Boost a Pump Installation Procedures for a GT?

[Waldo]

I finally got around to ordering a Kenne Bell Boost a Pump to compliment the 4.0 liter Whipple on my GT. The closest instructions Kenne Bell has for a Ford GT are for a GT-500. In other words, the instructions are helpful for explaining the theory of the installation on a GT but not the actual installation.

Can anybody offer up a few pictures or bits of advice as to where to mount the unit, splice into the fuel pump wires, and the best way to route the pressure switch wires? Any assistance would be appreciated.

Best Regards,
Waldo

[roketman]

Waldo,
I would email or call the Gt guys or Shelby.

[BlackICE]

I would contact Torrie as he has the most real life experience installing, tuning and using the BAP on his own car. The installation is pretty strait forward with the mounting of the device the hardest in my case, a custom bracket. After it is installed to get the most out of it you will need a modified tune from Torrie or another tuner that is familiar with the product. I am still tuning mine and have some fine adjustments to make before I will be happy.

IMO it is best to install the BAP in between the power feed from the fuel pump relays to the fuel pump driver module and to have it always on (do not use the pressure switch). Also since I know of at lease two failure of the stock fuel pump relays (rated at 15 amps) I choose to have the OEM circuit flip on two additional 40 amp relays using 12g wire instead of the 14g used in the OEM wiring harness. The new relays are fed from a 60amp fuse 8g wire from the battery. The dual BAP is fuse at 30 amps and draws in excess of 20 amps per channel!

[BlackICE]

The pink/blk and brown/pink 14g wires need to be cut and the BAP inserted in between this point. IMO the beauty installing here is the trouble shooting and maintenance is much easier since you just have to remove the trunk liner vs. the typical mounting location under the passenger side fender liner.

[Waldo]

Black Ice,

Thanks for the tips and the pictures. That's a very cool installation.

I've got a couple of quick questions for you:

To eliminate the pressure switch, do you simply connect the red and the black wires that would normally be connected to the pressure switch?

Is there any downside to continually running the fuel pumps with 17.5 volts?

Best Regards,
Waldo

[BlackICE]

Black Ice,

Thanks for the tips and the pictures. That's a very cool installation.

I've got a couple of quick questions for you:

To eliminate the pressure switch, do you simply connect the red and the black wires that would normally be connected to the pressure switch?

Is there any downside to continually running the fuel pumps with 17.5 volts?

Best Regards,
Waldo

Yes, I just cut and connected the two wires together and stuffed them back into the BAP case. I hope running 100% of the time isn't bad, because I am using the comp 20V system. My main concern was not the pumps, but the FPDM electronics being overdriven to 20v in my case. Many ICs are spec to run at 18v max; however I felt much better after conversing with Torrie since he is also using a 20V BAP wired always on as well and has over 30K on it without issues. YMMV

Using the switch and having the voltage jumping around would only confuse the ECU when it is also trying to control the pump voltage.

[Ed Sims]

Shadowman is installing my BAP as we speak so it'll be ready to try out at the GT Speed Day.

Ed

[BlackICE]

Shadowman is installing my BAP as we speak so it'll be ready to try out at the GT Speed Day.

Ed

Maybe he will post some pictures of the BAP with the hand model.

[Waldo]

Maybe he will post some pictures of the BAP with the hand model.

Oh, good call. I'll check out his website to see if he's posted any pictures there.

[2112]

Forgive the ignorance here , The BAP is a totally electronic feature or is there a physical pumping mechanism being added as well?