Hose support SS springs

Now you can make that tee-time, in time, for sure.

Midnite Blu said:

John at Accufab has installed the stainless springs in the radiator hoses on Midnight Blue and Heritage too....With the trans cooler, breather, bellows stiffener, halon system, hardwired charging system, splash guards, lug nuts, Accufab tune, plus Xpipe on M.B. you now have all the needed mods for the stock Ford GT..........? :thumbsup

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George,
Is the draining , filling and bleeding the system a major operation?

I thought a video was to be posted. Is there any data/photos/video demonstrating the failure that is supposed to be remedied? It would be really nice if this was the magic bullet that killed the track overheating problems.

Craig

Craig said:

I thought a video was to be posted. Is there any data/photos/video demonstrating the failure that is supposed to be remedied? It would be really nice if this was the magic bullet that killed the track overheating problems.

Craig

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I second the video request....

track test

I have the Accufab hoses & will have them installed for my next open track at T-hill on Oct 5. I'll give all a real life test report on temps afterwards.

Ed

Please post pics

I would like to get blue hoses like Rousch is installing in the UK

The manual outlines the drain and bleed process. Drain is not a big deal, but bleed is time consuming. It also lists the use of a special tool (radkitplus 078-00497)as an option. Alex from T&A mentioned the device at the rally as being a way to do it as well. Please don't quote me here, but it sounded like you would use vacuum to draw the fluid back through the system from the bleed location. Making the process go a little faster. Below is the device I think he was speaking of. Manual section 303-03A-17 with kit, -18 without kit. FYI the manual just tells you to follow the mfg. instructions when using the kit. -18 walks you through doing it without.

Snap On $208 paste link ino browser

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...=12500&supersede=&store=snapon-store&tool=all

There is an extra radiator drain cock mounted at the top left portion of the radiator for this purpose. The pic is looking through the screen at the drivers top left. You open the valve as you fill to left air escape from the front and run a clear line so you can see the air come out. Kinda like bleeding the brakes. You can see the front hose at the passenger lower right front. I don't think you can see the rear unless the pans are off. See pic below of the brass bleeder ( radiator drain cock ).

Craig said:

I thought a video was to be posted. Is there any data/photos/video demonstrating the failure that is supposed to be remedied? It would be really nice if this was the magic bullet that killed the track overheating problems.

Craig

Click to expand...

I hate jumping in .... in the middle of a thread... especially because I don't TRACK my car... but this is the remedy straight outta Tom Riechinbachs' mouth (sorry about the spelling Tom)
You need to remove the air conditioning condensor that sits right infront of the radiator.

ED SIMS SIR... You know my buddy who caught on fire at Buttonwillow.... this was his major problem 1 1/2 years ago... when he found out that I was going to RALLY I he asked me to find out the "remedy" Well, Tom said that was it...

It was cool because then we went to SALEEN to see the production and I must of spent an hour with the bay that installs this unit... they dun show'd'd me where the condensor is and how to remove it .. yada yada yada...... I past this info on to my buddy and WALA..... Over heating issues pretty much gone from my understanding..

Hope this helps...

My car ran well above the 200* range at the rally. The weather was hot and this is probably the hardest I ran the car for any length of time. I'm sure that the system has the capacity to handle the thermal load but if the hoses are restricting the flow than the system is not functioning as designed. This sounds like cheap insurance to insure proper water flow..

I too have the hose springs on the way to me and a date with my local GT tech for install on Thursday. Ran into temps in the 230 and higher zone at Sebring sev wks ago. Next date with Sebring will be 10/6 and I will know then.

tmstunts#1233 said:

You need to remove the air conditioning condensor that sits right infront of the radiator.

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Wouldn't turning off the AC reduce the heat generated there? ...or is he suggesting that the AC coil is reducing air flow thru the radiator?

Fubar said:

Wouldn't turning off the AC reduce the heat generated there? ...or is he suggesting that the AC coil is reducing air flow thru the radiator?

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Fu,

The later is correct!

The guys I spoke to at the rally, had no idea the hoses were sucking shut at high RPM. It is not something you can see in normal testing. Notes taken.

It would have to be seen on an engine dyno or specifically looking for it when the hoses were hot and you were on a rack with everything off. Reving the motor to max rpm just like going through the gears at a track. This would be something like 13 red line pulls to equal one hot lap on a 9 turn track like Willow. Now we know the first session the car runs good. Well, multiply 13 pulls X just 10 laps and you have 130 red line pulls in less than 20 mins.

Now all the hoses are hot and heat soaked (softer ). Next session do it all over again, you are up to 260 pulls. That is where most folks have reported it starts getting to hot to handle.

It is pretty easy to see how this may have never been seen as a potential problem. Nor would it have been easy to see.

In the SAE paper " Keeping your cool at 200mph" it states the need for X amount of airflow to get rid of the heat. Unfortunately the front nose opening would need to be about double it's current size to be perfect. Tom is right, the condenser is a restriction. But, track testing based on how I read the SAE paper fell a bit short of the design calcs. The paper lists some changes that improved conditions over early prototypes as well as some things that did not.

A few quotes from the paper regarding early testing and progress:

"With each successive lap of the track, it was observed that the engine coolant temp increased and was heading toward a failure. The root cause for the impending failure was inadequate airflow to balance the coolant loads"

Performance target chart:

Coolant 245 deg at 110 deg ambient = max allowable
Engine oil outlet 300 deg at 110 deg ambient = max allowable
Combustion air 200 deg at 110 deg ambient = max allowable

"The cooling module supplier was contacted to investigate methods of reducing the airside pressure drops and to re-evaluate the heat transfer impact on the cooling module performance with these changes"

"Air handing LTR design revisions improved airflow sufficently to meet the test target- continuous operation on the DPG handling track without overheating. The results are shown below" Fig 27....Fig 27 is a graph that shows during testing on 7-8-03 dearborn. The engine temps ran in the 227-228 range at the end of the test. Anyone know the ambient temp on 7-8-03?. I would think is was pretty high this time of year.

Conclusion:
"Accurate definition of customer drive cycles made possible thermal systems designs that provide predictable thermal control of the air, oil and water under all anticipated driving conditions"

I do believe additional air flow will help a bunch. I do not know if the springs will solve the heating problem, but they will solve the colapsing problem. I do find it interesting that the track tests were not as good as the design predicted. That gives me some hope that the springs may do the trick well enough that you don't have to ditch the AC to run the car on a track once in awhile.

nice analysis Cobrar1339.

excellent info! thanks!