot or makes a hissing sound while recharging should be disconnected immediately.
Failure to fully charge a battery can result in poor performance and a reduction in capacity

 

[Shadowman]

Here is the charging info from Optima's site. No problem to use 10amp charger it just needs to be automatic so it reduces the amps as the battery charges and shuts off when charged.


OPTIMA REDTOP CHARGING INFORMATION
OPTIMA RedTop Charging Information
The following charging methods are recommended to insure a long battery life - always use a voltage-regulated charger, with voltage limits set as described below.

RedTop Type: 34 & 34R - 34/78 - 78 - 6V - 25 & 35 - 75/25
These batteries are designed for engine starting applications. They are NOT recommended or warranted for use in deep cycle applications.

Recommended charging information:
Alternator:
13.3 to 15.0 volts, no amperage limit.

Battery Charger:
13.8 to 15.0 volts, 10 amps maximum, 6-12 hours approximate.

Rapid Recharge:
Maximum voltage 15.6 volts (regulated), no current limit as long as battery temperature remains below 125°F (51.7°C). Charge until current drops below 1 amp.

Float Charge:
13.2 to 13.8 volts, 1 amp maximum current, time indefinite (at lower voltage).

All limits must be strictly adhered to.

Safety Information:
Always wear safety glasses when working with batteries.
Always use a voltage regulated battery charger with limits set to the above ratings. Overcharging can cause the safety valves to open and battery gasses to escape, resulting in premature failure. These gasses are flammable! You cannot replace water in sealed batteries that have been overcharged. Any battery that becomes very hot or makes a hissing sound while recharging should be disconnected immediately.
Failure to fully charge a battery can result in poor performance and a reduction in capacity

Great information; thank you

All the best

Shadowman

 

[RADGT]

Thanks for all the information everyone. Went out and bought a 10 amp charger but could not get one that automatically decreases amp so I charged it until it read 100% all the while sitting patiently in a chair reading and checking from time to time. As soon as it hit 100%, switched it back over to the battery tender. Started right up. As always no matter how simple the problem, I know I'll always get good advice from the GT gang.

Stu