I have read about the oil change procedure here and am so fortunate to have this great site for information. I will be sure and tell them about the priming procedure and my two questions are....(1) Are there only 3 drain plugs? (2) What is the Motorcraft part number for the correct filter? I believe the owner's manual says an FL2023, but when I called they said it had been superceded with a 2024. Is this correct. Many thanks guys (and gals).
Doing first oil change soon...please advise
- Thread starter Nardo GT
- Start date
Two drain plugs on the cast "pan", one on the oil reservoir - 3 total.
Filter:
4G7Z-6731-AC or Motorcraft(FL2024)
Oil: Full synthetic
XO-5W50-QGT or WSS-M2C931-A spec oil
Ask if you can watch. Make sure they don't accidentally lift the car incorrectly and damage parts.
Filter:
4G7Z-6731-AC or Motorcraft(FL2024)
Oil: Full synthetic
XO-5W50-QGT or WSS-M2C931-A spec oil
Ask if you can watch. Make sure they don't accidentally lift the car incorrectly and damage parts.
B O N Y
MODERATOR & FGT OWNER
Prowler said:
Make sure the dealer knows how to prime the system.... crank the engine with the throttle to the floor for 20 seconds before allowing it to fire... ditto Kendall on the lift
Red Rocket
GT Owner
Just FYI I did my first oil change at 366 miles and the second at 1200. It's a proven fact that changing the oil in the early life of the engine greatly enhances its longevity and performance. VERY cheap insurance esp. if you drive it properly (i.e. get 'er on full boost regularly and redline it!).
Also, just to show you the kind of TLC my local Ford dealer chief mechanic has for the car, he took all the floor pans off with hand tools just to be safe. And he charged me 1 hour labor though it took him 3 hours because he was learning how to do it off his p.c. linked to the manual online to Ford. Come to think of it I owe the guy a bottle of likker.
p.s. new car engines have chromoly rings, so the harder you drive the engine on a new performance car, the free-er it will be and you'll get better power. My experience is that you need to 'stretch' the motor parts in the first 2000 miles by running it up to the redline. You don't want to baby it too much in the early going or you'll build up a carbon ridge at the top of the cylinders. I made this mistake on a Ferrari I had - baby'd the engine when I was breaking it in and it revved tight; while my buddy in an identical car who red-lined his from Day 1 had much better performance and a better revving motor. Just don't go crazy. The rings do need some time to seat, but basically with chromoly rings they are honing the cylinders to fit them. As opposed to the old school where the cyclinders walls were cross-hatched to file down the rings to fit the cylinders. Brother, the GT has one stout engine! I love it.
Also, just to show you the kind of TLC my local Ford dealer chief mechanic has for the car, he took all the floor pans off with hand tools just to be safe. And he charged me 1 hour labor though it took him 3 hours because he was learning how to do it off his p.c. linked to the manual online to Ford. Come to think of it I owe the guy a bottle of likker.
p.s. new car engines have chromoly rings, so the harder you drive the engine on a new performance car, the free-er it will be and you'll get better power. My experience is that you need to 'stretch' the motor parts in the first 2000 miles by running it up to the redline. You don't want to baby it too much in the early going or you'll build up a carbon ridge at the top of the cylinders. I made this mistake on a Ferrari I had - baby'd the engine when I was breaking it in and it revved tight; while my buddy in an identical car who red-lined his from Day 1 had much better performance and a better revving motor. Just don't go crazy. The rings do need some time to seat, but basically with chromoly rings they are honing the cylinders to fit them. As opposed to the old school where the cyclinders walls were cross-hatched to file down the rings to fit the cylinders. Brother, the GT has one stout engine! I love it.
Last edited:
SYCO GT
GT Owner
B O N Y
MODERATOR & FGT OWNER
SYCO GT said:
not a benefit, a must do, unless you want critical parts to have metal to metal contact without 'the benefit' of lubrication. a prime is s.o.p on all dry sump engines. I hope that all Ford dealers doing oil changes understand this is a mandatory task and not optional. good luck :wink
SYCO GT
GT Owner
bony said:
Thanks. I might do the oil change myself, or with the help of a forum member, so I wanted to be sure I do it right.